Hi, can anyone please tell me if it is possible to plasterboard directly over existing plaster walls? I don't want to lose the extra space required for battening, and I cannot remove the existing plaster for dot and dab fixing, so I wondered if it was possible to fix the plasterboard by screwing it directly over the existing plaster wall. Any info regarding this is greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Lianne.
Plasterboard directly on to existing wall without battening?
- Thread starter LianneB1
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There are some good "grab adhesives" on the market that are perfect for your type of job. "Gripfill", "No More Nails", "Sticks Like Sh*t", to name but a few.They come in tubes and are applied in thickish beads to the back of the sheet of plasterboard and pressed soundly into place, directly onto the old plastered wall. As long as the wall/s are sound and dry,preferably with no paper on, you'll have no problem.You will also have to think about the work involved with sockets,switches, architraves etc. due to the extra thickness.
Roughcaster.
Roughcaster.
Roughcaster, that's great news. It will certainly get rid of the trouble I envisaged if this couldn't be done. I will use one of your recommended adhesives plus screws, as these are bathroom walls that I will be tiling, so I need to ensure the boards don't come loose - I can use very long screws that will go through the board and plaster into the breeze blocks. Thanks for your advice.
Lianne
Lianne
As long as the actual "screwhead" doesn't go right through the paper on the face of the plasterboard. Just screw it in with the head "flush" to the surface of the board, or "very slightly" countersunk.
Roughcaster.
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If the room has an external corner in it, like a dog leg room, would it be ok to use the aformentioned grab adhesive ti stick any beading on it, rather than trying to fix it with the plaster?
I was thinking pre plastering... I guess the actual question is: " are any good grab adhesives out there to fix angle beads which can't be screwed or nailed?" "or woiuld they all do the job?"
I would only overboard if the original walls were really unsound with deep seated cracks; & even then I would rather remove the plaster locally, repair & then re-skim the lot! If you do overboard, Drywall adhesive will work fine, you don’t have to go to the expense of using a grab adhesive!
To fix angle/edge beading, I use either a staple gun &/or grab adhesive. I’ve tried several brands of grab adhesive but stick mainly with B&Q own brand; it’s as good as & better in some cases to any of the more expensive brands I’ve tried.
To fix angle/edge beading, I use either a staple gun &/or grab adhesive. I’ve tried several brands of grab adhesive but stick mainly with B&Q own brand; it’s as good as & better in some cases to any of the more expensive brands I’ve tried.
Thanks for all your comments.
Roughcaster>> that's great, thanks.
morrik27>> ?? you have lost me, I don't have any external corners so I don't see the relevance, it is just a normal rectangular room!!
joe-90>> I can see how it sounds ridiculous, but, the current walls are not very good and the tiles I am putting on require something more supportive than standard plaster - as even if it is really good / new it will only withstand approx 20Kg per square metre of weight, the tiles I am using weigh about 28-30Kg including the adhesive. However plasterboard will support approx 32Kg per square metre, so my theory is if I screw through the plasterboard and plaster into the breeze this will have the same strength as a standard plasterboard wall. If this was I room I was painting I would certainly have gone with your suggestion as that would definitely be the best option in that case.
Richard C>> The original walls are really bad, but the main reason for the overboard is strength for the tiles, otherwise I would have the walls patched and skimmed as per your suggestion. As for the adhesive, that's great B&Q here I come.
Regards, Lianne
Roughcaster>> that's great, thanks.
morrik27>> ?? you have lost me, I don't have any external corners so I don't see the relevance, it is just a normal rectangular room!!
joe-90>> I can see how it sounds ridiculous, but, the current walls are not very good and the tiles I am putting on require something more supportive than standard plaster - as even if it is really good / new it will only withstand approx 20Kg per square metre of weight, the tiles I am using weigh about 28-30Kg including the adhesive. However plasterboard will support approx 32Kg per square metre, so my theory is if I screw through the plasterboard and plaster into the breeze this will have the same strength as a standard plasterboard wall. If this was I room I was painting I would certainly have gone with your suggestion as that would definitely be the best option in that case.
Richard C>> The original walls are really bad, but the main reason for the overboard is strength for the tiles, otherwise I would have the walls patched and skimmed as per your suggestion. As for the adhesive, that's great B&Q here I come.
Regards, Lianne
Yeah, sorry 
, I think I'll start a new thread. I was looking round for threads to stick beads to external corners with adhesives, rather than plaster or screws.
But i guess the same would apply for around any window reveals?
, I think I'll start a new thread. I was looking round for threads to stick beads to external corners with adhesives, rather than plaster or screws.But i guess the same would apply for around any window reveals?
Bathroom + Plasterboard = Problems
Lianne, if you’re intending to have this new plasterboard in ‘wet’ areas of the bathroom (I.e. shower enclosure, etc) spend a little extra and buy Aquapanel. Normal platersboard won’t last long if any water gets into it.
Either use Aqualpanel or tank the area using a tanking kit for peace of mind. (Basically tanking is a waterproofing substance that is applied before you tile).
Lianne, if you’re intending to have this new plasterboard in ‘wet’ areas of the bathroom (I.e. shower enclosure, etc) spend a little extra and buy Aquapanel. Normal platersboard won’t last long if any water gets into it.
Either use Aqualpanel or tank the area using a tanking kit for peace of mind. (Basically tanking is a waterproofing substance that is applied before you tile).
Absolutely;
I'm an Aquapanel man myself.no worries, I have purchased Aquapanel for the shower area - would have loved to Aquapanel the full room but didn't have the funds
I have also got a Dunlop tanking kit to make double sure!! May be a bit of overkill, but for the minimal extra cost it will ensure a fully waterproof shower area.
Thanks for the info/advice. Lianne.
I have also got a Dunlop tanking kit to make double sure!! May be a bit of overkill, but for the minimal extra cost it will ensure a fully waterproof shower area.
Thanks for the info/advice. Lianne.
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