plumbing college students

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is there any plumbing college students on here just out of interest as I'm struggling with my write ups for the practical tasks, especially the lead weathering set
 
ive tried that website our college gave it to us and said all the information you want will be on there...but i cant find anything.

basically im doing nvq level 2 basic plumbing, which is a 2 year course, and they give you an orange book which quite a few different taks in it. ive performed all the tasks in the plumbing workshop getting photographs etc, now i need a summary description! ive done a summary description for a few of the tasks but our teacher has told us we have 1 week remaining untill the iv comes to mark it all and i havnt done the summary description for my lead weathering set REF. SW-6 in the book.

front apron
back gutter
soakers
cover flashing
side flashing
i basically have to talk about the above items but i didnt take any interest in lead work as i hated it.
 
I don't know of any plumbers who do that type of work these days. Do they really still teach it as part of plumbing in colleges?
 
All i done for my level 2 was a procedure.
i had 1 bossed corner (apron), and 1 lead welded(back gutter).
Step flashing was so simple, took 15 mins from a paper template.

I guess you still have templpates marked out, use them as evidence.

Have you sat your lead weathering test yet ?.

hope that helps.

Alan
 
I remember wasting about 8 weeks last year on lead bashing at college. I wish I had spent the time learning about plumbing problems in the real world. I was lucky in that I had been plumbing for some time at a DIY level so had a bit of a start but there were some students who spent half the term bashing lead but never got to install a bath.

We all hated lead work. If we had wanted to do lead work we would have joined a roofing course.

I will have a look to see if I can find any notes.
 
thank you so much for the replys.

yes i have passed the exam, and no i dont have the templates that i made and used, its such a long time ago that i did the lead work i cant remember how i did it as i dont do lead at work etc. im really stuck, ive got to right an introduction, a summary description of what i did, and a conclusion along with tools materials and safety. i just dont no what to put for my summary report that needs to be aprox 500 words
 
They still teach lead work. What a waste. We were taught sheet copper, ali and zinc work too. that was so valuable in the real world. It's a shame that the roofers have taken over doing lead work. Most of them are untrained and not too good at it.
 
It must surely be in books in the college library. I remember some particularly pretty and seriously expensive LSA books which went into detail.
80 odd words per sheet doesn't seem much. By the time you've done a sized sketch of what flat sheet you started with, shown how you marked it, what direction you worked it with which tool, an intermediate freehand sketch or two, you're there.
Can you pretend you welded say the back gutter if you can't remember how you bossed it?
 
Very bad news in my view but they STILL teach it !!!

Nigel F has ( mostly ) retired and should have done it moons ago!

DIA has presumably also done it but is getting a bit slow to respond these days.

I am sure there are lots of second hand books covering it.

In the real world where I live roofing is done by builders or specialist roofers. As an excercise I once called 10 members of the IPHE and NONE of them were willing to give a quote for some lead flashing in Leamington !

Tony
 
chrishutt said:
I don't know of any plumbers who do that type of work these days. Do they really still teach it as part of plumbing in colleges?
:shock: bloody cheek :lol: :lol:........Trouble is I`m hopeless @ maths and figures so I kind of blagged measuring and such :oops: I can remember a soaker is Gauge+ lap+ 1 inch for clay tiles :roll: Back gutter has the roof angl cut out on the side . `twas all done by eye and no-one knew :lol: :lol: Also did most of my smallbore copper the same .bent offsets by eye :wink:
 
Hope this helps. As I was reading through this it made no sense at all which proves what a total waste of time it all was bit hope fully you can use the following to jog your memory of what you did and elaborate where necessary. Here goes......

SOAKERS
Code 3
Cut lead to size
Length of soaker = guage+lap+25mm
Minimum 75mm upstand marked and dressed into position
25mm fixing turned in

STEP FLASHINGS
Code 4
Cut lead to correct length
Marked water line along length (65mm)
Offered lead up to chimney stack on top of tiles
Marked postion of brick course onto lead
Two piece rule used to find roof pitch
Angle transfered to to lead and steps drawn
25mm 'turn in' added for fixing
cut along each step line
Fixing tabs turned in into position

FRONT APRON
Code 5
Cut lead to length
Fold lines marked onto lead
Angle of roof pitch marked onto lead
Corners rounded to remove excess due to bossing
Upstand folded up
Corners bossed to angle of roof
25mm 'turn in' added

BACK GUTTER
Code 5
Lead cut to correct size
Fold lines marked on lead
Cut along lines at each end by 150mm
Lead folded to create gutter sole ( at roof angle )
Sides dressed back to correct angle
Gussets welded in position at each end using butt welds

FIXING
Completed chimney flashings fixed into position

Soakers laid onto first tile at bottom front of chimney and bent over batten for fixing. tile laid on top then soaker and so on until sides of chimney are completed

front apron positioned onto stack and turned into mortar joints. fixed using pieces of lead rolled up and pushed into gaps. Fresh mortar added to finish

step flashings fixed tabs positioned into mortar joints

Back gutter positioned at rear of stack covering step flashings. Fixed into mortar joints.


LEAD SLATE
Code 4
Lead cut to size
Lead rolled around pipe to form a tube
Butt welded along join
Oxyacetylene equipement checked for leaks using leak detection fluid. Flame adjusted to neutral flame. Meeting lead surfaces shaved to clean approx 6mm, tack welds applied, nozzle held at 60 deg and molten lead pool allowed to form. Shaved filler rod then melted to mix with pool. Repeated along lenght of join.

Lead tube cut at angle at one end ( roof pitch)
Cut edge dressed to form a flat flange
position of hole marked onto the base
Lead cleaned with shave hook where weld is to be, allowing for underlap of 25mm
Tube then welded to centre of base
( First weld made to join the two sheets of lead together allowing some lead to disappear so a second weld is added to reinforce it)
Tube tested for water tightness
Hole melted through back using the oxyacetylene equipement
 
All makes sense to me :lol: What doesn`t make sense is that unless your covered with paper certificates you`re reduced to bath tap changes .Bloody good job I`m semi-retired..the craft has gone out of a trade I was proud to do..............I would copy what squeaky has written and pad it out a bit :wink: Then leave the leadwork to the itinerant ladder gangs :lol: And the graft to the Poles
 

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