peugeot 206 rear hub replacement

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Having removed the hubs, replaced the bearings and silly circlip, the final part is to replace the hub over the new linings. Not as easy as you may think. Is there any advice to push the new assembly over the stub axle, specialist tools ect.
And yes the linings had detached and jammed onto the old hubs, common problem.


:confused:
 
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Make sure the shoe self adjusters are turned right back
Grind away the rust lip on the inside of the drum.......and the drum should pass over the shoes easily.
John :)
 
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The self adjusters have been cleaned lubricated and would fully back. The shoes and drums and bearings are new. No burs or interface with the friction material, just simply getting the new bearings onto the stubs without resorting to the big tool ! would appear to need either pulling on or the centre of the bearing race forcing onto the axle. :cry:
 
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I've never had a problem like that with these hubs, but I have seen many occasions where the drum wouldn't pull off the stub axle, and that was due to rust.
Try polishing the stub axle with wet and dry paper until it's completely shiny, then oil it, and try again.
Some of these had twin bearings with a spacer in the middle, which occasionally was a pain to get central.
John :)
 
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Just check that the end of the shaft hasn't got a small burr on it somewhere.....it takes very little to jam these things up.
You don't have a micrometer, I guess?
John :)
 
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Is the old bearing you took off as tight as the new one on the stub? Or better still if you have the new bearing for the other side, try it on the stub before fitting to the hub? As already said, polish stub until a good fit or am I missing something ................. :)
 
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:LOL: yeah, alignment alignment alignment, need I say more. Just a tiny angle and they locked as tight as a witches t#t. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
Please note the new kit comes with a circlip with eyelets this catches on the existing washer, a secondary M20 washer was needed to space off the bearings.
 
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I am interpreting this as the removal and reinstatement of the brake drum.

Have not had much of a problem doing that myself. I did one of mine last week! Its getting them OFF that is a pain because of the lip which wears on the inner surface.

That is coupled with the fact that I dont know how ( or IF ) its possible to set the auto adjustment teeth to the "off" position.

Is there any way to do that?

Tony
 
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If the adjusters are the round type, similar in may ways to a long bolt, the teeth that turn them are angled one way so they form a ratchet principle....theoretically they can only rotate one way because of a thin blade that locks into the teeth.
By pressing this blade away from the adjuster means you can turn it any way you like.
A picture would help here!
John :)
 
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But you cant wind them back with the drum on can you?
 
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Its difficult but you can work through the stud holes with a fine blade screwdriver - it is possible to see the adjuster within. Its guesswork which way to turn though, although it will only go so far anyway if its the wrong direction.
If all else fails, I pull the drum off with a puller, or have reached for the slide hammer in the past!
John :)
 
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Mine use what I would describe as a quadrant or rather two quadrants with asymmetric teeth where they touch.

It may well be possible to do something through the bolt holes.

Next time I will see if I can find any easy way.

Tony
 
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The quadrant type are by far the best, and usually you can disengage them through the drum holes....easy to say, though!
In the released position, the quadrant pieces are hardly visible.
If one side is troublesome, try the other.....maybe it will come adrift easily.
John :)
 
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On my nearside quadrants the upper part moves to the right hand side to release. The lower part seems to stay still. Will look in more detail next time.

I would guess at the other side but don't like to risk making a mistake and misleading anyone!
 
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