Regs for height of sockets

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All,

Hopefully a quick question for you guys in the know.....

Is there a regulation that states the height of sockets in a kitchen, and also light switch heights.

Reason I ask I am going to do the prep work ie. wall chasing out and just want to double check.

Cheers all

Nick
 
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there is part M of the building regs to do with disabled accessibility, i can't remember the exact figures off the top of my head

but provided you aren't doing new build or a gut to external walls only refurb then you only have to leave things in a no worse state regarding disabled accessibility than they were when you started.

having said that speak to your sparky and (if they will be involved with the job at all) your building inspector first if you don't wan't a fight on your hands.
 
Look at the building regs (IEE green book, if you have it) and there are also recommendations for accessory positions in kitchen outside Part M.

Like, don't put sockets within 300mm of hob or sink, etc....
 
securespark said:
Look at the building regs (IEE green book, if you have it) and there are also recommendations for accessory positions in kitchen outside Part M.

Like, don't put sockets within 300mm of hob or sink, etc....

Unfortunately, I don't have access to these documents. Can anyone please advise what the minimum height from the floor, sockets can be located and the maximum height from the floor, light switches can be located.

I assume that it is acceptable to locate a cooker connection unit which has a single plug-in socket for the cooker ignitor either directly at the side of the cooker or preferably at the back of where the cooker will be positioned?

Any advice is much appreciated
 
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Mr M said:
I assume that it is acceptable to locate a cooker connection unit which has a single plug-in socket for the cooker ignitor either directly at the side of the cooker or preferably at the back of where the cooker will be positioned?

No, not on the wall at the back of the cooker. Worst case, imagine a chip pan fire splashing burning oil over the cooker that's running down the front including the control knobs. Or somethings caught fire in the oven and smoke or flames are pouring up from the oven door over the knobs.

In neither case should you have to lean over the cooker to turn off the power.

Beside the cooker, and with a gap of a foot or so. Also, if you insist on having a CCU with a socket on it :evil: be aware that people will take every opportunity to plug a kettle in and drape the flex over the hob where it can be burned.



Preferred height for sockets and light switches is between 450mm and 1200mm from finished floor level (ref. 553.01.06 but this may be out of date). Then you can probably operate them even if you've got a bad back, a wooden leg, one arm and are in a wheelchair.

In a kitchen, there is a lot to be said for running the sockets, FCUs and appliance switches in a row just above worktop height. This is very convenient in use, and installation is economical in time and materials.
 
good point, I suppose this is to stop people sloshing them when washing the worktop?
 
Mr M said:
Unfortunately, I don't have access to these documents.


Any advice is much appreciated


Find them at a Library, or if you are considering more than one or two jobs, buy a copy. They're £20 or less.
 
In all cases the building regs now quote a height for switches and sockets as being between 450 and 1200 from finished floor level.
The height above worktops in a kitchen is not set - a figure of 150 mm is mentioned as this is the size of a 6 inch tile and it means you don't have to cut the tile around the socket - 150mm is only a recommendation not a requirement.
Make sure that any switches or sockets are a minimum of 300mm from any. (metal sinks don't have to be cross bonded)

sparkman:cool:
 
In all cases the building regs now quote a height for switches and sockets as being between 450 and 1200 from finished floor level.
The height above worktops in a kitchen is not set - a figure of 150 mm is mentioned as this is the size of a 6 inch tile and it means you don't have to cut the tile around the socket - 150mm is only a recommendation not a requirement.
Make sure that any switches or sockets are a minimum of 300mm from any sink. (metal sinks don't have to be cross bonded)

sparkman:cool:
 
sparkman said:
In all cases the building regs now quote a height for switches and sockets as being between 450 and 1200 from finished floor level.

AFAIK, they don't, they require provision to be made for disabled persons, and approved document M recommends between 450mm and 1200mm for all sockets and switches as a way of meeting this
 
Adam_151 said:
sparkman said:
In all cases the building regs now quote a height for switches and sockets as being between 450 and 1200 from finished floor level.

AFAIK, they don't, they require provision to be made for disabled persons, and approved document M recommends between 450mm and 1200mm for all sockets and switches as a way of meeting this

Ok apollogies but that's basically what I said
 
sparkman said:
In all cases the building regs now quote a height for switches and sockets as being between 450 and 1200 from finished floor level.
The height above worktops in a kitchen is not set - a figure of 150 mm is mentioned as this is the size of a 6 inch tile and it means you don't have to cut the tile around the socket - 150mm is only a recommendation not a requirement.
Make sure that any switches or sockets are a minimum of 300mm from any sink. (metal sinks don't have to be cross bonded)

sparkman:cool:

As I said 150 is a recommended height, not because of tile height but not to cause strain on appliance leads being to close to worktop surfaces.
 

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