I want to paint some older "antique" furniture using a technique I saw in Martha Stewart Mag. from 2 years ago. Using black paint, rather than the usual white to redo furniture, the items redone in the mag looked great-. Although to get an ebonized look, oil based paint was used with paint thinner and linseed. Is there an interior oil paint or just exterior adn what would be the best sheen, glossy or mat. The black paint chips I picked up looked weird- either too gray or to "purple". I would like a very dark brownish grey, but am not sure what brand, type etc,. to use as nothing was listed. I thought if anyone was a paint expert or has painted furniture before, may have some advice.
Painting furniture
- Thread starter TALLEJ01
- Start date
I want to paint some older "antique" furniture using a technique I saw in Martha Stewart Mag. from 2 years ago. Using black paint, rather than the usual white to redo furniture, the items redone in the mag looked great-. Although to get an ebonized look, oil based paint was used with paint thinner and linseed. Is there an interior oil paint or just exterior adn what would be the best sheen, glossy or mat. The black paint chips I picked up looked weird- either too gray or to "purple". I would like a very dark brownish grey, but am not sure what brand, type etc,. to use as nothing was listed. I thought if anyone was a paint expert or has painted furniture before, may have some advice.Sponsored Links
I would have thought that if you have "real" wooden furniture why hide the grain?
Stain it black, rub down with wire wool then stain it a very dark brown( mixed with black), re wire wool, then varnish.
Just a thought.
Also I would go for semi matt but if you want the gloss look dont worry about dust settling, use a fine grade of wire wool to rub down and then 'T'cut, comes up a treat !!!!
Stain it black, rub down with wire wool then stain it a very dark brown( mixed with black), re wire wool, then varnish.
Just a thought.
Also I would go for semi matt but if you want the gloss look dont worry about dust settling, use a fine grade of wire wool to rub down and then 'T'cut, comes up a treat !!!!
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO. What does TCut mean and is their black stain or would I need black paint. I want it to be a dark black/brown so I like the idea of mixing brown with some black, but I still do not know if I need to use acrilc indoor, or oil based. You seem very knowledgable and I am but a mere novice. And I know it is not the best idea to paid over good wood, however this bed is in realitively fine shape and has a wonderful shape to it, but it is not "pricy". I would rather give it a dark rich color. Its a Martha Stewart idea that I actually like.Sponsored Links
This is in the U.K.
This is what I did to revamp a mahogany chest talle, change colours to suit your needs.
First off, wood dye by ronseal, (? you know that?), used ebony to colour the deep grain, then fine wire wooled(smoother than sanding). Then 50/50 mahogany/ebony to colour the wood, wire wooled again but 'over did it round handles, edges etc. etc.. to make it look worn/used. Then just the mahogany wood stain, looks like its worn where it would be handled. Two days later start varnishing with 75/25 varnish to thinners, that way it really soaks in. Do that 2 or 3 times wire wooling in between then a couple of coats of neat varnish rubbing again with wool in between.
Its hard work I know and takes a time but the cupboards I did 14 years ago still look A1. The reason to 'T'cut is then you dont have to worry too much about dust settling and ruining the finish. You just wire wool it smooth and then cut it back.
This is what I did to revamp a mahogany chest talle, change colours to suit your needs.
First off, wood dye by ronseal, (? you know that?), used ebony to colour the deep grain, then fine wire wooled(smoother than sanding). Then 50/50 mahogany/ebony to colour the wood, wire wooled again but 'over did it round handles, edges etc. etc.. to make it look worn/used. Then just the mahogany wood stain, looks like its worn where it would be handled. Two days later start varnishing with 75/25 varnish to thinners, that way it really soaks in. Do that 2 or 3 times wire wooling in between then a couple of coats of neat varnish rubbing again with wool in between.
Its hard work I know and takes a time but the cupboards I did 14 years ago still look A1. The reason to 'T'cut is then you dont have to worry too much about dust settling and ruining the finish. You just wire wool it smooth and then cut it back.
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