Priming on top of caulk/filler?

[Marcelli1525]

I'm redecorating my living room and have applied decorator's caulk to the joints between plaster and coving/architraves/skirtings, many of which had small cracks.

I have also filled a number of small dents/scrrw pops.

I will be painting the walls and ceiling with emulsion (and applying an eggshell finish to the woodwork).

Do I need to worry about the potential for crazing of the paint applied to the caulk? - is it necessary to prime these areas, and if so, with what? And should I spot-prime the areas where I have applied filler? I have some Zinsser BIN-Aqua on my shelf and also some Zinsser Peel Stop, and obviously it would be good to use products that I already have, but I'm not sure if these are suitable for this task, or if it's necessary to use anything at all.

 

[Wayners]

Depends on the caulk and type of paint going over.
I prefer not to use caulk unless I really have to and then only a small amount and leaving it a 48h to dry.
Try a bit and see what happens

 

[Leftum]

Depends on the caulk and type of paint going over.
I prefer not to use caulk unless I really have to and then only a small amount and leaving it a 48h to dry.
Try a bit and see what happens

I’ve stopped using it to. I use two pack filler wherever possible. It stops cracks in the future.

Caulk is good for sealing tape for a straight edge.

 

[opps]

I’ve stopped using it to. I use two pack filler wherever possible. It stops cracks in the future.

Caulk is good for sealing tape for a straight edge.

Like @Wayners I am a professional decorator.

I use about 10-15L of 2 pack per year (sometimes more, sometimes less).

It is pretty pants at accommodating movement, eg hairline cracks in between the underside of coving and the wall. It would also be a PITA to sand without damaging the underside of the coving. That said, yes, it can lock things in place, so, yeah, I will a give you a "win" on that.

A great product though when used appropriately.

 

[Wayners]

Underside of coving is a problem with cracks.
32mm drywall screw in a red Fischer plug (smooth and hard plastic) every 125mm Ish is best way to squeeze coving tight against wall. Screw will pull in plaster cove easy with a hand screwdriver.
Rake out crack a little but don't damage coving, gardz and fill.
Only way other than replacing coving making sure you seal wall and use a good adhesive.
I've tried everything. Drilling holes and injecting foam. Raking out. Nail gun. Grab mastic. Screws are the best way imo

 

[Leftum]

Like @Wayners I am a professional decorator.

I use about 10-15L of 2 pack per year (sometimes more, sometimes less).

It is pretty pants at accommodating movement, eg hairline cracks in between the underside of coving and the wall. It would also be a PITA to sand without damaging the underside of the coving. That said, yes, it can lock things in place, so, yeah, I will a give you a "win" on that.

A great product though when used appropriately.

I’m just a diyer. I’ve used the filler for our Victorian house- skirts don’t fit the wall when replaced so I’ve filled them. Hopefully it won’t crack.

I also like drywall finishing filler for walls and little dents in plaster.

I wasn’t telling anyone how it’s done.

How would you fill a gap between a skirt and the wall please ?

 

[opps]

I’m just a diyer. I’ve used the filler for our Victorian house- skirts don’t fit the wall when replaced so I’ve filled them. Hopefully it won’t crack.

I also like drywall finishing filler for walls and little dents in plaster.

I wasn’t telling anyone how it’s done.

How would you fill a gap between a skirt and the wall please ?

No offence taken.

With tall Victorian skirtings, I often use two pack filler where the thin edge of the skirting meets the plaster if it has been mullered over the 100+ years.

If I can see any evidence of bounce, I will apply more fixings, or squirt in expanding foam to lock the skirting in place.

Often, the top lip is too rough to use caulk or a ms polymer.