Circular saw aside the impact driver is the same one that I have and it's a beast - if figures are to be believed it chucks out 220Nm of torque, you'll find most others (makita, dewalt, etc) tend to quote between 160-180Nm - I certainly went through quite a few bits until I got the wera tritorsion bit holder (now it's only the odd one now and again!)
Peoples thoughts on the Ryobi One+ set
- Thread starter J_N30
- Start date
Sponsored Links
I feel you're going through bits like crazy (and this not necessarily aimed at you chud, more the op) double check you're using the right bit for the screw. Just because a bit is a + shape and the screw is a + shaped hole doesn't mean they're intended for each other
If you look at the screw head and it has a little x between the + lines, then it's a pozi screw and requires a pozi bit, normally coded pz1, pz2, pz3 etc.
If the screw has no x then it's a Philips screw and requires a ph1, ph2 (most likely), or ph3 bit
If your bit has no code on it then (buy better bits or) look at it. If it has spiked looking metal ridges between the +, it's probably pozi. If a smooth scoop and the drive vanes look thinner near the tip Then it's probably Philips
Philips screws are intended for use in industrial processes where machines will drive the screw then release, so theyre designed to slip out more easily. Plasterboard screws tend to be Philips because you can get auto feeding guns that rely on this exact mechanism to easily release and move onto the next screw. Pozi on the other hand, are used on screws wound in singly or by hand. Here drive grip is more important than easy release as they're typically used in much higher torque (harder to screw in) contexts
Using the wrong bit will guarantee that you smash bits and ruin screw heads on a regular basis. Impact drivers must use bits rated for impact use, otherwise the vanes will just snap off. If you must use a non impact bit for impact purposes, use it in one direction only: you'll snap it to pieces much sooner if you use it both to wind screws out as well as in
Hard as it is to believe, this doesn't seem to be common knowledge. None of the trades I've had on site has appreciated the difference between bits, the latest one is a really capable guy but when I caught him moaning that he'd ruined 8 bits on the job in the first week (and it was obviously the bit's fault) I took 5 minutes out to deliver the sermon.
His only comment was "what, I have to keep changing the bit all the time depending on the screw?"
"Well, you either do that, or keep a pz2 in your cordless and a ph2 in your impact"
He hasn't broken any more bits since, mind.. But then I caught him using a pz2 bit to wind a 150mm pz3 screw in..
What I'd really like is a double ended impact bit that is Philips one end and pozi he other. They seem quite rare, which is puzzling. Either that or a place on the gun to keep the other style of bit. My Bosch impact has this, but the cordless combo doesn't.
If you look at the screw head and it has a little x between the + lines, then it's a pozi screw and requires a pozi bit, normally coded pz1, pz2, pz3 etc.
If the screw has no x then it's a Philips screw and requires a ph1, ph2 (most likely), or ph3 bit
If your bit has no code on it then (buy better bits or) look at it. If it has spiked looking metal ridges between the +, it's probably pozi. If a smooth scoop and the drive vanes look thinner near the tip Then it's probably Philips
Philips screws are intended for use in industrial processes where machines will drive the screw then release, so theyre designed to slip out more easily. Plasterboard screws tend to be Philips because you can get auto feeding guns that rely on this exact mechanism to easily release and move onto the next screw. Pozi on the other hand, are used on screws wound in singly or by hand. Here drive grip is more important than easy release as they're typically used in much higher torque (harder to screw in) contexts
Using the wrong bit will guarantee that you smash bits and ruin screw heads on a regular basis. Impact drivers must use bits rated for impact use, otherwise the vanes will just snap off. If you must use a non impact bit for impact purposes, use it in one direction only: you'll snap it to pieces much sooner if you use it both to wind screws out as well as in
Hard as it is to believe, this doesn't seem to be common knowledge. None of the trades I've had on site has appreciated the difference between bits, the latest one is a really capable guy but when I caught him moaning that he'd ruined 8 bits on the job in the first week (and it was obviously the bit's fault) I took 5 minutes out to deliver the sermon.
