Quick check on cable size

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Running in a T&E cable for an oven only (no hob)
This is rated as 5.9KW ..... so therefore 26A

Quick look up for a clipped direct (method C) cable on a 3m run shows that 4mm2 is more than beefy enough at 37A

That all correct ?
 
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Might have to re-think this a bit.
There is a radial cct out to an MK Grid switch which is rated at 20A, this is in 4mm2 running from a 20A breaker. form the switch 4mm2 cable to a wiring connection point.
Previous oven was always hapy on the 20A breaker.

As Max capacity of this is 26A .... I need to find a solution for this Grid switch.
 
there is a youtube video on this coming soon!

Fitting a contactor near the consumer unit to switch the oven (or hob) on and off. Clunk!

Personally I consider it a crazy situation, just so a grid switch can be used!
 
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I can't find a Grid switch higher than 20A ..... I know I could increase breaker to 32A ... but would then need higher capacity grid switch
Anybody any suggestions ?

So far only thought is I would need to put a link in bypassing the GRID switch (and fit a blanking plate) and put a DP cooker switch instead of MK5045 connection point.
Unless anyone else has a better idea.


If my idea is the option what in neatest way to 'bridge' the 4mm t&e ... use WAGO connectors ...
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412C.html They are good for 32A
or WAGO push connectors rated at 40A
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA173.html


Anybody experience of using these ? which is easiest to use ... or is there a better way

Connection will be within confines of the 'back box' so all still protected.
 
Last edited:
OK .. thanks, always thought DP local switch was requirement ... maybe as you see so many cooker switch boxes.
 
What else does the grid switch serve?

Are you not running a new separate supply for the oven then?
 
Hmm. Quite a few cables zig zagging in that stud wall. May be >50mm deep though, but doesn’t look kosher to moi.
 
Hmm. Quite a few cables zig zagging in that stud wall. May be >50mm deep though, but doesn’t look kosher to moi.
That was exactly my thought. I'm not convinced they are deep enough, and they certainly aren't in safe zones.
 
My issue with using a contactor with a remote switch without also using a standard DP isolator is what happens if the contactor gets jammed on. Note that you would not use a domestic DP switch for safe isolation either as you can not lock them off normally.
 

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