Plywood & Plasterboard vs Home Cinema

[RiDo]

Good Afternoon All,

My first post here, but first of all I'd like to say there's a huge amount of helpful information on here from you guys!

This is my first project in my first house. It's a new-build property and I'm planning on putting a basic cinema system in the lounge. It'll include a 65in TV (21kg), an IKEA BESTA cabinet 180x40x0 (upto 50kg) and a 5.1 speaker system (6kg/ speaker) when I can afford it.

Lounge XTZ2

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

20180619_135040

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

Rough sketch for the plans.

I was able to get one of the contractors on site to cut a hole in the plasterboard, and affix some 12mm (maybe 15mm) plywood with steel angles, and then reapply the plasterboard. What's not shown in the photos is the OSB instead of plywood behind where the TV will hopefully be mounted and fixed in the same way. The white plastic is a conduit for cables.

BEFORE

20180620_120335

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

Plasterboard cut out

AFTER

20180620_153001

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

Plywood fixed

Owing to the mount I've bought, I can only get the brackets across 1 stud. But behind the rest of the mounting holes, there is OSB. It is however a cantilever mount so I'm looking for the strongest possible way of mounting it.

Screen Shot 2018-07-17 At 13.45.27

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

So I wanted some advice as to how to mount the items. I was thinking about using cabinet hangers for the IKEA BESTA.

Locksonline_29041915P1-500x500

• RiDo
• 17 Jul 2018

Cabinet hanger

But for the speakers and TV, I'm a little lost. I was planning on using snap toggles or spring toggles, but I don't think there will be enough space behind to get them through. Any other advice is really appreciated.

Thank you!

RiDo

 

[Lucid]

Unless there's some specific reason why it has to be that particular bracket, you could save yourself a lot of grief by simply swapping the existing cantilever bracket for something with a much larger footprint for the wall. That way you have a better chance of straddling two studs.

Speakers designed for on-wall mounting will have key hole slots in the back panel. All you need to is ensure a suitable sized screwhead protrudes.

Plasterboard fixings: For light stuff such as the speakers up to 5kg per keyhole then I've always found these Fischer fixings more than sufficient LINK.
For heavier stuff then Rawlplug hollow-wall anchors haven't ever let me down. LINK. I use then with the setting tool so that they grip the wall before I start applying much in the way of torque to cinch them up. I prefer these to toggle bolts simply because more times than not there's a need to unscrew the bolt all the way out to fit or adjust something. With toggle bolts the toggle falls off the end so you need to use a new fixing.

Something relatively new that I haven't tried yet is the Gripit fixings. They get good reviews. They're easy to fit using a spade bit on a drill. They're removable too. LINK

The obvious caveat with any plasterboard fixing is that it is only as strong as the board it is screwed to. All the capacities are given for static loads. Your Besta cupboards might be 50 kg, but add the weight of any items it stores plus the pressure from people leaning on it and the weight can go up quite a bit. Plasterboard is only so strong. Try tio get some fixings in to the studs.

 

[RiDo]

Unless there's some specific reason why it has to be that particular bracket, you could save yourself a lot of grief by simply swapping the existing cantilever bracket for something with a much larger footprint for the wall. That way you have a better chance of straddling two studs.

Speakers designed for on-wall mounting will have key hole slots in the back panel. All you need to is ensure a suitable sized screwhead protrudes.

Plasterboard fixings: For light stuff such as the speakers up to 5kg per keyhole then I've always found these Fischer fixings more than sufficient LINK.
For heavier stuff then Rawlplug hollow-wall anchors haven't ever let me down. LINK. I use then with the setting tool so that they grip the wall before I start applying much in the way of torque to cinch them up. I prefer these to toggle bolts simply because more times than not there's a need to unscrew the bolt all the way out to fit or adjust something. With toggle bolts the toggle falls off the end so you need to use a new fixing.

Something relatively new that I haven't tried yet is the Gripit fixings. They get good reviews. They're easy to fit using a spade bit on a drill. They're removable too. LINK

The obvious caveat with any plasterboard fixing is that it is only as strong as the board it is screwed to. All the capacities are given for static loads. Your Besta cupboards might be 50 kg, but add the weight of any items it stores plus the pressure from people leaning on it and the weight can go up quite a bit. Plasterboard is only so strong. Try tio get some fixings in to the studs.

Hi Lucid,

Unfortunately I would really like it to be that bracket. It's the official mount for the TV, but it's also the slimmest cantilever mount I can find. The decent ones are extremely expensive and are very thick.

Thanks for the advice on the plasterboard fixings. However everywhere I'm planning on mounting has been strengthened by the ply or OSB. There should be almost no points where I'm affixing straight to the plasterboard. Would you suggest using the fixings you've mentioned or wood screws?

As far as the Besta is concerned, the actual weight of the stand is pretty low, around 10kg. I've estimated 50kg with all the equipment in it; AV Receiver, PS4, Sky, etc etc.

Besta will be fixed to PLY+PLASTERBOARD and the STUDS
TV will be mounted on a bracket which is fixed to 1 stud and OSB
The speakers will be mounted on PLY+PLASTERBOARD.



I'm still seeking some help on the following:

- What screws/ fixings do I use to screw into the plasterboard and ply?
- Would I need to drill pilot holes for the screws? (I was planning on doing so for the screws into the studs)

Thanks

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/plywood-osb-plasterboard-vs-home-cinema.505863/#ixzz5LafcB23z