Partition Dry Wall

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Hi

Firstly a big thank you to all in these forums for some very useful help & tips

The work now starts rebuilding our project, I will be attempting to build partition walls this weekend and understand the best materials to use is 47 x 75 sawn timber with 12.5mm plasterboard.

I would like to add insulation between the plasterboard is there a particular product I should use? Any other 'top-tips' to aid the quest! :D

Thanks very much in advance!

Rusty
 
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What rooms is this wall dividing?
Normally rock/mineral wool is as good as anything.
Are there any electrical cables in the wall?
If so should not be totaly surround by insulation unless cables are rated correctly for this installation method.
 
The obvious one which i'm sure you've already got is make sure your studs are at the right centres for plasterboard sheets.

Plus make sure that you think through internal corners as you need to include an extra upright (or other noggins etc) to allow you to fix the 2 perpendicular plasterboard sheets.
 
Wow, thanks for the very propt and helpful replies.

The walls are for a newly fitted staircase, it will basically be the wall for a bedroom if that makes any difference? What would be the best screws for 47 x 75 sawn wood, was thinking 70mm No. 5's?
 
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I would use 100mm screws or oval nails for head plate ,sole plate and studs.
Use 12.5mm Plasterboards, you will get away with 600mm stud centres and add a few noggins for extra strength.
If you plan on hanging any thing on the wall, like pictures, mirrors, shelves, radiators etc... account for this and measure up and get some timbers in the correct places, before you board out, so it will carry the weight of these items.
Rock wool will give a good soundproof insulator.
Remember about the electrical cables they will need to be calculated if totaly surrounded within insulation as the insulation will prevent heat being dissipated from the cables and can become a fire hazard if not addressed at the design stage of power circuits.
 
I would use 100mm screws or oval nails for head plate ,sole plate and studs.
Use 12.5mm Plasterboards, you will get away with 600mm stud centres and add a few noggins for extra strength.
If you plan on hanging any thing on the wall, like pictures, mirrors, shelves, radiators etc... account for this and measure up and get some timbers in the correct places, before you board out, so it will carry the weight of these items.
Rock wool will give a good soundproof insulator.
Remember about the electrical cables they will need to be calculated if totaly surrounded within insulation as the insulation will prevent heat being dissipated from the cables and can become a fire hazard if not addressed at the design stage of power circuits.

never 600mm centres on a wall...

400mm centres noggins at 1200 high... and ignore the advice on cables... over a wall this high it will have no bearing...

just scare mongering from people reading the wrong forum and believing they know it all....
 
never 600mm centres on a wall...

400mm centres noggins at 1200 high... and ignore the advice on cables... over a wall this high it will have no bearing...

just scare mongering from people reading the wrong forum and believing they know it all....
You'll get away with 600mm centres in a stud wall, that is taking 12.5mm plasterboard, if it was 9.5mm different case. I would never recommend using 9.5mm PBs though, I must admit 400mm centres will give you a sturdier wall, but if noggins are in place at approx half way points will be good enough, you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling.
Don't need to read forums regarding electrical installation within thermal insulation, if you want your house to burn down listen to the ignorant one!
Where thermal insulation is likely to be applied the cable should be fixed in a position where it will not be covered by thermal insulations.
Where this is impracticable, the CSA (cross sectional area) must be increased appropriately or reference methods applied and factored in.
Not only will you find this requirement within BS7671:2008 it also applies within building regulations.
Deratings start to be factored in at 50mm, I guess your wall is higher, wider, longer than 50mm.
Don't pretend to know it all, but I know that I have paperwork and qualification to prove that I know about this stuff.
 
never 600mm centres on a wall...

