Painting woodwork (pics)

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Hi,

I have lots of woodwork to paint; door frames, skirting boards, doors, etc.

The door frames already have paint on them and so do the skirting boards on the stairs. The skirting boards in the rooms are new and plain wood with no paint (but for a few drips) all shown on the images below.

We had a painter come and do some but I thought I could save money by doing it mysel. I asked him what he did. He said he used “Quick dry undercoat and painted after with quick dry high gloss dulux”, but I’ve read bad stuff about quick dry. He just went over the existing paint and I don’t think he sanded it down. If it’s that easy great, but is that the right way to go?

The door frames have quite a lot of paint that’s overlapped from the walls, as you can see from the fifth picture, so how do I get this to a tidy finish?

TIA.
 

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Previously painted :- firsty wash down with 'Sugar Soap' then once dry 'Key' with course sandpaper to remove the existing loose paint. Use a fine dust breathing mask whilst you doing this!
Now is the time to fill any imperfections if you wish to. The imperfections will lneed more keying before being filled. If you do fill then allow 24 to 48 hours to dry and smooth off. Dust off with a 'Tack Cloth' or a damp soft rag. Undercoat with your choice of Undercoat - unless you have large patches of now bared timber. 'De-nib' with fine sandpaper (between all coats) and then 2 coats of top coat.

Bare timber :- fill any imprefection or gaps; sand any paint splashes off. either 'prime' with Aluminium Primer or use knotting on the knots, then prime with 'ordinary' primer. Then paint as above but possibly with 2 coats of undercoat.

As for the final picture. The plaster finish looks to be flush with the top of the Architrave... Is the skirting the same - effectively a flush wall? So a choice, additional architrave over the existing (and the same for skirting) or carefull rubbing down to bare wood and paint carefully - even use masking tape to get a straight edge.
 
Thanks wgt52 - this is brilliant and has rested my mind a lot(!) but still have a few questions if that's OK?

Dust off with a 'Tack Cloth'

This type of thing?

Undercoat with your choice of Undercoat

This type of thing? £32 seems expensive?

'De-nib' with fine sandpaper

Is fine sandpaper around 100 grit? Coarse around 40 grit?

(between all coats) and then 2 coats of top coat.

Is this OK?

Bare timber :- fill any imprefection or gaps; sand any paint splashes off. either 'prime' with Aluminium Primer

This? Again, seems very expensive at £60?

or use knotting on the knots, then prime with 'ordinary' primer. Then paint as above but possibly with 2 coats of undercoat.

Undercoat means primer, yes?

As for the final picture. The plaster finish looks to be flush with the top of the Architrave... Is the skirting the same - effectively a flush wall?

Sorry, I'm a little ignorant here. I'm not completely sure what flush means? We had the walls plastered, then wooden skirting boards fitted, and I painted the walls, with some paint dripping on.

So a choice, additional architrave over the existing (and the same for skirting) or carefull rubbing down to bare wood and paint carefully - even use masking tape to get a straight edge.

Again, many thanks!
 
Nothing wrong with the Dulux Trade Quick Dry stuff by the way. It's really opaque, doesn't smell and doesn't yellow.
 
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Is it OK to use any quick dry undercoat, or do you get a special satinwood undercoat?

And the decorator used "high gloss". Anything wrong with that?
 
Thanks again, this is great help.
Looks like I need to get sanding then! Cheers
 
He just went over the existing paint and I don’t think he sanded it down.

Run your fingernail over the surface. A tenner says that the new paint will peel off but the old paint will still be sound.

My GF did the same thing but with the waterbased Dulux Eggshell. 3 years later, I can still peel it off.
 
If you do fill then allow 24 to 48 hours to dry and smooth off.

Doesn't that depend on the filler used? I wait about an hour for 2 pack filler or half a day for the Red Devil types of filler (depending on thickness). Personally I don't use the powder fillers on woodwork, they invariably blow over time.

That said, some powder fillers do indeed recommend waiting up to 72 hours before painting (eg Touprelith F-
no idea why), IMO if it is dry enough to sand it is dry enough to paint.
 
Previously painted :- firsty wash down with 'Sugar Soap' then once dry 'Key' with course sandpaper to remove the existing loose paint. Use a fine dust breathing mask whilst you doing this!
Now is the time to fill any imperfections if you wish to. The imperfections will lneed more keying before being filled. If you do fill then allow 24 to 48 hours to dry and smooth off. Dust off with a 'Tack Cloth' or a damp soft rag. Undercoat with your choice of Undercoat - unless you have large patches of now bared timber. 'De-nib' with fine sandpaper (between all coats) and then 2 coats of top coat.

Bare timber :- fill any imprefection or gaps; sand any paint splashes off. either 'prime' with Aluminium Primer or use knotting on the knots, then prime with 'ordinary' primer. Then paint as above but possibly with 2 coats of undercoat.

As for the final picture. The plaster finish looks to be flush with the top of the Architrave... Is the skirting the same - effectively a flush wall? So a choice, additional architrave over the existing (and the same for skirting) or carefull rubbing down to bare wood and paint carefully - even use masking tape to get a straight edge.

Can I check with this, with bare timber, do I prime using primer, then undercoat then paint with top coat? I've knotted, just need to know what's next. Thanks.
 
You can get combination primer+undercoat which may save you some time now you've knotted.

But FYI one of the best primers you can get is Zinsser BIN. It can be used for knotting and will stick to anything -wood, old paint, uPVC, oil slicked sea birds, you name it. Then just undercoat and top coat.
 
Cheers Gerry. I've already bought my primer and undercoat separately unfortunately, so I guess I'll prime then undercoat then top coat, yes? Cheers.
 

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