hi i have a problem with my boiler[as above] its just 2 years old but i havent had it serviced so i thought i would ask if anyone has any idea why the boiler keeps flashing e5 and does so till i empty the condensate siphon which is like a large version of an air lock from a demi john, it fills up so quick but there is no obstruction in the drain outlet it just fills up to the top, and then flashes e 5 ? ... there is no obstruction in the condensate siphon either
remeha avanta plus 28c
- Thread starter pgm948
- Start date
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It does really sound as if there is some problem with the condensate trap draining.
How quickly does it fill up?
Does water actually run into the condensate drain?
Does it also fill up when the boiler is not firing ???
Tony
How quickly does it fill up?
Does water actually run into the condensate drain?
Does it also fill up when the boiler is not firing ???
Tony
hi tony thanks for replying it can fill up within an hour and the only way to get it to run again is to empty the siphon, its seems as though it fills the trap right up and rather than the the water going over the last bend it must cause it to cut out and flash e5
To quote the Remeha manual- "E5" =
No Flame signal after 5 attempts to fire up in a single heat demand
Causes = incorrect Air/Gas ratio
Blockage in flue or air supply (including heat exch)
Ignition/Ionisation electrode fault
Gas flow at full load
recirculation of POC's
This is clearly a job for a RGI not for DIY
The Condensate drain if blocked could cause this fault code
No Flame signal after 5 attempts to fire up in a single heat demand
Causes = incorrect Air/Gas ratio
Blockage in flue or air supply (including heat exch)
Ignition/Ionisation electrode fault
Gas flow at full load
recirculation of POC's
This is clearly a job for a RGI not for DIY
The Condensate drain if blocked could cause this fault code
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The ignition / ionisation probe has sagged
They bend away from the burner so that signal is lost on low flame.
Blow torch until red hot and bend it back - need a gas engineer to do it, as 26/9 gas safety checks are required after.
HTH
They bend away from the burner so that signal is lost on low flame.
Blow torch until red hot and bend it back - need a gas engineer to do it, as 26/9 gas safety checks are required after.
HTH
thanks i am going to get a gas engineer to have a look and i will let you know what happens ..... thanks phil
Hello there !
I had also a lot of trouble with the Remeha Avanta Plus 28c, and tried a lot until i finally could find the solution. In my case, the error code E4 was showing the most, code E5 not so often, and E6 was very rare.
It was hell, ongoing for 1.5 years now, and i felt that i should share the information for other users plagued by this monster.
To make it short > let your plumber do a full service ! Aside from the "normal" things you can check (clogged siphon, turning the plug in the outlet), he should take care of the following things :
1.) Especially the cleaning of the heatings inner parts is very important. Make sure he orders a full service kit with all seals necessary. Our set had 3 seals : 1 big red "rubber" sealing, 1 smaller red rubber sealing, and 1 small graphite sealing for the burner/torch. Then a new ignition plug, a new temperature sensor (additional, no old sensor was replaced), a sort of "heat insulation" for the combustion chamber, and some replacement screws. Also you should get some very fine sandpaper.
2.) The small cover of the burner (with the Remeha logo), where the middle sized red sealing is fitted, has three "noses" on the inner side, which keep the burner in its place. These noses were dirty, and we cleaned them with fine sand paper. Obviously the electricity has to "flow" partially over these noses, and the dirtier they are, the less electricity can flow. Resulting in wrong values, the main board seems to check many of them.
3.) The burner itself has a sealing on the bottom, which was initially made out of some mesh/web-like material. Meanwhile Remeha uses graphite sealings on this spot, not mesh anymore. Replace it accordingly.
4.) In our case, the ignition transformer was also defective. We replaced it with a new one. I would suggest to replace it only if the problems remain.
5.) Afterwards, let your plumber check and adjust the emissions/exhaust values at "full load" and at "partial load" - there are specific modes you have to start to get them running. Check the manual for more information about this. In our case they were slightly out of the allowed range.
That was "all" i had to do to get the monster back at work. I think the most important was replacing the seals, replacing the transformer, and adjusting the exhaust values. ABout the costs : I am not sure how expensive the parts are in the UK, but here in Germany i found the transformer for ~50€ on Ebay, and the service kit with the seals etc. came for 85 € from the plumber.
Although this thread is older already, i am sure somebody out there will be happy to find a (possible) solution for this nerve-stretching issue.
I had also a lot of trouble with the Remeha Avanta Plus 28c, and tried a lot until i finally could find the solution. In my case, the error code E4 was showing the most, code E5 not so often, and E6 was very rare.
It was hell, ongoing for 1.5 years now, and i felt that i should share the information for other users plagued by this monster.
To make it short > let your plumber do a full service ! Aside from the "normal" things you can check (clogged siphon, turning the plug in the outlet), he should take care of the following things :
1.) Especially the cleaning of the heatings inner parts is very important. Make sure he orders a full service kit with all seals necessary. Our set had 3 seals : 1 big red "rubber" sealing, 1 smaller red rubber sealing, and 1 small graphite sealing for the burner/torch. Then a new ignition plug, a new temperature sensor (additional, no old sensor was replaced), a sort of "heat insulation" for the combustion chamber, and some replacement screws. Also you should get some very fine sandpaper.
2.) The small cover of the burner (with the Remeha logo), where the middle sized red sealing is fitted, has three "noses" on the inner side, which keep the burner in its place. These noses were dirty, and we cleaned them with fine sand paper. Obviously the electricity has to "flow" partially over these noses, and the dirtier they are, the less electricity can flow. Resulting in wrong values, the main board seems to check many of them.
3.) The burner itself has a sealing on the bottom, which was initially made out of some mesh/web-like material. Meanwhile Remeha uses graphite sealings on this spot, not mesh anymore. Replace it accordingly.
4.) In our case, the ignition transformer was also defective. We replaced it with a new one. I would suggest to replace it only if the problems remain.
5.) Afterwards, let your plumber check and adjust the emissions/exhaust values at "full load" and at "partial load" - there are specific modes you have to start to get them running. Check the manual for more information about this. In our case they were slightly out of the allowed range.
That was "all" i had to do to get the monster back at work. I think the most important was replacing the seals, replacing the transformer, and adjusting the exhaust values. ABout the costs : I am not sure how expensive the parts are in the UK, but here in Germany i found the transformer for ~50€ on Ebay, and the service kit with the seals etc. came for 85 € from the plumber.
Although this thread is older already, i am sure somebody out there will be happy to find a (possible) solution for this nerve-stretching issue.
Well your missing other important checks regarding E4&E5 and you were lucky to solve your problem with the only things you done
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