Poor resistance rest

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I presume it has dried out , as cooker has not tripped the RCD for some time. 8 months have passed since the flood occured. My concern it the cooker had previously failed the original test, but we are still using the cooker. The Insurance company "More Than" still say that we are still covered, if the cooker fails etc.

Now there asking for another third party to test the cooker!!! How many people are going to do this test? I may also employ someone else to do an additional test. At the moment 6 companies have been involved with our claim. Now the new independent complaint company want to employ another electrical test and a glazing company, to assess and repair our front door. The door was previously damaged by the technician who supposed to have retested the cooker. Never did nothing. Loss adjusters very reluctant to send me a copy of the report.

If water has ingressed within the cooker electrics, which are throughout the cooker. Would the connection become weak and become corroded ect.
If this the case, how much would it cost to rewire a Rangemaster 110 Classic?
 
I'm having ongoing issues with my insurance company, and the loss adjuster.

This is regarding a leak/flood from our kitchen stop cock. The "wife's washing machine and tumble dryer failed a test, conducted by Rainbow Flood management. Unfortunately they failed to test our range cooker which was sighted close to the wife's appliances.

The loss adjusters told us to arrange for the cooker to be tested. The report was tested failed on resistance.
The loss adjusters need to know if vhe cooker could be repaired, as we are having contact issues with appointef electrician.

The loss adjuster appointed a 3rd party to retest the cooker 8 months after the water leak/flood. Electrical Logistics technician reported back that the cooker passed the testing. The technician never used his electrical meter, or even switched on the electricity to the cooker????

The washing machine and tumble dryer got replaced, instead of being repaired.

Any ideas on the cooker??


I presume it has dried out , as cooker has not tripped the RCD for some time. 8 months have passed since the flood occured. My concern it the cooker had previously failed the original test, but we are still using the cooker. The Insurance company "More Than" still say that we are still covered, if the cooker fails etc.

Now there asking for another third party to test the cooker!!! How many people are going to do this test? I may also employ someone else to do an additional test. At the moment 6 companies have been involved with our claim. Now the new independent complaint company want to employ another electrical test and a glazing company, to assess and repair our front door. The door was previously damaged by the technician who supposed to have retested the cooker. Never did nothing. Loss adjusters very reluctant to send me a copy of the report.

If water has ingressed within the cooker electrics, which are throughout the cooker. Would the connection become weak and become corroded ect.
If this the case, how much would it cost to rewire a Rangemaster 110 Classic?

The first post of this thread was "today" but the "report" of the fault conditions first found was dated 9/12/2016.

However "it has dried out , as cooker has not tripped the RCD for some time. 8 months have passed since the flood occured."

It is quite likely that the elements in the cooker are of the construction that is TradeNamed "Calrod Elements".
In these the "mid-layer between the resistance wire and the outer sheath is usually ceramic (ceramic powder, to be exact). The ceramic powder is tightly packed into the tube so that it completely separates the resistance wire from the steel outer shell. Ceramic is a great conductor of heat, but is an insulator to electricity, making it a perfect material for this application." (Reference https://www.quora.com/Whats-the-electrical-insulation-on-stove-top-heating-elements-made-out-of)

However, if the "element" is not completely sealed, water (or even humid air) can wet this ceramic powder insulation and cause the tripping of RCDs, due to the leakage to earth.

If the cooker has worked and heated up the elements concerned (and dried them out in the process), it is unlikely that there will be any further problems. While it may be possible that the Nichrome (or other) wire which comprises the actual heating elements has "become weak and become corroded etc." it seems unlikely that after the eight months of drying out that this would be a problem. Even if it does become a problem, it is only likely to affect the heating elements themselves - one at a time.
 
If the cooker has worked and heated up the elements concerned (and dried them out in the process), it is unlikely that there will be any further problems.
I have found that a element which has absorbed water and then been dried out tends to do it again, they are hygroscopic that is they attract water, often you can switch the element on and then after a short time it will trip as the heat pushes the moisture around the element. It is unlikely the element will dry out on it's own accord, to dry them out normally they need heating up, so if the problem has cured its self then likely it was not the element which got wet but some other part of the cooker.

