Please help - plasterboard to brick wall...

[rarara]

Hi,

As part of a new kitchen I am going to get two 12"x12" walls skimmed since the previous units have left a few holes/marks. The plasterer said for me to prep the wall by first removing the wallpaper. This is proving to be a hellish job due to there being 2 seperate glossy painted coats of paper, and another one underneath that. I am making slow progress, so it seems to me it would be easier just to fit some 8x4 sheets of plasterboard instead. My question is:

Can I just attach the plasterboard mechanically to the wall???

I was expecting to find screws/masonry nails made for this purpose, but the only options discussed seem to be a) dot and bab, or b) fix battens - neither of which I want to do. Can't I just attach them without any gap - whats the problem with that? This is a sound internal wall of standard brick/plaster construction if it makes any difference.

Any advice appreciated.

Derek

 

[Micilin]

If you want to fix directly then nailable plugs are one way -

similar to these

http://www.condell-ltd.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=16232

 

[roughcaster]

There's another way you can attach plasterboard directly to a wall, and that's with grab adhesives,,,, such as "No more Nails", "Sticks Like ****", "Pink Grip", plus others,,,, all great products for that type of job.

 

[Richard C]

I would not advise just mechanically fixing PB to the wall; if the board isn’t fully supported & the wall less than flat, it will be all over the place it may not have enough support. You can close board using dot & dab method, just use smaller dabs. The existing surface needs to be reasonably flat though; but use 12.5mm boards, not 9.5mm. I would still use the nailable plugs or through frame fixings regardless of which adhesive you use as you will effectively just be sticking it to the wallpaper covering & relying on the bond between that & the plaster underneath.

 

[roughcaster]

I would not advise just mechanically fixing PB to the wall; if the board isn’t fully supported & the wall less than flat, it will be all over the place it may not have enough support. You can close board using dot & dab method, just use smaller dabs. The existing surface needs to be reasonably flat though; but use 12.5mm boards, not 9.5mm. I would still use the nailable plugs or through frame fixings regardless of which adhesive you use as you will effectively just be sticking it to the wallpaper covering & relying on the bond between that & the plaster underneath.

Good point Rich'.

 

[Micilin]

I would not advise just mechanically fixing PB to the wall; if the board isn’t fully supported & the wall less than flat, it will be all over the place it may not have enough support. You can close board using dot & dab method, just use smaller dabs. The existing surface needs to be reasonably flat though; but use 12.5mm boards, not 9.5mm. I would still use the nailable plugs or through frame fixings regardless of which adhesive you use as you will effectively just be sticking it to the wallpaper covering & relying on the bond between that & the plaster underneath.

Good point Rich'.

Yes indeed, the board you plug on will only follow the existing wall - check this first.

 

[roughcaster]

Looks like the good old days of mutual respect are returning to this Forum.

 

[rarara]

excellent - thanks for the replies. so the general thoughts are the drive-in masonry plugs are good for the job. excuse my ignorance, but does the hole have to be drilled first? that would make lining-up the holes pretty tricky on a large board!?

ok, only a few other questions remain:

what type of board to use? (baseboard, wallboard, plasterboard - tapered/square).

if i use 9.5mm (the wall is flat), how many plugs are needed for an 8x4 board that is going to be skimmed?

thanks

 

[stevethespreader]

whacking plasterboard up because of a bit of wall paper is Unnecessary in my oppinion it may be tedious scraping it off but the end result will be worth it, ive seen to many short cuts been taken when to get the best result something else should have been done but there wasent the time or money, this isent a site or sombody elses job its your house surly you can spend a bit of time scraping?

 

[Richard C]

so the general thoughts are the drive-in masonry plugs are good for the job. excuse my ignorance, but does the hole have to be drilled first? that would make lining-up the holes pretty tricky on a large board!?

This link should answer most of your questions; http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/SB07_DriLyner_02.pdf
but in your case I would use more than 2 nailable plugs per board; I’d nail on a grid of 300 x 300mm or I’ve used these for both PB & tile backer boards;
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...refview=search&ts=1290679865818&isSearch=true

drill small pilot holes where the dabs are so the adhesive oozes out; leave to set overnight & then drill & fix using the through fixings.

what type of board to use? (baseboard, wallboard, plasterboard - tapered/square).

Wallboard (it is plasterboard) square edge; you need a continuous adhesive bead around the board perimeter & any switch/socket cut outs; butt the boards close.

if i use 9.5mm (the wall is flat), how many plugs are needed for an 8x4 board that is going to be skimmed?

use 12.5mm boards, not 9.5mm.

9.5mm not good for walls or much else these days either.

 

[jrplastering]

why do we have to pick on people who cannot spell properly im just the same i struggle with grammer and spelling, i dnt understand why that means we should get a barrage of abuse trying to belittle u because we cant do everything a well a everyone else.
different people have different qualitys things they can do well someone esle might not be able to and vice versa.
it doent mean my post counts any less, i like to think i have given good advice in the time i have been a member here and the fact that i cannot spell a well a others does not make me any less of a person than some one who can spell really well.
sorry for the rant guys trying to keep it friendly it just gets to me when people pick of little things that some people struggle with, with no considderation for that persons situation and feelings.
it a shame this postwas ruined it was a good read and nice to see the forum getting back to the good old days

 

[roughcaster]

There's nothing wrong with yer spelling and grandma JR,,,,,,, now go and stand in the corner!!!

 

[jrplastering]

haha ive got the dunces hat warmed up and ready to go mate.
my spelling will be bad at the moment anyway ive just realised my s key does not work properly anymore and just realised i have to punch it down quite hard to get it working properly

 

[rarara]

whacking plasterboard up because of a bit of wall paper is Unnecessary in my oppinion it may be tedious scraping it off but the end result will be worth it, ive seen to many short cuts been taken when to get the best result something else should have been done but there wasent the time or money, this isent a site or sombody elses job its your house surly you can spend a bit of time scraping?

well, have tried removing the last layer of paper from a small area (the first few were already an undertaking) and its barely moving. so boards it is.

can someone tell me why 9.5mm isn't worthwhile? surely with a flat wall it shouldn't make a difference, plus it is cheaper, lighter and easier to work with? what is the point of 12mm in this case when its only going to be skimmed anyway?

 

[1john]

9mm board is weaker, alot more flexible, easily damaged when working with it and exactly how much cheaper is it? The cheapest option is to keep scoring the wall paper with a stanly knife and keep sponging it down with warm/hot water, but thats just my opinion. You can use 9mm board but no one on here will reccomend it. Good luck with the project.