Partitioning garage

[BobRRR]

Hey DIYNot!

We've got a garage that we're looking to partition just to keep stuff tidy. Thinking of dividing so that our chest freezer, tumble dryer, etc is kept to it's own space, leaving the rest for storage of other items. There is a separate door that can provide access to the new "utility" too.

Plans initially were to run some uprights (25mm x 50mm?) from floor to the roofing joists at regular intervals (fixing to the joists), and then covering using some 3mm hardboard to a height of about 6ft off the ground (possibly leaving a small gap at the bottom to allow for air flow).

My main concern with this was, am I going to need some more bracing between the uprights, over and above what the hardboard will provide? Also regarding fixing the uprights to the floor - another concern is that if it's free standing, will it cause any twisting motion to the joists and damage the roof? And therefore will do better being bolted to the floor.

Cheers!

 

[mattylad]

You would be better using 3"x2" and brace it between with a few more verticals and some horizontal noggins.

Bolt/screw the bottom one to the floor, the side ones to the side walls if you can.

Hardboard will warp.
Insulate it between the final finishing, rockwool should do (kingspan may be better).

 

[foxhole]

3x2 timbers and plasterboard , or it will look cack.Screwed to walls and joists, you could use fixing foam at floor. Noggins at centre of uprights .Insulation would also help keep room comfortable ( freezer and dryer will produce some heat).

 

[BobRRR]

Cheers for the responses guys, i'm a bit wet behind the ears with woodworking.

I didn't realise hardboard would warp but that does make a lot of sense. I'm not sure insulation would help at all given the single-pane glass in the door and window and the absolutely mahoosive gap under the up and over door, but i'm quite happy with having one side of the partition open - would fit with a garage look.

When you referred to fixing foam at the floor, are you referring to the plasterboard adhesive foam (so, put a line of foam on the edge of the plasterboard, then butt against the floor)?

 

[foxhole]

Fixing foam for base timber to floor to avoid drilling .

 

[Deleted member 174758]

What's the problem with drilling and plugging, @foxhole ?

 

[^woody^]

Use 38 x 63mm CLS, with a sole plate on the floor and head plate across the ceiling timbers- or noggins if the wall is parallel to the ceiling timbers.

Spike the sole plate with some suitable fixings 75mm screws and plugs or hammer fixings every 500mm. Use more substantial board than hardboard - MDF, OSB, PLY or plasterboard.

You will need to vent the enclosed room to the outside.

 

[mrrusty]

Just a heads up on timber - yes CLS is the "correct" spec, but certainly in my local merchant is about 3x the price of "carcassing" "3x2" and TBH there really isn't much difference in quality because carcassing is well finished these days with eased edges, and especially if you select it yourself and avoid the bananas - carcassing grade would be fine for this application

e.g.

https://www.cwberry.com/Building-Ma...g-Timber/75mm-Carcassing-Timber_M01010022.htm
v.
https://www.cwberry.com/Building-Materials/Timber/CLS-Timber/38mm-x-63mm-CLS-Timber_M01020501.htm