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re-wiring a shower

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19 Feb 2007
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Sheffield
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my shower stopped working the other day so i took it off and checked the wires at the back. the wire was bare and had melted some of the sheathing :shock: my idea is to cut the wires just at the back of the shower and extend them about a foot with new wire just wondered what would be the best thing to connect them together with are 30amp terminal blocks ok (the shower is on a ring with a 32amp fuse breaker) or do i need something else to connect them :?:
 
Are you sure your shower is connected to a ring (sockets) circuit?

Does it not have its own fuse/mcb?

What is the rating of your shower?
 
And also, whatever those answers, should you just reconnect without finding out why things melted in the first place?

Insulation is not supposed to melt - if it does then something is wrong.
 
yeah its on its own curcuit with a 32 amp breaker and its a rated at 8.5k
any idea on why the insulatin had melted could it be an ark or wires touching?
 
As BAS says, you can't just replace a cable and leave any fault in situ. It's a false (and dangerous) economy.
What size is the cable?
 
Strong chance that the shower cable may be too small and/or loose connection.

Eitherway, it is inadvisable to re-terminate and re-connect the shower without getting to the bottom of it.
 
the cable is twin and earth thats just over 1.5 cm thick
we do keep getting very low presure on the water which in turn stops the water flow to the shower but keeps the power on to it would this have anything to do with it?
 
is it still ok to connect the wires to new ones making sure that there is no way the wires can touch using insolation tape? if it is ill check it every couple of week to make sure the same thing isnt happning again
 
no its 1.5cm any theorys on why it could have happened?
If the cable across its wide dimension is just over 1.5mm as you said, then it's probably 10mm² and OK for the shower. Is the earth core solid or stranded?

If you weren't right with that measurement then it might be 6mm², which could be borderline or even insufficient for the shower. But even so it's unlikely to have got so hot as to melt the insulation.

Which leaves a loose connection as the most likely cause. Have a look at the isolation switch - see if there are any signs of overheating there.

Also if the thermal cutout isn't working, i.e. the shower carries on heating when the water flow drops then you've got another problem to fix. Can't see how that would melt the supply cable, but it's unsafe.

How old is the shower?


is it still ok to connect the wires to new ones making sure that there is no way the wires can touch using insolation tape? if it is ill check it every couple of week to make sure the same thing isnt happning again
1) Insulation tape is no good as insulation - as long as the cables are properly prepared, and have no bare lengths exposed, then it doesn't matter if they touch - that's what their own insulation is for.

2) It would be much better to replace the cable that runs from the switch to the shower than join bits on.

3) The most prudent course of action would be to get an electrician to check the circuit over - make sure it's all OK, make sure there are no hidden faults on the cable etc and repair it. That will probably cost less than replacing the shower if it gets damaged, and certainly less than anything more serious happening....
 
i have tiled over the wire run and i dont think that i can get to replace the full cable length from switch to shower thats why i was only going to replace a small part of the wire!! the thermal cut off does work just either get bloody cold water or no water!!
the wires in the switch did feel a bit loose (its the first place i checked) could it have been that?
 
In response to the first question regarding 30 amp blocks the shower is 8.5kw:

The voltage at you house is 230/240v which would give a current of between 36.9565 and 35.4166 for the shower to work correctly.

What do you think the maximum current 30amp blocks can/should take?

Do you think the 32 amp fuse is being overloaded or not?

The cable sounds like it MIGHT be larger but you haven't actually stated the cross sectional area of the conductors and the method the cable has been run not to mention it's length for any volt drop.

Incidently does the circuit have any RCD protection

Answer these questions and i will help you more.
 
chivers i will get back to you on all question this afternoon dinner break in 2 mins wil be back at 1:15 if that is ok
 

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