Plumbing fittings help needed !

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Hi Wonder if anyone can help - I'm trying to work out what type of couplings I need, to attach 22mm copper pipe to a plate heat exchanger I recently bought.

The PHE has 3/4" male BSP outlets, fairly short, with flat faces.

I bought some 3/4" female BSP -> 22mm compression couplings, but the threads are longer than the outlet threads on the PHE, so they just bottom out on the body of the PHE.

Some pics:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5309279811_1f0079e62b_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5309282035_05f17f30f0_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5309869038_7316508dff_b.jpg

Any thoughts ?
Is there something similar to a tap connector that would work ?

Thanks for any help !
 
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Hi if you can get hold of any most boilers have a swivel connections for the flow and returns which would do you or you could use 22mm swivels and cut off the shoulder and use fibre washers
 
Got some of that L55 you have on the hex threads, use it right and with a smear of jointing paste, if it leaks I'll eat my hat
 
SOme 3/4 female connectors have flat bottoms inside for washers - which you can double up if necessary.
Otherwise, use the Loctite 55, which is probably the easiest answer,
or cut off the end of the female fitting.
Often things like boiler unions have the flat face you need, but tap connectors are likely to have ridges you don't want.
For tap water connections you can use flexy tap connectors of course, but most hoses of that type aren't designed for 80 degree CH water.
 
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3/4 tap swivels, cut & file of ridge (seconds with new blade) nice fat washers, job done.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Got some of that L55 you have on the hex threads, use it right and with a smear of jointing paste, if it leaks I'll eat my hat

How exactly would you go about making the joint then (bit of a plumbing novice, so don't assume I know anything!) ?

The Loctite 55 container suggests something like 7 or 8 turns on a 3/4" fitting.
Would I still expect to turn the fitting all the way until it hits the body of the HEX ? Or would the string make it tighten up before then ?
And where would I smear the jointing paste, just generally over the string ?

I bought the Loctite 55 after reading lots of recommendations online of how effective it was, so I might give this a go.

Cheers for all the input.
 
Yeah 8 turns on this should be enough, there's no real issue with putting a bit more on but too much will overstress things. Smear the jointing paste all around the thread after you've applied the L55, and make sure you apply the L55 in a clockwise direction or it'll be less effective. It doesn't need winding all the way down, you'll find it tightens up naturally anyway although it will never go rigid.
 
Yeah 8 turns on this should be enough, there's no real issue with putting a bit more on but too much will overstress things. Smear the jointing paste all around the thread after you've applied the L55, and make sure you apply the L55 in a clockwise direction or it'll be less effective. It doesn't need winding all the way down, you'll find it tightens up naturally anyway although it will never go rigid.
Thanks for that. I'll give it a go.

Think it'll stand up to 5-6m head of water above it ?
 
Interesting project, what are you making?
Well...

I've been doing a selfbuild project over the last few years, house is a mix of 1, 2 and 3 storey.
I have an open-vented heat bank (or thermal store, seems people use the terms interchangeably) on the ground floor.
I have UFH (8 zones) on the ground floor fed from the store, which is working fine.
Plan is to have rads on middle & top floors, fed from the store, but haven't plumbed these in yet.

However, the open-vented store means the F&E tank has to be very high up in the house, to be above the highest radiator.

I've not felt too comfortable with the tank being so high in the house, in case it ever leaks - the amount of damage water could cause running down 3 storeys doesn't bear thinking about, and no doubt if it did ever happen it'd be while on holiday etc.

So I thought that I could split the rad circuit by means of a plate heat exchanger, and run them as a pressurised system, while the store remains vented.
I can then move the F&E tank downstairs and have it just above the store.
Makes life much easier too if ever draining/filling the store, rather than running up & down 3 floors....
Also means a seperate system in terms of inhibitor, future flushing etc etc.

So there you go, the plate heat exchanger will sit near the store, and the primary will just feed from & return to the store.

Inspired by the efficient time & temp control I get from the UFH zones, I'm doing the same with the rads. So for example, if me or the Mrs is working from home during the day, we can just turn on a rad in the office without the rest of the rads running. I also hope to link in with the home automation system - using information from occupancy sensors around the house, so for example if there hasn't been any movement on the top floor in the previous X hours, don't run the top floor towel rails etc etc.
I'll have Heatmiser PRT programmable stats in each room, and individual valves controlling each rad. Also means the pump(s) will only run when a room is calling for heat. No central stat or bypass needed either.
Not decided whether to run them all off a manifold yet, UFH stylee, or a more conventional pipework run with 2-port valves to each rad - manifolds are much neater and have flow valves to allow easy balancing etc, but the central location means more pipework needs running. The more conventional system might be easier in terms of pipework, but the 2-port valves will probably be dearer than the manifold-style valves. Need to add up all the costs. Ultimately I don't think there's a great deal in it.

There, glad you asked eh :)

Keeps my mind active & gives me an excuse to buy a few new toys and learn a few new skills on the way !
 
Back again...

Was browsing through the BES catalogue and I noticed item 13753:

http://www.bes.co.uk/products/095a.asp#13753

3/4" BSP to 22mm compression, 19mm bore, up to 85ºc and 10bar, and 300mm long.

Would probably make installation a bit easier too.

Thoughts ?
Are the 3/4" swivel connections likely to pop straight on ?
 

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