Painting oak kitchen cabinets
- Thread starter 1862steve
- Start date
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First thing is to wash down the doors and panels to remove any grease.
Once dry sand thoroughly using 120-150 grit paper. I assume that the doors are either varnished or oiled. If you don't sand them enough the finish coats will be prone to chipping off.
I would then apply a coat of Leyland Trade acrylic primer and then sand that with 220 grit silicone carbide paper.
Although I am not a fan of waterbased eggshell, it will dry much faster than oil based eggshell. 2 or three coats should be sufficient.
The end panels however are likely to be laminated. I would recommend priming them with Zinsser BIN and a small mohair roller. Do not use a foam roller, the alcohol in the BIN will make the foam roller go floppy. Clean brushes and rollers with household ammonia- it is slightly alkali and completely breaks the paint down rather than simply diluting it.
Once dry sand thoroughly using 120-150 grit paper. I assume that the doors are either varnished or oiled. If you don't sand them enough the finish coats will be prone to chipping off.
I would then apply a coat of Leyland Trade acrylic primer and then sand that with 220 grit silicone carbide paper.
Although I am not a fan of waterbased eggshell, it will dry much faster than oil based eggshell. 2 or three coats should be sufficient.
The end panels however are likely to be laminated. I would recommend priming them with Zinsser BIN and a small mohair roller. Do not use a foam roller, the alcohol in the BIN will make the foam roller go floppy. Clean brushes and rollers with household ammonia- it is slightly alkali and completely breaks the paint down rather than simply diluting it.
Hi opps,
Thanks for replying,think i just needed reassurance as the more i read into this the more options there seemed.Used to be a painter and decorator for about 10 years about 30 years ago.I must admit that i always liked oil base paints but white always seems to go yellowish.Will probably invest in a hvlp sprayer to do the top coats and that’s another minefield of information to find the right sprayer.
Thanks for replying,think i just needed reassurance as the more i read into this the more options there seemed.Used to be a painter and decorator for about 10 years about 30 years ago.I must admit that i always liked oil base paints but white always seems to go yellowish.Will probably invest in a hvlp sprayer to do the top coats and that’s another minefield of information to find the right sprayer.
My HVLP is an old Fuji 3 stage. It is fine for acid cat but would struggle with waterbased. If I need to spray oil based finishes I add Owatrol.
If you do go for waterbased an airless sprayer might be better. eg the battery powered Graco. Not cheap though at £500.
Although I have used acid cat on many occasions and love the fact that it cures soooooo fast, I cannot not in good conscience recommend it because of the risks to health. Spraying cellulose with a HVLP would be safer.
If you do go for waterbased an airless sprayer might be better. eg the battery powered Graco. Not cheap though at £500.
Although I have used acid cat on many occasions and love the fact that it cures soooooo fast, I cannot not in good conscience recommend it because of the risks to health. Spraying cellulose with a HVLP would be safer.
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Dont know what theyare like but may be ok for non pro use?
https://www.aldi.co.uk/750w-airless-spray-station/p/017651288135300
https://www.aldi.co.uk/750w-airless-spray-station/p/017651288135300
IIRC the batteries on the Graco are interchangeable with Dewalt and Makita.
My Fuji is the (only) model that they used to sell before they released the Q range. Over the years I have added and extra 7.5m hose, which massive reduces the temperature of the air that leaves the gun, and allows me to leave the noisy turbine in a different room (reducing noise and the likelihood of sucking in over spray). I also upgraded to the non- bleed gun that the miniMAte uses. Prior to that the gun used to blow dust around even when I wasn't spraying. I also added the Fuji whip hose, it is much lighter and flexible than the standard hose and reduces arm fatigue. Finally I purchased a RF wall socket. With the remote control in my pocket, I didn't need to worry about walking back to the turbine to turn it off once I had sprayed a surface. Oh and then I purchased more needles for the gun. Doing so almost doubled my initial purchase cost.
I was, and am impressed with the quality of the Fuji accessories but given that there are only a couple of firms in the UK that sell their kit, there can be a long lead for them if someone is out of stock.
I have never used the 2 stage MiniMate, I would be concerned about its ability to atomise waterbased paints. That said I have never used the battery powered Graco that I linked to. I last used an Apollo unit about 15 years ago, the quality of the hose was awfull, at the time it was push fit, now they use proper connections.
You might be better off talking to https://www.spraydirect.co.uk/ and tell them what you want to spray.
Another alternative would be to hire a unit.
My Fuji is the (only) model that they used to sell before they released the Q range. Over the years I have added and extra 7.5m hose, which massive reduces the temperature of the air that leaves the gun, and allows me to leave the noisy turbine in a different room (reducing noise and the likelihood of sucking in over spray). I also upgraded to the non- bleed gun that the miniMAte uses. Prior to that the gun used to blow dust around even when I wasn't spraying. I also added the Fuji whip hose, it is much lighter and flexible than the standard hose and reduces arm fatigue. Finally I purchased a RF wall socket. With the remote control in my pocket, I didn't need to worry about walking back to the turbine to turn it off once I had sprayed a surface. Oh and then I purchased more needles for the gun. Doing so almost doubled my initial purchase cost.
I was, and am impressed with the quality of the Fuji accessories but given that there are only a couple of firms in the UK that sell their kit, there can be a long lead for them if someone is out of stock.
I have never used the 2 stage MiniMate, I would be concerned about its ability to atomise waterbased paints. That said I have never used the battery powered Graco that I linked to. I last used an Apollo unit about 15 years ago, the quality of the hose was awfull, at the time it was push fit, now they use proper connections.
You might be better off talking to https://www.spraydirect.co.uk/ and tell them what you want to spray.
Another alternative would be to hire a unit.
Thanks for the informative post.Dont really want to spend much more than £450.Will speak to Spray direct after Christmas.Prehaps might be better off hiring(didn’t think of that)as i don’t have another project in the pipeline and it might be sat in the the garage for a year or two.
There is a corded version of the Graco that I linked to earlier which is £408 (waterbased paints only)
https://www.spraydirect.co.uk/acatalog/Graco-Ultra-Corded-Handheld-Airless-Sprayer-17M360.html
Alternatively for £115 you can buy a Wagner
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wagner-w...0v/6507r#product_additional_details_container
I have no idea how good it is though.
HVLP provides a finer finish but unless you get a 4 or 5 stage model you may need to thin the paint more. My concern is that, if go for a waterbased finish, you will need to thin the paint so much that it weakens the paint.
Apropos hiring, I have just had a quick look, a smaller airless will cost about £200 per week. The Apollo HVLP you looked at will be just under £100 per week.
The following forum might be worth a read through.
http://www.painterspitstop.com/forums/spray-painting.76/
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