Potterton Powermax HE - Remote Programmer (Nest)
- Thread starter Jamie McDonald
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When my mother was living alone I wanted to see all was OK, so put in broad band and cameras, and TRV wifi heads, this allowed me to monitor and adjust her heating from my house, they were not cheap, paid just under £80 for a pair, but they were easy to fit, and they worked well.
There are non wifi versions down to £10 each where you can set a program to change temperature through the day, and if you don't want to bend down to the valve, bluetooth starts at £15 each.
Nest works with Energenie so I fitted the MiHome Energenie first, and then took them with me to new home, where I also fitted Nest, but reason for fitting Nest was because only two wired entrance floor to granny flat where boiler is, and wanted to control DHW and CH with just two wires. Even without Nest the Energenie TRV heads worked very well controlling room temperature.
There are non wifi versions down to £10 each where you can set a program to change temperature through the day, and if you don't want to bend down to the valve, bluetooth starts at £15 each.
Nest works with Energenie so I fitted the MiHome Energenie first, and then took them with me to new home, where I also fitted Nest, but reason for fitting Nest was because only two wired entrance floor to granny flat where boiler is, and wanted to control DHW and CH with just two wires. Even without Nest the Energenie TRV heads worked very well controlling room temperature.
Just to confirm I can plug the USB cable that I would charge my phone with into the back of the nest to test it's working right? That usb cable is connected to the wall socket of a normal uk home....
I cant believe this bloody thing has cost me so much hassle. Surely there should of been some sort of safe mode for idiots like me to stop all the damage I have caused...
I cant believe this bloody thing has cost me so much hassle. Surely there should of been some sort of safe mode for idiots like me to stop all the damage I have caused...
Yes, plug it into a standard UK phone charger.
The safe mode for idiots, to prevent damage, is to call in a professional installer rather than pitching in trying to do something you don't understand. It's impossible to make something completely idiot-proof, because idiots are surprisingly ingenious in their attempts to make a total hash of things
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To be fair to Nest, they do a pretty good job of trying to stop exactly the scenario you’ve found yourself in, see attached - I know when I installed it, it’s the first thing I saw.
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Oh yea baby, over the moon 
There us a further issue. Got it all working then turned the dial in Drayton thermo controller thingy on the wall and it soarked and popped a fuse in the boiler again. Luckily it only popped 1 fuse and I had a spare so it's working again but I'm not turning the thermostat again.
There us a further issue. Got it all working then turned the dial in Drayton thermo controller thingy on the wall and it soarked and popped a fuse in the boiler again. Luckily it only popped 1 fuse and I had a spare so it's working again but I'm not turning the thermostat again.
Attachments
Some people have all the luck
hi Muggles, Im ready to try again with my Nest and the Powermax. Im confident with the Nest heat link box connections, but still a bit confused with the thermostat end. Based on the picture i put up thats connected to the Drayton thermostat on page 4, what out of the 4 cables (Yellow Earth, Blue, Brown and Brown sleeved) what 2 do i connect to the header?
Why did you not ask your electrician to fit it while that were sorting the rest of the wiring out? And what was the wiring fault that was causing fuses to blow?
Use the brown & black wires at the old thermostat location to connect your Nest, and connect the other end of those same wires to T1 & T2 in your Heat Link. Cut back the other two cores to ensure they can't accidentally make contact with anything you don't want them to.
Use the brown & black wires at the old thermostat location to connect your Nest, and connect the other end of those same wires to T1 & T2 in your Heat Link. Cut back the other two cores to ensure they can't accidentally make contact with anything you don't want them to.
I never got an electrician in. I have read the manual many times and looked at these pics here and have wired the heat sink up to the boiler. That worked. I then connected the thermostat to a USB charger and it all works.
All I have to do now is find the 2 brown/black wires at the boiler end and hard wire it to the wall where the old Drayton thermostat was.
All I have to do now is find the 2 brown/black wires at the boiler end and hard wire it to the wall where the old Drayton thermostat was.
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