Pulling fuses to stop theft.
- Thread starter Bod ...
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Just fit a secret 'kill switch' for the same effect.
A clever ruse I heard of, was to put a concealed switch in the starter motor circuit, and a fuse in the main supply to all the other circuits. That way your alarm, clock, radio etc will work, and you can carry on driving the car, but when you turn it off and lock it, it cannot be restarted.
The person doing this had an older soft-top, which can't be made thief-proof.
The person doing this had an older soft-top, which can't be made thief-proof.
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Good to see your still about.Not on GD.
Yes, just a switch to the fuel pump or similar.
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Do you keep tools and equipment on the van?
Is it theft whilst out working or overnight, that is the worry?
Tools and equipment are harder and more time consuming to replace than a van.
Protection needs to be relevant to what you need to protect most. If they can't steal the van they might still steal the tools.
Is it theft whilst out working or overnight, that is the worry?
Tools and equipment are harder and more time consuming to replace than a van.
Protection needs to be relevant to what you need to protect most. If they can't steal the van they might still steal the tools.
Are you suggesting that if they can steal the van they will leave the tools behind?
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No
Im suggesting being very careful about adding or altering wiring on a canbus van. And protecting it accordingly.
Is it the thefft of the van overnight, or theft of van and/or tools during a working day that is the concern. 2 very different scenarios.
Surely the immobiliser will do a better job than add on stuff?
I don’t interfere with CanBus!
Perhaps a high current off/on switch (that you find on competition vehicles ) in the starter feed lead could be considered so long as it doesn’t interfere with other equipment.
John
I don’t interfere with CanBus!
Perhaps a high current off/on switch (that you find on competition vehicles ) in the starter feed lead could be considered so long as it doesn’t interfere with other equipment.
John
Fitted a kill switch to my brother's Sierra years ago. Used one of the switch blanks on dashboard next to heated rear window switch. Got a standard switch from Ford, so it blended in with the other switches. One evening some scuzzers tried to nick it, but couldn't understand why it turned over but wouldn't start. Saved the car and only cost few quid for the switch. Unfortunately, fixing the wrecked ignition lock and door (b'stards bent the top outwards!) cost a bit, but at least we still had the car.
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I used to do the same, in the Ford Twoc era......a switch in the coil feed or to be really sophisticated a two pole switch that cut out the fuel pump feed as well (XR3i).
Didn’t stop the toe rags from trying to nick mine from the school car park though - tried to get in through the sun roof the last time.
That car was a total liability, 6 months with me before being sold on.
John
Didn’t stop the toe rags from trying to nick mine from the school car park though - tried to get in through the sun roof the last time.
That car was a total liability, 6 months with me before being sold on.
John
When we owned Minis as a family (old Minis) a simple switch fitted inside the little plastic ashtray in the top of the dash cut the supply to the coil, very effective and simple, in my last Mini I also had a battery isolator switch, that car was going nowhere.
I just sometimes remove the - terminal.
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