Potterton Powermax HE - Remote Programmer (Nest)

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Ok thanks, I will look this evening after work. Fingers crossed
 
Aside from all of that. lets go back a bit. Initially you said:
For some reason there is no room thermostat anywhere in the house that will control the temp of the radiators!

but then you said:
Controlling the temp at the moment is a Drayton Combi-Stat.

So assuming that your Potterton HE boiler has built in 'time control' as below,

Timer.JPG

then in a nutshell you are installing a device to provide time and temperature control, which you already have.

OK you can access it remotely via your phone if you feel the need to change the temperature of your home whilst out shopping / down the pub / at work etc., but it won't change anything with regard to:
I will now be able to control the temp around the house with that instead of turning up/down each individual radiator.

If you are looking to have control of each radiator you should be fitting something that provides individual room temperature control. For example TRV's.

TRV.jpg
 
Ho Stem, yes I was a bit confused initially. I thought the drayton controller was just a device to turn house roads up and down but it's a little bit more than that. Anyway that's by the by. And I understand the individual rad control.

I have learnt a lot by how I have potentially broke things by jumping the gun and juggles pointing me in the right direction.

I also apologise for " hijacking" somebody's post but it is on the same description on how to wire the nest to this infernal boiler. Just gone off a bit with the errors. Once repaired it will get back on subject.
 
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No worries, hope you get your Nest / boiler sorted without too much expense.

Starting a new thread attracts more attention as it is flagged as such and is readily visible, so you stand a better chance of more readers and a quicker reply. It can be too much effort to scroll through pages of old messages to get to one hidden at the bottom. I put the note on your other thread to stop anyone wasting their time repeating there what has already been said here.

A room thermostat is simple. It is just a switch. It turns the heating on & off when the temperature at its location reaches the set value, so the room temperature is maintained at that level.

As @muggles is already working on this with you I'll leave you in his capables.
 
Hello guys,

I have just had the 2 fuses tested and 1 has blown and 1 hasn't. I have swapped the fuses over and still no power to the board other than the amber glow.

I am going to order some of amazon but I'm not 100% sure which ones to order. I'm searching for 3.15amp slow blow fuses. What I get is lots of glass versions and a few ceramic ones. Which ones shall I get? One of the ceramic ones says it's for a car stereo and the other one has (time delay) after its description. I dunno what that means.

The fuses that are in the pcb look exactly like the ceramic ones on amazon
 
Take one to an electrical merchants tomorrow, or a heating spares merchants. Either that or buy the ones I sent you a link to, which are definitely correct...
 
Oh yea I saw. Ok I ordered 4, bloody expensive but if it works then great. They will come tomorrow. I will keep you updated.
 
If they arrive tomorrow, having ordered at this time of night, I'll eat my hat. HSP close at 4 so they won't be dispatched until tomorrow morning. Expect them on Wednesday.
 
That's fine. Do you think this will sort the issue and I will have a boiler back. My thinking is that if no fuse had blown then power would of got to the pcb and destroyed it but because a fuse had blown then it would of protected it...right?
 
I wouldn't hold out much hope. You connected a device designed for 12v DC to a 230V AC supply, and if that's what caused the fuse to blow then the fault travelled through all the circuitry between the thermostat connection and the fuse. I think you'll have ended up joining Live and Neutral together, effectively, thereby sending voltage back down the Neutral wire. If it's just a fuse then you can congratulate yourself on having got away with it (although I suspect you'll still need to buy a new Nest).
 
Oh dont say that.

Well whilst I'm waiting with baited breath is there a way to test the nest without putting it on the circuit. Maybe put a USB cable into it to see if it accepts power?
 
Yes, you can connect it up to a USB power supply, see if it powers up.
 

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