H
holmslaw
..
Part P - for an Engineer, how hard, expensive & long?
- Thread starter Golaboots888
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Do you mean the City & Guilds 2393-10 - Level 3 Certificate in the Building Regulations for Electrical Installations in Dwellings ?
To get a 2-2 degree (which while not great is still considered acceptable in many places) you only need to get arround 50% or higher overall mark. If you are good at mathematical methods and good at cramming it is sadly possible to do much better than that without ever really getting a strong grasp of the fundamentals.Degree - my a**e.
Heck I did a degree in electronic systems engineering and while sure we were taught how resistors/capacitors/inductors behaved I don't think they ever taught us much if anything about the behaviour of practical loads as voltage changes.
B767, is that BAS?
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 8 Jan 2011
- Messages
- 591
- Reaction score
- 35
- Country
I think he meant the gentleman in the video.
That gentleman is a figment of my imagination.I think he meant the gentleman in the video.
He's a composite of all the electricians who post advice about Part P.
Why would he be asking me about the video?I think he meant the gentleman in the video.
- Joined
- 8 Jan 2011
- Messages
- 591
- Reaction score
- 35
- Country
More implying that you're in the video.
I never use the term "sugartits".
Well you should, especially when you know a bit about wires. Also sugartits goes down a storm as much with the misses and her friends/family as it does with the customers, especially when you pop round to quote for banging a new ring in for them to part p standards.
Dingbat, surely the vidoes are a little extreme, I would think that there can't be many sparks behaving like that from my experience from the forum.
Dingbat, surely the vidoes are a little extreme, I would think that there can't be many sparks behaving like that from my experience from the forum.
Oh no it isn't!
Had the quote said "will consume almost 9% more power", then it would have been right. But it didn't say that; it referred to the energy consumed by the appliance. Most appliances will consume much the same energy by switching off/down when water reaches the right temperature or the refrigerator cools to its set point.
The 9% more energy is too high even for filiament lighting because the filiament resistance increases with temperature, so the lamp's power in watts does not vary by as much as as the square of the voltage assumed by the 9% figure.
The 240/230V issue is very much alive. 230V is the declared voltage; the average voltage supplied to households is not the same. Indeed, if the LV distribution network is designed optimally so that the worst case consumers hit 230V +6%, and 230V -10% during peak and minimum load times, the average voltage of all the connected consumers is ~ 243V
- Joined
- 17 Aug 2010
- Messages
- 2,741
- Reaction score
- 453
- Country
You make a good point. It does depend on whether the resistive appliance is designed to draw a certain amount of energy, or simply continuously convert electricity into power.
The point about light bulbs is a bit weaker, as it is a relatively small difference. And for a real power user, such as an electric shower, the original statement is closer to the truth.
It's good, however, to question glib statements.
The point about light bulbs is a bit weaker, as it is a relatively small difference. And for a real power user, such as an electric shower, the original statement is closer to the truth.
It's good, however, to question glib statements.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
