Plugs for integrated appliances.

[BMcN]

I am putting in a new kitchen and was wondering what my options are for wiring in integrated appliances.

I have plugs behind where the dishwasher, fridge, freezer and washer will be but obviously not very practical to plug in to here.

I guess the proper way is to extend the ring to include a FSU above the worktop for each1. However this would mean ripping the plasterboard off all walls and not the most aesthetically pleasing with all those neon switches.

Would it be acceptable to plug into the existing sockets and extend these to a pattress box in the cupboard beside each appliance?

 

[Taylortwocities]

The proper way is to have an isolator (could be an FCU) above the appliance and a flex outlet either behind or beside the appliance. FCUs do not need to have neons in them.
You're going to have to chop stuff around if you are putting a new kitchen.

There will be a fuse in the FCU so yiou do not need a fused plug for the appliance. If its behind the washing machine etc then it will be for sure to be the fuse that goes.
Try moving a washing machine that is full of water and soggy clothes....

re

Would it be acceptable to plug into the existing sockets and extend these to a pattress box in the cupboard beside each appliance?

No! You'll have a non accessible fuse and yet another fuse in the plug from the appliance. Also please note that you would need to to have a separate extension of each circuit or the fuse and/or socket will be overloaded if you run two appliances from the same extension.

Either do it properly or not at all.

By the way, where in the UK are you? If in the England & Wales you should note that all electrical work in a kitchen is notifiable BEFORE YOU START WORK.....
Please read //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p:diy_electrical_work_and_the_law for details.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

theres nothing wrong with the socket in a cupboard, subject to a few considerations. However, as TTC says, your method will still result in an inaccessible fuse.

If you are replacing the kitchen, patching a bit of plasterboard is only a small job.

A bit more effort now might save you a lot more effort in the future.

 

[tonylec]

There is nothing electrically or legally wrong with your suggestion of an extension lead into a fixed socket in a cupboard, yes it's true there is an inaccessible fuse behind the appliance, aside from that it's a fairly good option for DIY with minimal mess.

You could make up the extensions from a length of flex (min 1.5mm2) a plug, a standard single or double outlet, a nylon conduit patress and a stuffing gland to give a strain guard where the flex enters the socket patress.

This is not a notifiable work because you are not in any way interfering with the fixed installation, what you are making classes as an appliance.

 

[BMcN]

Scotland, Taylortwocities.

There are a few sockets near by so I can probably spur off those and include 2 of the FSUs in the ring without taking all the plasterboard off.

What is the best way to come off the FSU? T&E to a socket in the cupboard? Or to an unswitched socket behind?

 

[tonylec]

Spur to a socket in the cupboard if you are using a 13A type because you still have that plug fuse, failing that you can use either a cord outlet plate behind the appliance or a 15A round pin plug and socket with no fuse (the fusing is in the FCU) behind the appliance.

However any combination of this IS notifiable

 

[BMcN]

Spur to a socket in the cupboard if you are using a 13A type because you still have that plug fuse, failing that you can use either a cord outlet plate behind the appliance or a 15A round pin plug and socket with no fuse (the fusing is in the FCU) behind the appliance.

However any combination of this IS notifiable

What is the idea behind the 15A round pin? Just to bring it above the 13A so its the FSU fuse that blows?

Do you leave the flex below trailing to make sure the appliance doesnt hit the plug or is it best having a fixed plate?

Am I right that this is not noticeable in Scotland?

 

[tonylec]

No, we use 15amp plugs and sockets as disconnectors in situations where you don't want a fuse because the plug is to be out of reach and the fuse is elsewhere (theatre lighting being the most prolific example). The 15amp only refers to its maximum rating, if its fused at 13A at the FCU then thats as high as you can go, it won't make your machine draw any more current.

i'd do it this way because then when you pull out the machine for servicing you can simply unplug it, rather than fiddling with a flex plate.

Sorry no idea on elec regs in scotland, think they are tighter than they are down here.

 

[skenk]

If the property is a 3-storey+ house or flat then technically you need a building warrant to do this work, if not then you're free to DIY.

Not sure why you would have to rip down the plasterboard? usually there is a cavity behind which you can feed cables in (beware of thermal insulation . . .).

if you are in work and have other things to do in your spare time (or overtime available) it may be more economical to employ someone else to do this work.

 

[skenk]

You could make up the extensions from a length of flex (min 1.5mm2) a plug, a standard single or double outlet, a nylon conduit patress and a stuffing gland to give a strain guard where the flex enters the socket patress.

This is not a notifiable work because you are not in any way interfering with the fixed installation, what you are making classes as an appliance.

No idea what a 'nylon conduit patress' is (neither, it seems, does google) but, i believe, any extension to the fixed wiring (eg flex clipped to a wall) is notifiable in England and Wales. If you mean make up an extension lead then I guess that wouldn't be notifiable.

 

[sparkwright]

This project is getting too complicated than it needs to be.

Forget that 15 amp plug idea.

Why would you have to rip the plasterboard off all the walls?

Generally with plasterboard there is a void in places where wires can be passed through and boxes cut into with minimal damage.

If it really is out of the question to fit switched fused spurs (or similar) to the wall then extend the wiring that is behind the appliances to inside the cupboards. Make sure it's done correctly with regard to ring circuits, number of spurs etc etc.

Then drill large round holes with a hole-saw through the cupboard back for the plug of the appliance to be passed through.

Of course, this suggestion will now create uproar about sockets fitted to the cupboards themselves. You could cut a section of the back out and fit the socket to the wall. Looks messy though.

Obviously though, it really is best to have isolation switches above the worktop where they are accessible in emergency, and for anyone who doesn't know where to turn them off.

 

[RF Lighting]

Personally I don't have an issue with the plug being behing the appliance as lont as there is an accessible isolator.

Fuses don't just go. If the fuse has gone, there is a fault with the appliance, and it will need pulling out anyway, so the fact the plug is behind it is no great shakes.

 

[sparkwright]

As rf says, there's no problem with the plug behind the appliance and a point of isolation somewhere, except with integrated appliances the plug plugged in the wall often prevents it being pushed back fully.

 

[BMcN]

As rf says, there's no problem with the plug behind the appliance and a point of isolation somewhere, except with integrated appliances the plug plugged in the wall often prevents it being pushed back fully.

Thanks guys, I think spurring to a plug in the cupboard and/or extending one of the doubles behind to inside is going to be best for me.

Is there a nice or recommended way to come into the cupboard from the wall? Into a blank on the wall for example? Then maybe into some mini trunking along the inside of the cupboard and into a pattress?