Potterton Suprima 80 Airlock

[Marty1966]

Its connected to the return pipe at the base of the coil. I'll change that out for a proper bleed valve, still getting my head the plumbing in this place...
Yes, Ive hit the 'boost' button for hot water, it fires up then goes back to standby mode after a minute or two leaving the Boost light illuminated

 

[Marty1966]

Its connected to the return pipe at the base of the coil. I'll change that out for a proper bleed valve, still getting my head the plumbing in this place...
Yes, Ive hit the 'boost' button for hot water, it fires up then goes back to standby mode after a minute or two leaving the Boost light illuminated

 

[terryplumb]

On the pipe marked flow ( on insulation) high up there appears to be a 15mm pipe branched from it ,where does it go, what's on the end of it ?

And do you have plenty of domestic hot water ?

 

[Marty1966]

Above that Flow marker is the valve from the F&E Tank into the system

 

[Marty1966]

Theres hot water but how much Im not sure - I'll find out in the morning I guess

 

[terryplumb]

So it could be all working ok now ,possibly . If steaming hot water is present coming thru the coils return ,that's a good sign !!

 

[Marty1966]

Kind of, when I call for HW theres still a lot of gurgling water around the boiler/pump pipework and then it returns to standby so wont stay on

 

[terryplumb]

It won't stay on if the cylinder water is hot and stat is satisfied.
See how it goes.

 

[Marty1966]

Thanks a million for your time and your thoughts, appreciate it. Ill keep an eye on it and see if it corrects itself fully by morning and I'll update you tomorrow.
Thanks again Terry

 

[terryplumb]

Ok ,fingers crossed !!!

 

[Marty1966]

Hi Terry, the gremlins persist. The HW call on the timer had and still has no response from the boiler, it sits in standby with the orange light illuminated.
The CH fired up off the timer and still works fine.
Leaving the PCB as the last option, could there be a problem with the zone valve motor that runs the HW circuit? Or is there some reset deeper within the boiler that could be triggered? Or from your experience can have you any other thoughts?
Many thanks

 

[terryplumb]

Do you have domestic hot water ??
1. What make are the two port valves ,and do they have a small lever low down on their end ?
2. What is the hot water cylinders thermostat set to ,and have you touched it at all ?
3 .what make and model programmer ?
4 ,when draining down ,did you do anything to the two port valves ?
5. Do you have an immersion heater in the cylinder and if so is it on?
It's a bit odd that IF ,you ONLY drained the system ,that some part of the control gear should malfunction ,but of course it could be just coincidence.
Basically , the programmer ,when DHW ( Domestic hot water) is selected ,energises the cylinder stat ,if that isn't satisfied ( water temp below it's setting) it energises the motor in the two port valve ,which opens and allows hot water to flow thru to the coil ,at the same time a micro switch in the valve is closed and energises the boiler ,which then fires up ,starts pump.
So there are quite a few things that have to be checked out.

 

[Marty1966]

Hi,
The only DHW is whats left from the last time the HW circuit was working - Sunday night.
The two port valves are HoneyWell pics attached and yes the one on the left feels like two settings on the lever and the on the right it feels like three options - cant see the tops...
Cylinder thermostat set to 55 degrees - Ive tried setting to max to see if it responds at the boiler but nothing
Programmer is a CentuarPlus C27 Pic attached
No when draining down I only turned the F&E Tank output valve to Off
There is an immersion heater but currently not connected

 

[Marty1966]

Bit of good news! I rocked the levers on both port valves rapidly and tapped both units several times and Hey Presto the green light comes on and she's fired up! Also no air lock is apparent seems to be running smoothly. Went to the cylinder and can hear the water boiling in the tank.

So one of the two port valves is a bit dodgy. Ill try to get a pic of the top of each one and confirm the position of the levers as I cant get in there to see. What are the setting options and what should each be set to - how do I identify which os for the HW and which is for the CH ?

 

[terryplumb]

Good. The valves lever should be in the auto position ,not manual. I assume the programmer is currently on for central heating ,if so, turn off the demand for central heating on the programmer ,whilst observing and listening at the motorised valves. You should be able to identify which one of the valves re acts as it closes. That's the one for central heating.