rendering on parapet walls, but no flash cover?

A straight line with the cover flashing 25mm into the wall, then a bellcast bead over the lip of the cover flashing and 2 coats of render to finish.
 
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A straight line with the cover flashing 25mm into the wall, then a bellcast bead over the lip of the cover flashing and 2 coats of render to finish.

Thanks for the reply. I’ll do it that way. One more question. What size lead ... 150mm or would smaller do?

The main roof is 35deg and that small section about 3m wide is 18 deg. When I researched low pitch slate roofs I was expecting to use special membrane, hooks not nails etc but the roofer just did it the normal way. It’s seen some pretty bad weather but will see I suppose!
 
At the bottom of the flashing where the slates and soaker overhang the gutter you need a Kickout - the Kickout (aka a Divertor Piece) will do just that: divert overshooting water away from the masonry into the gutter.
You can buy them in or make them yourself.

At the far end of the fascia you can just see the last bit of the valley going past and discharging onto a lead soaker piece - that discharge will have to be watched.

Work off a roof ladder, & tie-in any access ladder.
 
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At the bottom of the flashing where the slates and soaker overhang the gutter you need a Kickout - the Kickout (aka a Divertor Piece) will do just that: divert overshooting water away from the masonry into the gutter.
You can buy them in or make them yourself.
.

Ah! You’ve spotted another thing that was bugging me! To make one, do I just get a strip of lead and fold/bend it over? Trying to buy anything at the moment is a bit of a challenge!
 
Not lead, lead will just about work but a harder sheet metal is best - surely there's instructions for making these simple devices somewhere on the internet and how to fix them to any kind of abutment?
I can make them to suit off the cuff but I'm not too sure about describing and sketching what i do.
 
Hi,
Yes, found several eg:

Just wondered what best practice was in the UK.
 
Yes, i just googled "kickout flashing" and got 3 hits including how to make one.
Best practice is to make it custom made for your needs to your design - just so long as it works.
 
150mm code4 flashing , straight cut into the brick. The section against the wall is sheltered as can be seen looking at the slates.
I would tweak the lead flashing at the bottom of the valley to send water further away from the abutment. Easy cheap tweak.
A piece of lead can be simply slipped behind the bottom soaker into the gutter with the inner edge turned up. rendered over but not fully covered.
Regarding roof pitch. The roofer has clearly shut the gauge down giving extra head lap .It is a short rafter length so i would expect it to be fine
 
Problem with using lead for a permanent KickOut is that it doesn't work - I've noticed this where lead was used: over a short time it can sag or even fall out, and worst of all it sometimes diverts the water in exactly the wrong direction. Occasionally debris slides down and dislodges the lead. Not a good idea.
Best to do it properly & then its only done once & your not climbing a ladder every winter. based on experience, I've always found its best to do things based on experience.
 
Great info everyone thanks!

Another question though. Should the lead go like A or B in the picture below:

13E4AF6B-7E36-47FE-8E90-87AFED8609D3.jpeg
 
"Lead is absolutely fine" - except when its not.

Just saying but what I've noticed is most people are capable of doing this kind of work wrong but experience is needed to do it right.

OP,
either will work but B is the usual method over slate.
Well done with the section view sketches - clear and simple.
 
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