problems with eurolocks

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Have you got a plastic or aluminium door, or a wooden one?
 
funnily enough, we have had our pvc front door for 15 years. The Eurolock broke yesterday. The key cannot be removed from either side unless the door is locked. My sister did it, trying to force her key in when mine was in the other side. Anyhow, we are getting a new door, this one is practically falling off its hinges.

Wonder if this will get deleted, since i wandered slightly off topic . . .:cool:
 
crafty1289 said:
funnily enough, we have had our pvc front door for 15 years. The Eurolock broke yesterday. The key cannot be removed from either side unless the door is locked. My sister did it, trying to force her key in when mine was in the other side. Anyhow, we are getting a new door, this one is practically falling off its hinges.

Wonder if this will get deleted, since i wandered slightly off topic . . .:cool:

before you change the door, try to 'break in'
 
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Alas, no good ideas from me then. I'm a Chubb man meself.

But I will keep an eye on this, because a club I'm a member of of has aluminium-framed glass doors (like shop doors) with Eurolocks. I noticed the other day they project about 4mm beyond the door surface.
 
thanks for your help john it does seem a bad desighn where the weakest point has 40% metal removed for a screw :D ;)
 
andy said:
crafty1289 said:
funnily enough, we have had our pvc front door for 15 years. The Eurolock broke yesterday. The key cannot be removed from either side unless the door is locked. My sister did it, trying to force her key in when mine was in the other side. Anyhow, we are getting a new door, this one is practically falling off its hinges.

Wonder if this will get deleted, since i wandered slightly off topic . . .:cool:

before you change the door, try to 'break in'
I have always wanted to try it :LOL: When the door is locked, and i push it from the outside, the top of it seems to flex quite a lot, up to 3-5mm!
It only has about 4 locking points (sliders, like on a window) :confused:
I believe the standard nowadays is 5-7 points, and a latch that keeps the door SHUT when it is pushed to, instead of letting the door BOUNCE back, so you have to pull the handle up to close the door! :evil:
 
Aaaaar, Jim lad, in my day... hardwood doors.... mortice locks... bolts... none of this new-fangled PVC...
 
crafty1289 said:
funnily enough, we have had our pvc front door for 15 years. The Eurolock broke yesterday. The key cannot be removed from either side unless the door is locked. My sister did it, trying to force her key in when mine was in the other side. Anyhow, we are getting a new door, this one is practically falling off its hinges.

Wonder if this will get deleted, since i wandered slightly off topic . . .:cool:

Sounds like your cam on the cylinder has twisted. New cylinder or a repair to the existing will sort this out.

There's a lot of talk about this subject at the moment, and it's being blown-up out of all proportion. If the cylinders are correctly fitted, then it's not a problem - unless you get the determined attack. There are cylinders available that will defeat this attack, and you can purchase a device which fits behind the handle and attaches to the cylinder, again helping to defeat this attack.

Ask yourself a question - who's got the most to gain from promoting this? The thief who already knew about the attack method, or the company selling the cylinders/products to help defeat the attack ?.
 
thanks masona exelent that looks like a good solution
you can niether rotate or lever the whole lock
my pops is nearing free tv licence so a bit of extra security will give him piece of mind ;)
 

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