Repairing Wood Veneer

[AliG]

I want to repair some veneer that has lifted or come off on some wooden chairs.
In the past I've tried to stick it down with Evostick woodworking glue which I've successfully used for other tasks. In this case it's not working.
I'm wondering if another glue would be better for example Gorilla glue.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Many thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Avoid Gorilla (PU) glue - it will foam up and wreck the item.

Normally I'd expect contact adhesive to work, but contact adhesive (in fact any woodworking adhesive) does require clean surfaces, which suggests to me that you haven't thoroughly cleaned off the old adhesive(s). To clean solvent-based contact adhesive normally requires a solvent such as xylene - you can buy a suitable product in small red cans branded Evo-Stik solvent.

Rather than contact adhesive I'd have considered a product sych as Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, but this requires clamps and cauls or a vacuum bag to use it (because the surfaces to be glued need to be be put under pressure for 12 to 24 hours), so you may be better off just cleaning off the old adhesive, letting any solvent evaporate off overnight and trying contact adhesive again. I assume you know to coat both surfaces with glue leave 20 or so minutes until the surfaces are dry, then press the two pieces together - a wallpapering seam roller can be used to help get a better joint

 

[AliG]

Avoid Gorilla (PU) glue - it will foam up and wreck the item.

Normally I'd expect contact adhesive to work, but contact adhesive (in fact any woodworking adhesive) does require clean surfaces, which suggests to me that you haven't thoroughly cleaned off the old adhesive(s). To clean solvent-based contact adhesive normally requires a solvent such as xylene - you can buy a suitable product in small red cans branded Evo-Stik solvent.

Rather than contact adhesive I'd have considered a product sych as Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, but this requires clamps and cauls or a vacuum bag to use it (because the surfaces to be glued need to be be put under pressure for 12 to 24 hours), so you may be better off just cleaning off the old adhesive, letting any solvent evaporate off overnight and trying contact adhesive again. I assume you know to coat both surfaces with glue leave 20 or so minutes until the surfaces are dry, then press the two pieces together - a wallpapering seam roller can be used to help get a better joint

Thank you for your advice. I'm attaching some photos of the repairs I'm asking about. Initially I didn't do as you suggest and didn't remove the old glue so I'll do that this next time.
By contact glue do you mean original Evo stick, red can, or the wood Evo stick I used before? I was thinking of buying some small clamps. As you can see they would need to be small as it's the edge. Many thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

By contact glue do you mean original Evo stick, red can, or the wood Evo stick I used before?

Evo Stik wood glue, the white stuff in green or blue polythene bottles is actually a PVA glue, not a contact adhesive. Whilst it can be used for veneering, it often isn't ideal for small scale repairs because it requires clamps and cauls and takes 24 hours to fully set.

Evo Stik contact adhesive is better for small repairs, but a spray contact adhesive, such as EverBuild Stick2 is going to be a lot easier to apply and use successfully on small scale veneer repairs

 

[AliG]

Thank you. I'll look for that one. I was concerned about the glue leaking onto the good surface as it would be difficult to touch in any damage, due to the colour on the wood.