Potterton Puma 100e -start of winter- HW fine CH not working

[ChrisR]

Drain boiler (again - you'll get good at that ) undo the 4 Allen screws (or 2) which hold the pump round part and pull it off. Don't damage the O ring.
You might find the plastic box on the pump drops to bits - new pump required.
There's a gap between the two discs of the rotating part (rotor) about 4mm. Make sure it's clear.

If you happen to have have a capacitance meter, measure the cap on the pump. You may find a date label on the cap too.

Power up the pump (could turn boiler gas off and turn boiler on) and see how easy it is to stop the pump with one finger. It should be quite difficult.
If it's easy, you need a new pump

Sorry if I was a little peremptory earlier!

 

[adj]

Hi Chris

Happy New Year.

Thanks for your help again. I am very grateful.

I'll try what you suggested tomorrow. I've got to go and visit the relatives in a few minutes. Anyway in case the pump fails I'd rather do it on a day when I can buy a replacement quick so I can have a shower.

Andy

 

[Agile]

The exposed plastic part which spins the water is the impeller.

The rotor is the moving part of the motor which you dont see because its hidden inside the body of the pump.

If the impeller is intact and turns with reasonable torque it sounds as if there is a blockage in the pipework or even the main HE.

Lets see what the impeller inspection shows.

Tony

PS After BG had changed a pump I once found that the central nut from the old pump had fallen into the pipe underneath. I found it easily enough but BG wanted to power flush it for £550.

 

[Alfredo]

I've just returned from a Puma 80e doing exactly the same as this. Pump running, fan running, DHW fine. Boiler will sometimes light for CH, but goes out v.quickly Flow doessn't get hot. I had not read this thread before so i can't add anything to it except its deffo a Puma thing!!

No, I didn't get to the bottom of it either, I was reluctant to dismantle too much as its Jan 1 and no spares, and at least they have HW. and I've just had another call out now in Skegness..25 miles away

I am interested to know if its the pump though. This one had a new PCB in 2005.

Alfredo

 

[adj]

Hi Alfredo

I changed my pump and my PCB. I had already changed the diverter.

Still no joy for me. I'm going to get a pro in or even change the boiler.

Andy

 

[ChrisR]

Well, IF the front end of the diverter is getting warm (should only take seconds to open to CH), AND the pump is creating a pressure, then there must be a blockage.
It has been known for the boiler isolating valves to look open when they aren't fully - check that.
Otherwise, there's summat in the system somewhere.
I had one with ptfe tape stretched across the end of the diverter valve where the arrow is

It could be that there's a blockage, in the pipes in the boiler or at the iso valves. You can trick it a bit: get the ch on and as hot as it gets. I'm assuming the boiler heat exchanger itself does get hot. Then very carefully open the filling loop and trace with your hands where the hot/cold water goes. If you shut one of the boiler iso valves you can force water round the other way (into the expansion vessel, assuming its pressure is correct). I've located a blockage doing that.

It's an odd one!

 

[baxpoti]

If you shut one of the boiler iso valves you can force water

Wouldn't do that, simply because when you open the iso valve it will leak
(they're rubbish)

 

[ChrisR]

'Course they leak, it's a Puma, that's how you know they got water in

They seem to stop leaking after a couple of days!

 

[senoj_nai]

I'd just like to express my thanks to all you people out there who are providing their expertise free of charge. I too suffer from owning a Puma 100e and this time it's also my CH that's now flowing.
Following the advice in this thread I tracked down my problem to be a dripping tap. I was surprised to see how little the tap had to drip to cool the wax capsule and close the CH diverter valve.
Just in case anyone is thinking of buying a 100e, don't. 3 diverter valves (as you cannot get the wax capsules on their own), 2 wax stats from the DHW, 5 electronics boards and one pump. It's 11 years old and I think I'll buy a Vaillant 831 next.