400mm centres noggins at 1200 high... and ignore the advice on cables... over a wall this high it will have no bearing...

just scare mongering from people reading the wrong forum and believing they know it all....
You'll get away with 600mm centres in a stud wall, that is taking 12.5mm plasterboard, if it was 9.5mm different case. I would never recommend using 9.5mm PBs though, I must admit 400mm centres will give you a sturdier wall, but if noggins are in place at approx half way points will be good enough, you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling.
Don't need to read forums regarding electrical installation within thermal insulation, if you want your house to burn down listen to the ignorant one!
Where thermal insulation is likely to be applied the cable should be fixed in a position where it will not be covered by thermal insulations.
Where this is impracticable, the CSA (cross sectional area) must be increased appropriately or reference methods applied and factored in.
Not only will you find this requirement within BS7671:2008 it also applies within building regulations.
Deratings start to be factored in at 50mm, I guess your wall is higher, wider, longer than 50mm.
Don't pretend to know it all, but I know that I have paperwork and qualification to prove that I know about this stuff.

what absolute rubbish....

so you say that if you insulate one stud wall where there are cables in, it will burn down....


you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling.

again..... absolute tosh.....
 
what absolute rubbish....

so you say that if you insulate one stud wall where there are cables in, it will burn down....
No I didn't say that!
I said cables should not be covered in insulation, if they are they should be de-rated or a compliant installation reference method used. Even then the cable may still need to be upgraded.
If they are not then there is a risk of fire.
you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling.

again..... absolute tosh.....
I think Sir Isaac Newton's law of gravity, might back me up on that one.
;)
 
Hi thanks for the info' guys

Didn't want this thread to start any er, 'debates'. No cables to be routed through these particular walls, so no issue there.

Think it will be 400mm studs with 1200 x 2400 12.5mm plasterboard and 100mm No. 5 screws & rockwool insulation then :D

Looking at where the joists are in the loft I will have to add some noggins up there for the head plate, anything I should bear in mind?

Thanks again!
 
Just take care when you fit your head/sole plate, that there will be no cables or pipe work (in ceiling and floor voids) that can be mechanically damaged when fixing in by screw/nails.
When you fix the boards up, screw to stud work every 150-200mm.
Will the walls be plastered or joint taped?
 
Hi thanks for the info' guys

Didn't want this thread to start any er, 'debates'.
That sometime happens, you may get used to that.
But I asure you the guidance and information I have offered, is sound.
No cables to be routed through these particular walls, so no issue there.
Not an issue this time, but you are now aware for future projects, that circuits installed within insulation must be installed and designed correctly.
Not scare mongering, if I am offering advice I feel a moral duty to inform you of best praticed and safe methods.
Think it will be 400mm studs with 1200 x 2400 12.5mm plasterboard and 100mm No. 5 screws & rockwool insulation then :D
Good call ;)
and good luck with your project.
 
Hi Looking at where the joists are in the loft I will have to add some noggins up there for the head plate, anything I should bear in mind?
If you are between joists, i.e. the joists in the loft run parallel to the stud wall you are building, then it would make sense to pop a couple of nogg's in the space between joists.

You could build the stud wall without fixing the loft nog's by fixing the header to the two end uprights then take the sag out when you fill in. Just don't try and make the uprights too tight.

Once built, pop into the loft and fit the nog's then screw downwards into the top of the stud wall. Two or three would be enough to stabilize say a 4m wall.

P.S. I personally prefer either 400mm or 450mm centres and never use the max span of 600mm centers for anything.
 
never 600mm centres on a wall...

400mm centres noggins at 1200 high... and ignore the advice on cables... over a wall this high it will have no bearing...

just scare mongering from people reading the wrong forum and believing they know it all....
You'll get away with 600mm centres in a stud wall, that is taking 12.5mm plasterboard, if it was 9.5mm different case. I would never recommend using 9.5mm PBs though, I must admit 400mm centres will give you a sturdier wall, but if noggins are in place at approx half way points will be good enough, you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling.
Don't need to read forums regarding electrical installation within thermal insulation, if you want your house to burn down listen to the ignorant one!
Where thermal insulation is likely to be applied the cable should be fixed in a position where it will not be covered by thermal insulations.
Where this is impracticable, the CSA (cross sectional area) must be increased appropriately or reference methods applied and factored in.
Not only will you find this requirement within BS7671:2008 it also applies within building regulations.
Deratings start to be factored in at 50mm, I guess your wall is higher, wider, longer than 50mm.
Don't pretend to know it all, but I know that I have paperwork and qualification to prove that I know about this stuff.

Don't need to read forums regarding electrical installation within thermal insulation, if you want your house to burn down listen to the ignorant one!




no.... you did not....

again...
 
you don't get the same sag on a wall as you do on ceiling



again... absolute tosh....
 

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