Rendering quote

[PikeyDIY]

Can I just quickly check a quote we have had for the rendering of our new build, it looks like the right kind of stuff to me - but I admit I dont really know what I'm talking about

Quote for proposed work in Cheltenham:

- Supply & fit all new stainless steel angle & bellcast beads.
- Apply scratch coat of render to whole of property
- Apply top coat of render containing waterproofing agent, trowel & float smooth

- All sand/cement materials, cement mixer and zip-up tower to be supplied by myself.

It works out at a little under £30 per sqm.

Does that sound about right?

Many thanks

 

[NickB_99]

- Apply scratch coat of render to whole of property
- Apply top coat of render containing waterproofing agent, trowel & float smooth

I thought the waterproofer went into the scratch coat underneath?

I'm sure a pro will be along soon to confirm one way or the other....

 

[roughcaster]

I use waterproofer for render,,, scratch coat and top coat,,
I use waterproofer in both coats when roughcasting,,
but,,,, "only use waterproofer in the scratch coat", when rendering for a tyrolean finish.

Roughcaster.

 

[stevethespreader]

how many m2 is there to be rendered?

 

[roy c]

How come he hasn't got a mixer? I wouldn't expect a customer to supply a mixer!!!

 

[PikeyDIY]

'myself' is what the chap giving us the quote wrote - as in he will supply mixer etc

It's about 100 sq m.

 

[Nige F]

Aint you got a mixer you can sell `im . boy Yew want one - I`ll deliver it once I`ve repainted `er.

 

[PikeyDIY]

Just had a call from the guy who gave us the quote, he started the job today (I am at work).

He says the house will need 'double meshing' as a single layer wont hold the render (?) and also he will need to do 3 coats instead of 2

Would that make sense? I've never heard of that before personally

 

[Micilin]

Just had a call from the guy who gave us the quote, he started the job today (I am at work).

He says the house will need 'double meshing' as a single layer wont hold the render (?) and also he will need to do 3 coats instead of 2

Would that make sense? I've never heard of that before personally

I don't know what "double meshing " is needed - can you get more specifics.

The only reason (that I can think of now) to give it an extra coat on new build is bad blockwork, or if you are trying to build out to some kind of
feature and keep a margin to a set size.


Is there a cost implication? The original £30 per m2 was not bad (sight unseen)

 

[PikeyDIY]

As in, attach another layer of mesh over the whole house. And then he's going to charge us another £1000 to do a third (base) coat. All seems very disappointing to me

It's mesh on timber battens and counterbattens on a timber framed house. Here's a photo (I hope) so you can see what I mean:

Untitled

• PikeyDIY
• 17 May 2010
• 1

 

[Micilin]

But why the second layer of mesh all of a sudden?

Most importantly, what has changed between first quote and now??


Now if this was me rendering, I would put a layer of polythene/builging paper or somehting behind the mesh , for the simple reason that it stops you pusihing loads through.

I suspect -and I may be unfair here- that he has tried rendering onone layer, can't, and thinks two layers will make it easier.

Edit- you need three coats on wire (eml etc) pr1ck, scratch, float.

If he did not know this has he done it before? The wire needs to be lapped, I would also tied joints as well as using fixings

Anyone else.

 

[Micilin]

Someone else look at the photo - is the mesh fixed to any pattern ? There seems to be no system to it, and it does not look lapped.

Is it Stainless Steel? Fixings seem to be sparse.

I can't for the life of me see why you need to double up the mesh.

With the caveat that I'm only going on the pic and the post, and don't want to be dramatic - I'm worried for ***** here. Rendering a house is not like skimming a kitchen ceiling. You can't patch it, or rub it down, and in a timber framed it is more a part of the structure (the mesh can rust, the fixings must be right, there is a hell of a weight on there, it must be weather proof) not just a finish.

To under price by a grand, have to suddenly mention an extra layer of mesh and then mention that three coats are needed instead of two ?

***** - have you seen his work, and talked to other clients.

 

[PikeyDIY]

I'll take more (better) photos tonight of what he's managed to do, and the construction thus far.

I have not seen examples of his work, he was recommended to us by one of my girlfriend's friends. He did say he's not rendered on this type of construction before, at which point alarm bells started sounding

We did have a few spare sheets of mesh, one of which he tacked up and tried again with much better results, although to me it still looked like he was being too hard with pushing the stuff through the mesh. But it was certainly working satisfactorily with a double layer.

I'm going to break out what he did tonight, as he filled the cavity behind the mesh (25mm battens and 25mm counterbattens supposed to be a 50mm cavity - all filled up with render!!), and have a go myself.

Mesh is galvanised, we fixed that ourselves. Vertical battens are at ~300mm centres, staples at 5" - 6" centres, overlapped by 2"+ on the lengths and maybe a bit less than 2" on the widths. We found it quite cumbersome but there certainly is a pattern to it

 

[Micilin]

I'll take more (better) photos tonight of what he's managed to do, and the construction thus far.

I have not seen examples of his work, he was recommended to us by one of my girlfriend's friends. He did say he's not rendered on this type of construction before, at which point alarm bells started sounding

We did have a few spare sheets of mesh, one of which he tacked up and tried again with much better results, although to me it still looked like he was being too hard with pushing the stuff through the mesh. But it was certainly working satisfactorily with a double layer.

I'm going to break out what he did tonight, as he filled the cavity behind the mesh (25mm battens and 25mm counterbattens supposed to be a 50mm cavity - all filled up with render!!), and have a go myself.

Mesh is galvanised, we fixed that ourselves. Vertical battens are at ~300mm centres, staples at 5" - 6" centres, overlapped by 2"+ on the lengths and maybe a bit less than 2" on the widths. We found it quite cumbersome but there certainly is a pattern to it

Hard to tell from the photo, it looks to have gaps that are probably the 'nap' of the mesh looking darker. It should be lapped 100mm on every edge at least, or you risk cracking. You are aware that galvanised mesh will eventually rust outside, and that spec's usually advise against mixing galvanised and staineless materials? Also be sure that your staples are going to hold the weight and not move over time with the expansion/contraction of the render. I'd prefer s/s screws and s/s mesh.

You should have something behind the mesh to stop the render all going through and leaving a solid lump in the bottom couple of foot of your cavity. If you are used to rendering mesh, you can do without this, but again , that is the differerence between someone who knows what they are doing and someone having a go.

I'm all for having a go.

But some one to want you to put an extra layer of unnecessary mesh and charge an extra k because he hasn't a clue about this application ?

Why should you be paying for him to have a go ? You have to live there, maintain it and maybe sell it.

Might sound harsh , but time to get someone in who knows what he's doing - there may be other things being done wrong that you have not seen , as you are not aware of it, and this guy will not know either.

 

[roy c]

I have doubled up on mesh when rendering on stud work (ie. dormer windows) but I tacked building paper on to the stud work with clouts( then over-lapped the mesh about six inches) on top of the paper that way the mortar doesn't fill the cavity between studs. If stainless mesh is used it is very expensive!!!!!