Pineboard 10mm - Advice Please

[BillyBilly]

Big All

That's the general idea. Should be interesting.

I'm going to apply quite a dark finish to the product so the joins in the board shouldn't be too noticeable.

Have you used pineboard before? I guess that the outside edges will route just like plank wood? But I guess the glue will blunt the router bits quicker.

 

[big-all]

dont worry about the glue it will router fine bbbuuuutttt

because you need around 2 or 3mm run the bearing on plus the clearence between bearing and cutter you are virtualy restricted to rebates or single edge moulding

if you wanted to do a roundover on both edges for example your only going to have around 3mm cutting that wont realy show

if you try and mould say 5mm each side for example the first pass will be fine but when you try and do the opposite side the bearing will run on the moulded edge and give you uneven sides and the bearing is likely to dig in as its bearing running on one corner

 

[BillyBilly]

My experience at routing is only a touch better than my knowledge about pineboard

I'm using a table and fence, so I have ditched most of the bearings. So far I have obtained a smart edge to the product, which I am happy with.

The real problem that I encountered was routing the vertical of a 25mm high drawer edge on my table. There's too much space in the fence for the drawer edge to smoothly pass over, so the wood tends to get 'sucked in'. After a few minutes of messing about, I tried putting 4 drawer edges together through the machine and the results were much better. Is this what is recommended, or can you offer a better solution?

Thanks.

 

[big-all]

still much much easier using a bearing when you can once the cutter is set up you can duplicate till the cows come home
not shure how your doing it but the fence should be on the opposite side of the cutter to the work to and moved accross so it covers back and sides untill it supports the work

in other words the work must NOT be sandwiched between cutter an fence


doubling up of work when you have thin edge is standard practice for extra support

in general you should be able to router most mouldings flat on the table

a little tip when your routering run both sides through the cutter first then the end grain
you can of course do the first end grain pass as a follow on to the second edge cut in one motion

 

[Jasonb]

You should make a false zero clearance fence when working with short pieces.

This can be done by clamping a scrap of MDF or ply to your router table fence then slowly winding up the cutter into the fence which gives you zero clearance so no gaps for the work to move into. You will really need a fine height adjuster to do this although it is also possible to pivot the fence back onto the cutter until it breaks through by the required amount.

Use a scrap of board that is accuratly square as a mitre guide to keep the work at right angles to the fence, the usual guide on cheaper tables is not accurate enough.

Jason

 

[Jasonb]

You should make a false zero clearance fence when working with short pieces.

This can be done by clamping a scrap of MDF or ply to your router table fence then slowly winding up the cutter into the fence which gives you zero clearance so no gaps for the work to move into. You will really need a fine height adjuster to do this although it is also possible to pivot the fence back onto the cutter until it breaks through by the required amount.

Use a scrap of board that is accuratly square as a mitre guide to keep the work at right angles to the fence, the usual guide on cheaper tables is not accurate enough.

Jason

 

[BillyBilly]

Jason - thanks for that. What a useful bit of information. I have tried to make the gap as small as possible but didn't think to actually cut a wooden fence with the bit to get no gap at all. Great

Big All - Your suggestion:

a little tip when your routering run both sides through the cutter first then the end grain

. Is this to avoid edge splitting?

 

[big-all]

yes because because the end grain is so much harder to cut it will try and push the grain off at the end
but because youve already removed the profile on the sides theres less to take off

 

[Jasonb]

yes because because the end grain is so much harder to cut it will try and push the grain off at the end
but because youve already removed the profile on the sides theres less to take off

Alternatively use a scrap of wood behind your work piece to stop break out. I tend to do the end grain first then the long grain as any splintering of the end grain will be removed with the long grain cut.

Jason

 

[big-all]

yes because because the end grain is so much harder to cut it will try and push the grain off at the end
but because youve already removed the profile on the sides theres less to take off

Alternatively use a scrap of wood behind your work piece to stop break out. I tend to do the end grain first then the long grain as any splintering of the end grain will be removed with the long grain cut.

Jason

ok with good quality sharp cutters

another way is when you router the side after youve cut25mm go back around the end grain for a few mm [with the direction of cutter ]that stops break out but you have to be carefull

 

[roverboat]

Hello,

Thanks for your previous replies on the subject of pineboard.

I have managed to find a UK supplier of 10mm pineboard - the size, and especially the weight, suit me fine.

So my question is as follows; Is 10mm pineboard a stable material which is not subject to 'cupping' ?

I used 12mm redwood and had poor results, which is why I looked for pineboard.

Any advice on the use of 10mm pineboard in relation to making a very small cabinet containing drawers would be much appreciated.

Thank You.

Hello there. I have just posted a new topic on this subject. Where did you obtain your 12mm and 10mm board please? I intend using it for the back of a spice rack as a neater alternative to cladding.