cheapest and the best option, are you using a wall paper stripper by any chance? a steamer?, im in the middle of refitting my kitchen as well and have just scraped 3 walls of old skim off which was painted with oil base eggshell it took me ages reason i done it is because a lot of it wasn't stuck properly, its all about perseverance im sure your old wall paper would succum to a bit of steam from a steamer which you can buy for about £20
Please help - plasterboard to brick wall...
- Thread starter rarara
- Start date
Sponsored Links
If you are tempted to use a steamer, be very careful how you use it. They can be very good at removing all sorts of stuff, including the plaster skim coat
. Over zealous use or leaving it in the same place too long will pop the skim off the base (you can hear it happening). It may not matter or may even be the intention if you’re going to re-skim but a real bummer your not; but I guarantee you will only make the mistake once. yep ive removed a few walls of skim with the steamer "intentionally", but on this kitchen the steam wouldent penitrate the oil base paint so i had to hack it all off manually a right pain it wasIf you are tempted to use a steamer, be very careful how you use it. They can be very good at removing all sorts of stuff, including the plaster skim coat
ok, so i have the boards fixed to the wall, using a combo of one tube of no-nails and several drive-in fixings per boards. the nature of the fixings mean that (the ones which were not overhit and punctured the board) the sleeve and screw head protrude by up to 2 or 3mm.
will this be ok for my plasterer to skim over with these sticking out? do they need to be taped first, and if so, will i just leave that for him to do? (there are a lot, so thought i could do it in prep to save some time)
and punctured the board) the sleeve and screw head protrude by up to 2 or 3mm.will this be ok for my plasterer to skim over with these sticking out? do they need to be taped first, and if so, will i just leave that for him to do? (there are a lot, so thought i could do it in prep to save some time)
Sponsored Links
You only used one tube no nails
(not the best choice of grip adhesive anyway IMO); how many boards did you fix with one tube? Why did you not use drywall adhesive, that would have been a much better choice & it’s what it’s designed for! How many is “several”? Did you use nailable or screw "through" fixings? How many per board? I’d be concerned that the boards are securely fixed.Protruding fixings are going to make plastering very difficult & the possibility of your plasterer severely damaging his trowel. You need to get the fixings flush with the board; they should also have been driven through the adhesive dabs not unsupported board. 3mm is also getting very near skim plaster depth & the plaster will be prone to cracking around the fixing head.the nature of the fixings mean that (the ones which were not overhit
will this be ok for my plasterer to skim over with these sticking out? do they need to be taped first, and if so, will i just leave that for him to do? (there are a lot, so thought i could do it in prep to save some time)
Personally I wouldn’t be happy plastering a wall with protruding fixings & I always prefer to do my own prep to ensure it's correcly done; I probably wouldn’t touch it.
Ahh maybe; if so my mistake
Expensive way of doing it though.did you really find sticking plasterboard up with nailable fixings easier that scraping wall paper off? you have left loads of nails prodruding by up to 3 mm, which if you asked the plasterer to sort out could double what he is charging you, also sounds like you have driven some in to far damaging the boards, all this for the sake of a bit of wall paper?
there are two walls - one with an IMPOSSIBLE to remove wallpaper/varnish/paint combo. I used a steamer in another room for a very easy job and it was causing small imperfections to show in the ceiling plaster, so wasn't prepared to potentially create a whole lot more with a stubborn job in this room. as for the other wall (the only one with the new boards attached) - i needed to cover an old range, a defunct door, box in a boiler etc so it was easier in some ways just to board the whole wall rather than several areas. maybe if the plasterers i got round initially had then got back to me with estimates etc i could have left them to do the whole job, rather than having to get on with things myself!
ok, so there are some nail heads sticking out, but surely a plasterers job is to cover imperfections in any wall?!?
ok, so there are some nail heads sticking out, but surely a plasterers job is to cover imperfections in any wall?!?
if you was getting the walls skimmed anyway it wont matter that the steamer is leaving imperfections, also a plasterer will not be able to skim over nails that are protuding by 3 mil, you have nails and the plugs prodruding, normally you would get the old clout nail or you could just whack with your lath hammer or if its a screw use your drilll, but lots of nailable fixings with plugs is a different story it looks like you may have whacked them in as far as they can go and that is why they are sticking out, can you post some pictures up of how bad it is?
no, the steamer was affecting the ceiling - even with a good through draught.
i could probably whack the fixing in to be flush, but that would destroy their strength, so I would be totally relying on the adhesive in the places where there are no drywall screws/wood underneath. i dare say it would be ok, but not worth the risk
if 3mm is not skimmable, what is the next 'level' or thickness of plastering job to cover?
i could probably whack the fixing in to be flush, but that would destroy their strength, so I would be totally relying on the adhesive in the places where there are no drywall screws/wood underneath. i dare say it would be ok, but not worth the risk
if 3mm is not skimmable, what is the next 'level' or thickness of plastering job to cover?
You’re missing the point; with protruding fixings, you run a big risk of catching the trowel edge no matter what thickness of plaster your laying on unless you want to go with an initial 6mm+ layer of Bonding then skim; a bit excessive for boards! You may not appreciate that a trowel is precision tool to a decent spread which "wears in" to the user & even a pre-worn one can take weeks even months to break in; damage the edge on a screw head & it’ll be totally forked which = one very unhappy plasterer; it's not like a hammer or screw driver where you can just get another out of the bag! Either whack/drive the fixings in flush, replace so they are flush or be prepared to pay your spread extra to sort it out for you which may be the best bet as he will get it right.
i would also add to this that if the screws or nails are not level with board the plaster on top will be more likely to pop
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
