Plumber telling me porkies? Drayton ZA5 dud needs full drain

[nickso]

sounds like it. what clock do you have?

 

[jdamnation]

Hmm - clock.

Looks just like this one:

 

[nickso]

they can stick on and leave the valve open.

you really need to get a multimeter and test the voltage at the clock and the valve before we can go any further.

at least you know you don't need an overpriced draindown.

 

[jdamnation]

Hmm - so you are saying these Drayton control jobbies are basically doing a crap job of either not sending the motor power when I want it (to open it) or not removing power when I don't want it (making it 'stick open') which was our problem.

It is likely it might do this just for the CH?

Remember the HW part of it seems to work fine...

Could I be looking at a new control panel box then?

JD

 

[Agile]

ou seemed to be saying the valve moves!

In that case the motor works and is receiving power!

The microswitch is not operating and the head only needs to be replaced.

Thats my £144 job!

Tony

 

[nickso]

they are a good clock but the relays can stick on giving permanent 240v to one or both channels.

difficult to say exactly what's going on now unless you can confirm 240v at the valve and clock. if you can't you could swap the clock channels round which may make the HW act faulty.

 

[jdamnation]

To recap:

1) Power is going to the motor
2) Actuator is not turning when CH is switched on
3) Valve is turnable by hand
4) Actuator is manually switchable to 'B' and stays there so long as there is power
5) Valve closes to 'A' position when power removed.

JD

 

[jdamnation]

Got a multimeter - but checking the clock power to the CH motor.. I have to open the control panel thing up, with everything switched on?



JD

 

[namsag]

Things slack Agile that uou have to tout for work on the internet

 

[nickso]

Got a multimeter - but checking the clock power to the CH motor.. I have to open the control panel thing up, with everything switched on?



JD

wiring centre is the best place to check 240v from clock.

check the valve 240v by opening it. you should get 240v across the two terminals which have orange wires going to the motor. if there is 240v there but the motor doesn't move then its goosed.

 

[jdamnation]

Hmm - the HW one has now decided to go back to the A position, even though it's supposed to be on all the time.

Is this normal?

JD

 

[namsag]

If cylinder stat is satisfied then HW one will return to rest position

 

[jdamnation]

Crumbs.

What a mess.....

 

[Beerlover]

Crumbs.


What a mess.....

You're kidding wait 'til you see a load of single connector blocks squeezed into a single deep patress box

To replace the head isolate the power and follow rhe five core cable back. cut this and replace the wires like for like, one by one.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

i haven't read the whole thread but it sounds like the timer.
if ya haven't got a multimeter to check the voltages ya could disconnect the brown wire to the ch actuator and see if the head remains in the a pos and that the boiler doesn't fire