Pyronix euro mini

Was your system originally setup by a company ?
If so they would have put their engineers code into the system. I would doubt they will release the code. Only option if this is the case would be to default the panel.
 
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Just series it with the TR from other bell. Job done

ok I could do that but just to confirm my current wiring. I have installed a 2.2k resister at the new bell location and put this wire into Z6 (white) then I have the second tamper wire coming from the new bell location into the Z5 common and then have wired the new bell up to the 0v and 12v next to the Z6 Input. I presume you are saying that I just need to move the white wire located in Z6 with the 2.2k resister inline to the tamper of the original bell on the co trip panel. Can all other wires stay in place. Thanks in advance.
 
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Was your system originally setup by a company ?
If so they would have put their engineers code into the system. I would doubt they will release the code. Only option if this is the case would be to default the panel.
That’s a bit naughty, how would another company ever enter the engineers menu if they changed the code. Just a way of always being tied to them. Genius.
 
That’s a bit naughty, how would another company ever enter the engineers menu if they changed the code. Just a way of always being tied to them. Genius.
Doesnt take long for someone woth the knowledge to access the system
 
ok I could do that but just to confirm my current wiring. I have installed a 2.2k resister at the new bell location and put this wire into Z6 (white) then I have the second tamper wire coming from the new bell location into the Z5 common and then have wired the new bell up to the 0v and 12v next to the Z6 Input. I presume you are saying that I just need to move the white wire located in Z6 with the 2.2k resister inline to the tamper of the original bell on the co trip panel. Can all other wires stay in place. Thanks in advance.
Take the wire that is currently in the TR terminal out and twist is together with the white, then the wire u have in z6 common will move to TR. U may have to take the resistor out
 
Take the wire that is currently in the TR terminal out and twist is together with the white, then the wire u have in z6 common will move to TR. U may have to take the resistor out
Ok so basically take out the white wire in Z6 and put that in the Tr original and just to clarify also the yellow wire currently in common on Z5 and also add that to the Tr so in total three wires in the original TR. You mentioned I may have to remove the resister. What would be the reason for that and how will I know if I do need to remove the resistor. Sorry for all the questions I just want to get this spot on.
 
No only 1 wire will go into TR, twist the wire that is currently in tr together with the white and put in terminal block, then yellow into TR
 
So essentialy it is 1 big loop from 0v through both bell tampers and back to the tamper return
 
If it works with the resistor then leave it in. I have never tried it with 1 to be fair.
 
Ok so the yellow wire that is currently in the common of Z5 will now go into TR and the white and the original TR are not put together in a connector block. I think I have it. I presume to test if it works with the resister I will need to take the new bell box cover off to see if the tamper works.
 
That’s a bit naughty, how would another company ever enter the engineers menu if they changed the code. Just a way of always being tied to them. Genius.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/pyronix-euro-mini.581832/page-3#ixzz7DaeUMnMd

This is to prevent the end user from changing the system setup which could affect the end users insurance requirements. You are not beholden to that company many professional installer have ways and means of resetting this if the panel has not been locked.
Locking of engineer codes is naughty and the end user should be informed in the handover document that it is locked.
 
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