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Pug 205 diesel filter primer pump leak

Discussion in 'Car Repairs / Maintenance' started by Deluks, 27 Sep 2018.

  1. Deluks

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    Bog standard 1987 diesel 205.

    The nutshell:
    I have the older style diesel filter and primer pump, it's a metal tube that sticks out of top of the fuel filter, with a plunger that you unscrew and pump like a mini bicycle pump.

    Does anyone know if these can be taken apart? I can separate the unit from the filter head, but need to access the internals to check the seals. An exploded diagram would be good!

    The long story:

    Had a fuel leak underneath, changed dripping rubber hose.

    After that it was a pig to prime/start, dismantled the fuel filter setup, reassembled, started and run fine.

    After a while, I noticed intermitted problems with acceleration, including a massive drop in power when on the motorway (yikes) despite flooring it I couldn't get above 50mph.
    Making me think fuel starvation/air getting into fuel lines.

    The power loss problem would be temporarily resolved by bleeding air from the filter, using the air bleed valve and 'top hat' primer pump.
    But after an hour of driving the power problem would return.
    I did notice that fuel was getting past the plunger and squirting out of the top of the filter housing, which can't be normal.
    The car starts on the first turn of the key, everytime. And I put a bottle of wynns injector cleaner in the tank and filled up.
     
  2. Burnerman

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    Scratching the brain cell again, but I think these either had the Bosch aluminium canister with the pump on top or the Lucas/CAV which had the 3 part filter.....both having a drain at the bottom and both located on the offside bulkhead?
    One of the pumps was retained with a circlip, one was peined over but I can't remember which. More importantly, I'd doubt very much if seals are available.
    I'd go to a long established motor factors to see if a replacement head is available - if not I think a Ford Fiesta one - with the 1.8 diesel - could be grafted on.
    John :)
    Just remembered - Ford.....its the bloomin' awful 1.6 or 1.8 Endura engine. Horrible old clunker with two timing belts :(
    J.
     
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  3. Deluks

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    Found a picture of the rare beast! (Link below)

    It's a 3 part sandwich.
    Bottom half features in/out coolant pipes for pre-heating the fuel. A water-in-fuel sensor, and water drain plug.

    Top half has the fuel in/out pipes, air bleed screw, and centre bolt that holds it all together.

    The ''black hat" primer at the very top, leaks fuel out when pumping. Making me think that a seal has gone in the plunger, ultimately over time, causing air to get into the fuel filter, which is affecting fuel pressure and causing starvation.

    Does this sound feasible? I've no idea about this stuff I'm just winging it!

    Thanks, keep those brain cells well oiled!



    http://s19.photobucket.com/user/erroneous_/media/2011-08-13192128.jpg.html
     

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  4. Burnerman

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    Thanks for the photo - its the CAV type with a water pre-heater and an electrical connection to sense water in the filter bowl, as you say. Some 205's had the pre heater on the back of the block, offside but I guess yours is the later version which also served the turbo model.
    Anyway, your diagnosis is absolutely correct, air is entering the fuel system and causing the problems you describe. When you press the plunger, there should be no leaks, and fuel/air is bled off at the nipple on the injection pump.
    Hopefully there will be a replacement somewhere - new, old stock perhaps.....but the Ford replacement would do but you would lose the pre heat and water sensing facility I guess. The engine would cope perfectly well anyway without these.
    The XUD7 engine was a brilliant design, long lasting and responded to a turbocharger very well....years ahead of its time.
    John :)
     
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  5. Deluks

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  6. Deluks

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    Other wacky ideas include:

    Replacing the primer head with some sort of bolt/nipple arrangement and fitting a bit of tubing and a big syringe.

    Removing and blanking off the primer, and fitting one of the inline ''blood pressure monitor" type rubber bulbs.
    Do these go before or after the filter?

    For now so shall cut the finger off a marigold and stick it over the primer to prevent air ingress.

    Hopefully it will enable me to get from one end of the M4 to the other this weekend!
     
  7. Nige F

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    Get a packet of 3 from boots and put all 3 on :sneaky: Seriously 2 or 3 marigold fingers and then a wrap of self amalgamating ( rubber tape) round the base so that a jubilee clip holds it all but doesn't cut into the rubber :idea: Advice from the King of motor bodges here. I think my best one was fibreglassing the rusted wing of an 1100 morris - on the outside of the wing.;)
     
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  8. Burnerman

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    The C25 filter would do very well, and elements wouldn't be an issue.....depending if the banjo threads were the same of course (and they should be).
    The rubber bellows type (before the filter) work well too but sometimes they leak, sometimes the one way valve doesn't!
    If you can't use the preheater, just join the pipes with a length of copper tube and jubilee clips and ignore the electrical water sensor connection.
    John :)
     
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  9. Deluks

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    Popped an O-ring over the shaft of the primer, which is clamped down between top hat and the metal tube. Then put a rubber glove over the lot, and that's worked for now! Still ****ing out fuel when priming, but got me through a 500 mile round trip over the weekend without any further intervention.

    At least I've myself bought some time while I hunt down a reasonable replacement.

    Thanks to all.
     
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  10. Burnerman

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    Good luck with it - a great little car! Unfortunately I've never owned one but have repaired quite a few.
    Timing belts are easy and essential, single thickness disc at the front just silly......I nearly fell out of love with one when I had to pop a new axle in - didn't enjoy that!
    John :)
     
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