Plastering Large Wall

[Stefano]

I'm about to plaster a wall that's a bit too big for an amateur like me, is there any way to split it into two smaller ones without the joint being visible?

 

[noseall]

Unlikely, but it depends upon how good you are at plastering and 'grinding in'.

If sunlight catches a wall just right it will show up any imperfections, even the grain in the plastering, so a deliberate join has got no chance!

So, if a visible join is likely to drive you mad i would say hire a spread to do it for you.

 

[1john]

work faster

 

[Richard C]

A thin coat plaster stop bead; fit it so you plaster up to the outside edge (not over the mesh), remove before plaster sets hard & then plaster up to the other side (of the set plaster). I’ve used this trick on 5m x 4.3m high conservatory gable walls where the height was impossible for me to manage on my own & where I’ve had no choice but to skim the majority of a wall before other work is finished; some have also used it with sucess on large ceilings; done properly you probably wont need filler & won’t see the join.

Do a search & you should find a few archive posts on it.

 

[1john]

Dado rail may be another idea?

Are you sure you cant get it in one hit, perhaps ask a mate to help you, if he or she has a bucket trowel full of muck ready to slap on your hawk the second you need it, you will lay it on in no time, I find this helpful on ceilings, saves alot of getting up and down.

 

[jonathandiy]

I sectioned off a large wall into three areas using stop bead, blending next into last section. its tricky to get away with it. but does work where its virtually impossible to do all in one hit by yourself. I found a trick is after you plaster a section and removed the stop bead, just then chamfer off the sharp edge almost back to the wall. then when you plaster to the join the line wont be so hard and will aid blending in. PVA the overlap of section you have just done to about 1.5 roller widths at least. else when you try to blend the section you have done will suck all the moisture out of the new plaster and it wont want to go thin.

 

[Richard C]

PVA the overlap of section you have just done to about 1.5 roller widths at least. else when you try to blend the section you have done will suck all the moisture out of the new plaster and it wont want to go thin.

Problem with using PVA is you may well end up with it on or just below the plaster surface which will play havoc with your paint finish. Blending in is possible for the experienced but, if not, your better off without the PVA & just using a water mist spray to control the suction (but don’t overdo it), then use a little filler & light sanding once it’s gone off.

 

[Micilin]

Problem with using PVA is you may well end up with it on or just below the plaster surface which will play havoc with your paint finish. Blending in is possible for the experienced but, if not, your better off without the PVA & just using a water mist spray to control the suction (but don’t overdo it), then use a little filler & light sanding once it’s gone off.

As Richard says, wet the joint and blend in.

Instead of using a stop bead, use a length of scrim/fibatape. Plaster half or so on to this, then after the second rub, peel it off to give you a nice straight joint , at the right thickness.

 

[Richard C]

Always more than one way to skin a cat

 

[roughcaster]

Always more than one way to skin a cat

What's the other way then Rich'???