His only comment was "what, I have to keep changing the bit all the time depending on the screw?"
"Well, you either do that, or keep a pz2 in your cordless and a ph2 in your impact"
He hasn't broken any more bits since, mind.. But then I caught him using a pz2 bit to wind a 150mm pz3 screw in..
What I'd really like is a double ended impact bit that is Philips one end and pozi he other. They seem quite rare, which is puzzling. Either that or a place on the gun to keep the other style of bit. My Bosch impact has this, but the cordless combo doesn't.
That's interesting other thoughts on the saw? I got mine as part of a bundle of second hand tools. Perhaps it was faulty? Even with a new blade It not only drained 3ah battery very fast but it was always so underpowered, didn't even like cutting 18mm mdf really.
Perhaps I will give it a go again with a new one.
I use the grinder a lot and it lasts well and I imagine is as big a draw as the circ saw.
Perhaps I will give it a go again with a new one.
I use the grinder a lot and it lasts well and I imagine is as big a draw as the circ saw.
when using the saw
check the blade and fence are exactly parallel to each other if they are not the blade will work twice as hard cutting at the back off the blade as well as the front
you can see this by looking at the last few inches off a cut where there will be extra cut marks on one side or the other stopping at the point the back off the blade stops cutting
the riving knife must be the correct size and exactly lined up with the blade to stop it causing drag and possibly force the blade to cut badly and off line
mdf and chipboard will murder a blade fairly quickly
when using a saw you should have no more than 2 or 3 teeth showing through the work so on 18mm board blade set for around 20mm this reduces drag and reduces breakout
check the blade and fence are exactly parallel to each other if they are not the blade will work twice as hard cutting at the back off the blade as well as the front
you can see this by looking at the last few inches off a cut where there will be extra cut marks on one side or the other stopping at the point the back off the blade stops cutting
the riving knife must be the correct size and exactly lined up with the blade to stop it causing drag and possibly force the blade to cut badly and off line
mdf and chipboard will murder a blade fairly quickly
Last edited:
Sponsored Links
My bit breakage had more to do with what I was doing - removing 8 x 120mm PZ3 Spax screws that had rusted into an old decking - I broke a lot more screws than bits though!
I'm a bit obsessive with bit selection as a general rule - another issue I've encountered that can cause problems (particularly with cam-out) is cheap screws with poorly made recesses - again more of an issue when you're trying to undo someone else's work.
Forgotten about this thread.
I took your advice and went for the 4a/h kit and haven't looked back. I'm enjoying building the one+ collection!
I thought about the One+ kit from Ryobi, but after hearing a lot more about Techtronics Industries who make them and Milwaukee amongst others I wasn't too keen on them and decided to go with Makita. I've had some of their teal tools over a decade and they still run fine, some are still on their original brushes. Now I'm building my LXT kit slowly and am really chuffed with it all.
i have had ryobi kit for perhaps 15 years and apart from the origional "take 5" 18v jigsaw not performing well on thin material unless well supported i have had no complaints
yes its not had a hard life but its in daily use and because all one+ is forward and backward compatable ideal for diy and light trade for someone starting up in business with little money
yes its not had a hard life but its in daily use and because all one+ is forward and backward compatable ideal for diy and light trade for someone starting up in business with little money
That's what I thought too, I go through periods of heavy DIY in the summer then have the winter off and I wasn't sure I could justify the extra money on the LXT. I put a lot of thought into it and in the end decided to go for it as I'd like them to last several years and work every time I pick them up without worrying if it's going to crap out on me, I just couldn't find anything to give me that confidence in the Ryobi.
If you can justify the price tag I agree go for it. I can't however due to the limited use. I have nothing but praise for the Ryobi gear so far, my neighbour has been using them for years and this fills me with confidence......
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
