Removal Of 60's Radiator Fittings

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by novaf4, 1 Oct 2019.

  1. novaf4

    novaf4

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    Hello!

    I have two steel radiators from the 60's. They have recently been flushed out and powdercoated. On each radiator I will be replacing the standard TRV with a nice antique brass TRV and replacing the lockshield valve with a nice antique brass version. To fit these new parts I need to remove some parts and would like some advice on this please.

    It's worth mentioning that I do not have much plumbing experience but I have done a bit.

    The TRV's were fitted about 12 years ago. The large white painted fittings have not been removed for at least 20 years, possibly up to 60 years.

    I've removed the old TRV's and the lockshield valves but more fittings remain that need to come off.

    Also both radiators are not fitted to the wall. They are loose and can be carried anywhere or laid flat on the floor. I have to be careful not the damage the paint!

    1.
    TRV FITTING
    Below is a photo of the valve that carries the TRV.

    I need to remove the entire chrome fitting. Can this be done by using a spanner on the chrome nut shaped object that is immediately to the left of what looks like a brass thread? I'm hoping that the brass threaded thing is part of the chrome fitting and by turning the chrome nut the whole thing including the brass thread will undo from the large white painted fitting with the flats on it. Or would it be better/easier if I try to undo the large white painted fitting from the radiator body, using a spanner, and replace that with a new one? To be honest I'd rather not have to touch this white painted fitting as a. it's required and b. it's been painted and c. it's fitted and doesn't leak! Ultimately my new antique brass TRV valve has a fitting the same size as the brass coloured threaded item so it needs to go in place of that - into the white painted fitting.

    Any tips on what to use and how to remove? Extra leaverage? Whack a spanner/adjustable with a mallet? (I've done this in the past with success.) Which direction?

    PHOTO:

    [​IMG]


    2.
    LOCKSHIELD VALVE
    Below are two photos showing where the lockshield valve goes. End view and side view.

    I need to be able to remove all the brass objects so that my antique brass valve can be screwed into the large white painted fitting with the flats on it. I believe the brass objects can be removed by inserting some kind of allen key / hex socket thing inside the fitting and turning probably anti-clockwise(?). If I'm right I do not have an allen key or socket thing that large. are these easily available in plumbing / tool shops? What are they known as? Do you agree this is the way to go to get it off? I would rather not have to remove the large white painted fitting for reasons explained in my first point, but this is always an option I suppose if the brass thing won't come off. Again, any tips on how to get it off would be appreciated including which direction? What would be useful to know is the normal technique and the last ditch resort technique! (I may well need it)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Many thanks.
     
    Last edited: 1 Oct 2019
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  3. CBW

    CBW

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  4. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Pic 1 uses an adjustable spanner on the flats of the chrome tail, it will loosen anticlockwise, wiggle back and forward to loosen the lock on the threads.

    Pic 2 you'll need a radiator tail key, yes like a large allan key, it fits inside the tail and it will loosen anticlockwise too, again wiggle in and out to loosen the threads.

    They will be tight so take it easy so you don't strip the tappings

    Fitting the new tails will need PTFE tape/thread when fitting to provide the water seal.

    Don't touch the white original, now white, tapping adapters as they may shear.
     
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  5. novaf4

    novaf4

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    Thanks guys - awesome super fast reponse! Can you suggest a way of extending the leaverage for both the adjustable spanner and radiator key if necessary? I have a feeling I'll need to, especially for the rad key as they don't look very long at all. Maybe I'll find a long thin metal tube - it's how crack free the classic car's wheel hub nuts which are torqued up to something ridiculous like 265lbs.
     
  6. CBW

    CBW

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    They should both be fine. The rad tail key is short, but should do the job. Failing that, use longer end of it and use and adjustable on the short end.
     
  7. dilalio

    dilalio

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    I'd use my rachet rad key :)
    On pic 2, you'll need to hold the large white painted nut with some adjustables to stop that unwinding out of the rad when you try and remove the union tail with the rad key... A bit of card under the jaws will prevent damage to the paint.
     
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  8. novaf4

    novaf4

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    I've managed to get the fittings out in pic 1. Picking up the rad key in a bit so will try the brass fittings later on. Meanwhile, what's the best way to protect my antique brass fittings when doing up so I don't damage them? Here's my new kit...

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Terrywookfit

    Terrywookfit

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    Allen key to fit hexagon in tail.
     
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  11. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Thickish cloth in the adjustable spanner jaws, for the nuts on the valve ends.
     
  12. novaf4

    novaf4

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    I thought there may have been a secret other method that I wouldn't think of but OK thick cloth on the nuts it is.
     
  13. novaf4

    novaf4

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    Last edited: 2 Oct 2019
  14. dilalio

    dilalio

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    Before you do that, check inside the valve tail and make sure that it is an actual hex inside... The old valves usually have 2 nibs and for that you'll need a slotted key/wrench such as the Rothenburger radiator wrench or maybe one of these...

    https://monumenthandtools.co.uk/mon...ep-16mm-22mm-hex-radiator-valve-tool-mon4516y
     
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  15. Nige F

    Nige F

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    I have to say I had doubts about bothering to powder coat 60's rads - but it looks really good - lifted from normal gloss by a mile (y).
     
  16. novaf4

    novaf4

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    Thanks a lot for this. I think you're right. I should have taken this photo when I asked the question...

    [​IMG]


    If you are correct about the tool I need, will the Monument Grip Slotted 2 Step tool fit onto my own rachet handle or would I need to purchase a special handle for it? Only it's much cheaper than the other suggestion and I have a selection of rachet tools for working on the car. Cheers.
     
  17. dilalio

    dilalio

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    I don't know about the monument as I have the rothy... That's why I said "maybe".

    You "could" just get the rothy and return it if it's "not the right tool" :whistle:
     
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