Programmer problem

Joined
5 Apr 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
947D5791-4FE7-4A48-84BD-C107009BFD9E.jpeg
I have a simple set up with a programmer opening a motorised valve/actuator to operate the central heating. Recently the heating stoped working. The valve still open scans closes correctly but I replaced the programmer - connections were the same as the old one (N L 3 4). I get the heating to operate using the switch on the left (in the picture) but not by using the programmer. I’ve checked the correct terminals are wired. Any other ideas what might be happening.
 
Sponsored Links
It looks like the programmer is set to 'off' for heating and hot water. You'll need to get the arrows pointing to 'on'. You'll also need to set the 'timed' or 'once' programmes set to whatever times you want them to come on/go off before you can use them. Look in the manual or leaflet that came with the programmer.

 
Last edited:
Yes exactly! And the heating is working. I can operate the heating using the single switch.
 
The switch to the left appears to be the switched fused connection unit that sends power to the programmer. So if you select heating via the programmer, what happens?
 
Sponsored Links
The switch to the left appears to be the switched fused connection unit that sends power to the programmer. So if you select heating via the programmer, what happens?
 
Nothing happens. If the fused switch is on the heating comes on even if the programmer is in the off position. Power also goes to the programmer.
 
Sounds like a wiring fault or motorised valve failure. Did the same happen before you changed the programmer? Can you post a photo of programmer wiring?
 
Last edited:
Yes. It happened with the old programmer. So I thought the programmer was faulty so put a new one in. But still the same issue.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    246.4 KB · Views: 54
In the main the switched fused connection unit (left switch) is the supply to whole system so always needs to be on.

The central heating works in the main by the programmer sending power to two thermostats one for domestic hot water (DHW) the other for central heating (CH) which in turn operate a motorised valve which has micro switches inside that in turn work the boiler.

There are variations which we call plans, so C, Y, W, S for example. The C Plan uses thermal syphon for DHW often no motorised valves, (although my house C Plan and two motorised valves) the C Plan has evolved and three common versions.

The Y and W plan use a three port valve, often used with oil, or gas boilers with not cool down sequence as the boiler can cool by heating DHW.

The S Plan normally has two or more two port valves, and follows the sequence I have described to start with.

The programmer often has both electrical dip switches and physical slides to set it for the different plans, it was normally considered as a 10 or 16 option programmer depending on settings, they counted off so a bit misleading with the count.

They have gone out of popularity as the programmable thermostats starts at around £35 and instead of turning heating off, it turns it down, so really cold night heating still switches on, and I have seen the old programmer kept for DHW but wiring changed so CH is no longer controlled by it.

With so many options a picture of the programmer alone does not really help, even the wiring does not help that much as plumbers it seems are colour blind and even seen green/yellow wires used for line, where really should be only used for earth. And it seems they don't carry brown or blue sleeving as often a blue wire used for line.

The one thing we can consider as having correct colours is the motorised valve, cable fitted by the manufacturer so in the main we work back from the wiring centre where the motorised valve is fitted.

So more of a description so we know what plan is being used, and picture of wiring centre wiring, and programmer wiring etc.
 
If I just use the fused switch the motorised valve opens and the system works.
 
Yes. It happened with the old programmer. So I thought the programmer was faulty so put a new one in. But still the same issue.
Sorry, just edited my original response. Could be motorised valve switch stuck in the closed position, so therefore keeping the heating on, or it could be the wiring from the spur wrong.
 
The valve only opens if I use the fused switch. It used to work fine with a programmer, stopped working, so I changed the motorised valve and timer but still no luck.
 
Sorry, just edited my original response. Could be motorised valve switch stuck in the closed position, so therefore keeping the heating on, or it could be the wiring from the spur wrong.

Turning the room stat up and then down should help confirm which it is.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top