Painting Flush Doors with Waterbased Gloss

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Having difficulty getting a good finish using WB gloss (Leyland Trade Acrylic Gloss - pink tin) on flush doors. I've done the skirtings, architrave and 250mm deep window ledges with the stuff all quite nicely, what good paint I thought, but now it comes to the doors it is Hell! What is the trick??

All bare wood or MDF, primed and undercoated with WB undercoat, multiple coats sanding between them. Doors laid flat with all hardware removed and looking good. On with the gloss - initially using a 2" brush (B&Q basic synthetic) as used on the rest, but couldn't get the paint on fast enough to lay off before it was too dry. The result was a right mess. Then tried a sponge mini roller but the result didn't look glossy. Sand down and start again this time using an old 4" bristle brush (used to do emulsioning), slapped on the gloss but lots of brush marks and small air bubbles that dry like craters. Attempt to lay off and remove the bubbles was disaster.

I have 4 flush doors to do. I figure I need the right brush and work quicker unless there is something else I can do that will help. What size brush is best? Advice please, how best to apply the paint I have?
 
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Its not easy but there's a couple of things you could try. A good synthetic brush is important, purdy, corona and picasso are all good. You could also try a latex extender such as xim or floetrol. Damp down the doors with a rag and damp the brush as well. Put the paint on lay it off once and do not try and touch up, work in smaller sections.
I don't know what the leyland stuff is like but i've always considered it a budget brand, johnstones aqua gloss is about the best of an average bunch.
 
Thanks dcdec.
A good synthetic brush is important, purdy, corona and picasso are all good.
What size would you recommend? I am tempted by 5" to get the paint on fast but perhaps they will be too big to lay off nicely?

You could also try a latex extender such as xim or floetrol.
Do they effect the whiteness?

Damp down the doors with a rag and damp the brush as well. Put the paint on lay it off once and do not try and touch up, work in smaller sections.
Will do.

I don't know what the leyland stuff is like but i've always considered it a budget brand, johnstones aqua gloss is about the best of an average bunch.
Yes, working on a budget, but so far the Leyland has been easy to work with just the flush doors where I have come unstuck. I will use up what I have, the many repeats are eating through it, and if the results are still naff I'll try the aqua.
 
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I normally use a 3", 5" would be a bit big i think but it does come down to what you're comfortable with.
The extender won't effect whiteness but floetrol can make the paint go stringy, so only decant (into kettle) enough paint for half hour or so's use at a time.
Shame about xim, i guess dec's and diyers are just giving up on WB paints because of the difficulties.
 
I have purchased a decent 3" synthetic brush, will see what I can do with that all all the other tips tomorrow and report back.

Have not been able to source any extender, neither Floetrol nor xmin, in West Cornwall, any suggestions for where I can get it? Meanwhile wondering about simply diluting with water, may mean more coats but that is OK as long as the stuff flows a bit. Is water a bad idea?

It also seems that Leyland have discontinued or rebranded the paint I am using. Thier only WB gloss is now called "quick drying" and in a lime green tin rather than a pink one, but the tech data is all the same. I figure they have turned a possible complaint (it drys so dam fast) into a sales point. I would not have chosen a quick dry product, slow amature that I am! Oh well at least it explains the trouble I am having with the doors. See how good a finish I can get with quick paint - it has become a challenge (until I get to the bottom of the can at least). Bit worried that a different brand of paint on the doors will look different from the frames etc. I have already done.
 
Loving my new brush, but adding water was a bad idea the paint formed stringy lumps that I only noticed once I started putting the paint on. :cry:

Note to those who may try this: adding water to a quick drying water based non-stir gloss paint is a disaster. I guess that it is thixotropic, although I had not considered the lack of stiring before, and it does not exactly dilute with water. I presume that Floetrol may not work either

So more sanding (again) once the lumpy mess has dried. Then I will try the neat paint with my new brush. I was delighted to find I still had a good touch with the brush with flowing paint, despite lumps. Slapped the rest of the mix on a top shelf of a cupboard where the lumps don't matter - wasn't going to paint it.
 
Finally beaten, just could not get a good finish on flush doors with Leyland Trade Acrylic Gloss despite trying everything suggested (except the Floetrol that I could not source). As a non-stir (gell like) water based paint it would not stay wet enough or flow enough for large surfaces.

Went out and got some Jonstones Trade Aqua WB Gloss as advised. A lovely runny paint, ah bliss. Went on the door much easier, although I was still quick, and looks promising. Perhaps I was too much a rush to begin with - over stessed from all the failures - but the door developed tiny bubbbles after laying off. I risked a final light brush over and that fixed it. Anyone know what the tiny bubbles were caused by?
 

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