Although you can use a meter to test insulation, because you have RCD protection and because when the cooker is switched on it can move water around likely switching the cooker on and seeing it works is a better test to using a meter, once every element has been running for 15 minutes each likely any water will have been driven out, and even if the element ends are damaged and it can re-absorb water one is unlikely to be able to show there is a fault, and as long as the cooker is used on a regular basis it is unlikely to cause any further problem. When the problem seems to show its self is after a holiday when the cooker has not been used for some time.

As I have said if its dried out on its own accord, it is unlikely that the water got into the element, for other water problems using an insulation tester is good, they use 500 volt for the test, so should find any problems. The testing form has changed, V1.2 form caused me a problem as it does not have a signature on in any more, but be it old or new the two resistance measurements are recorded, of course every element must be switched on to measure, although likely an earth - neutral measurement will test all, one can't assume single pole switching.
 
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I presume it has dried out , as cooker has not tripped the RCD for some time. 8 months have passed since the flood occured. My concern it the cooker had previously failed the original test, but we are still using the cooker.
It got wet causing a fault. Then it dried out, the fault has gone.

I may also employ someone else to do an additional test.
Total waste of time and money. Don't.

If water has ingressed within the cooker electrics, which are throughout the cooker. Would the connection become weak and become corroded ect.
Possibly - but that would have happened 8 months ago. It didn't, because you are still using it.

Now the new independent complaint company want to employ another electrical test and a glazing company, to assess and repair our front door. The door was previously damaged by the technician who supposed to have retested the cooker.
Get them to repair the door. Forget about the cooker and who may or may not have tested it.
 
This was the false report submitted by Electrical Logistics.. The technician never put the electrical supply on...I agree the stopcock didn't spray like a hose pipe, but the appliances sat in a damp area for several weeks. That's why the the Wife's!!! Washing machine and tumble dryer failed a PAT Test...

MODEL: CLASSIC 110
Incident: there was a slow leak from the stop cock in the kitchen. It was leaking
under the laminate floor, the customer became aware because she tripped over the
laminated floor where is has lifted up. Once the laminated floor had been removed
they saw the damage to the floor. The washer and dryer were tested and have
already been replaced.
Inspection Comments: the customer has stated the cooker tripped the house
electrics intermittently. Having tested the cooker and it worked and electrics did
not trip. I stripped the back pane off and there has been no liquid ingress to the
cooker. It is not possible for water leak to have got into the cooker electrics. The
water was under the laminated floor and the electrics in the cooker are at least 6
inches up. Also the cooker is over 6 foot away from where the leak was. Any fault is
a wear tear issue with the cooker. The cooker worked fine whilst I was there and allin
 
If it is working properly now then it is working. Advantage of older kit is there aren't pesky PCBs full of small vulnerable components and tracks at different potentials only millimetres apart. And even then it continues to surprise me how robust modern electrical stuff can be- as long as it is clean water and the thing wasn't powered up when it got wet and is allowed to dry fully then many items will survive a drenching quite happily.

From that report it surprises me that the washer and dryer were damaged. My old automatic washing machine (finally retired it in 2006) sat outside ex-girlfriends flat for about 6 months back in the 80s- still got 20 years out of the thing (and it wasn't new- mother bought it in 1973)!

At the end of the day, insurers aren't charities, they didn't get rich replacing stuff just on the offchance that it might be damaged. Do ask for copies of the photos that allegedly show the electrician testing the cooker- could be a very amusing sideshow, how many hands did the bloke have? (2 for the meter probes and a 3rd for the selfie?). I don't think you'll get a new cooker out of it but you could have a lot of fun.
 
Finally had the cooker retested by a nominated company.

Suprise suprise it FAILED
 

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For what reason did it fail? Do you have a copy of the paperwork? Also it failing might/might not have anything to do with the leak.
 

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