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Rayburn CH install Help please

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by browuk, 25 Jul 2012.

  1. browuk

    browuk

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    Hi all,

    I need help with installing a solid fuel rayburn. 16,000 BTU back boiler.

    I am fitting it to a house in France, Hot water is already supplied via a mains pressured sealed hot water tank which i am happy with and would like to keep that.
    My question is, how is it possible for me to install the rayburn without DHW and just run CH Radiators?

    I understand that it is an uncontrollable heat source and thus needs to be able expel excess heat so can I install as follows.

    Rayburn fitted on ground floor with 22 or 28mm flow and return to the 2nd or 3rd floor? going to the F & E tank (stainless steel) t off from these to a large radiator on the 2nd floor to dump heat ( gravity? )

    (must the F&E tank be higher than any radiator?)

    also tee from the flow and return going into a pump which would then go off to an additional 3/4 radiators atleast 1 of which being on the same floor as the rayburn.

    If anyone could shed any light on my plan it will be very much appreciated, also if someone would take the time to post up a possible diagram layout of the install in which I am proposing please.

    New to this but not so much to plumbing, have installed solid fuel appliance before but never with a back boiler.

    Many thanks for any help.
     
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  3. Agile

    Agile

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    Even with 28 mm you are unlikely to get much gravity flow unless you are very careful with the design.

    It would be more normal to use 32 mm if you wanted gravity heat output.

    Tony


     
  4. mysteryman

    mysteryman

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    This may well work on a gravity one-pipe layout, especially as it is a 3 storey house. It is quite a small heat output. The F & E tank needs to be at the highest point. Go up from the Rayburn in 28mm, connect the 22mm vent from the highest point on the circuit; run under the first rad with tees off for each end of the rad. The flow into the rad should be at the top. Go on to the next rad, dropping down to lower floors as you go. Be very careful not to create unvented high points, except the rads. You can run the pipe under a rad on the lowest floor, teeing into it as before, and then back to the Rayburn. This can work without a pump if you do it correctly. Whatever you do with a pump, there must be a gravity load available at all times, in case of a power cut or pump breakdown.
     
  5. oilhead

    oilhead

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    By the time you've put 28mm up three floors, there isn't going to be much of your 16,000 Bthu's left.
     
  6. browuk

    browuk

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    The house isn't actaully that high, its an old 1700's property ground floor ceiling is 8' next floor is only 6.5' it is directly above this i plan to install the f & e tank no rads on 3rd floor just 3 rads on 2nd and 1 rad on ground (1st floor) same as rayburn.

    so it is ok to not install a tank for DHW?

    can I tee of 28mm with 15mm for rads or must it be 22mm?
     
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  8. dcawkwell

    dcawkwell

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    Waste of time.
    I had a rayburn sent it to scrap best thing I did and got myself a nice
    modern range cooker. The output for radiators is so little it isn't worth it.
    Get yourself a nice combi and lpg tanks.
     
  9. Boilerman2

    Boilerman2

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    The OP's Rayburn is not a Cooker Boiler it is a Back Boiler which is a completley diffrent animal!! ;)
     
  10. dcawkwell

    dcawkwell

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    Right only half as useful then. Definitely for the skip.
     
  11. Nige F

    Nige F

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    The rads must have 3/4 inch tappings and pipes :idea: - it won`t work properly with 1/2 inch - and particularly bad are the modern " back tapped" ones . Get a couple of old cast iron ones in ;)
     
  12. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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