Replace PRV...

[neds]

Looks like I got a leaky PRV, but not entirely 100% sure on how to tackle it. Got the the valve, its for a Halstead Ace High combi.

The boiler loses pretty much all pressure after a couple of hours anyway so could I get away with not draining the whole boiler?

Cheers

 

[Clive100]

No, get a RGI to change the prv.

 

[neds]

Errr its not touching the gas side at all mate, an RGI wont be required for this work.

I've got the basic idea but just wanted some quick advice.

Cheers

 

[nickso]

dont bother changing the brass bit, just change the plastic bit. use the prv to drain down.

 

[neds]

I suppose I could use the old PRV to drain now since its not going to be used again good idea!

 

[Clive100]

Unfortunately, that's only renewing half of the contaminated valve seat/seal assembly - a quick fix that may not work. The term work in the meaning of the act includes all gas and non-gas components in repairing a gas appliance.

 

[ambi]

neds,
take no notice mate, you`ll find there are a lot of many good people who will give you the benefit of their experience. And some who just like preaching
regards

 

[seco services]

neds,
take no notice mate, you`ll find there are a lot of many good people who will give you the benefit of their experience. And some who just like preaching
regards

 

[ambi]

 

[neds]

Cheers lads, this is why these forums are great there are not many preachers out there and I'm fully aware of what I can and cannot touch.

So basically it requires draining the system and just replacing the PRV, any particular sealant to use on the replacement PRV?

 

[Gasguru]

I suggest you replace the complete PRV.....unless you are familiar with the valve construction and removal technique it is very easy to to screw up the pressure calibration since the factory adjustment is not threadlocked.

You do not need to drain the system....do not touch the boiler isolating valves...they often leak.

Close the boiler auto air vent and bleed all radiators of air, drop the pressure via the existing PRV. Whilst you have the old valve fully open check the expansion vessel pressure...set to 0.8 bar....see FAQs. Replace the valve...the water will stop flowing. You could use a little sealant on the valve olive connection. Open up aav and re-fill...checking the aav doesn't leak.

 

[Clive100]

Did'nt mean to preach but it's customer operating controls only for the general public otherwise it's RGI and/or qualified experienced electricians for secondary controls, paid or unpaid. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Changing a prv is apparently simple till the boiler flow/return isolations start leaking and continue to do so long after the new prv is replaced - back to square one for the inexperienced /unqualified. Neds mate do yourself a favour and spend some cash on an RGI - stay legal.

 

[seco services]

he is staying legal his not touching the gas. so if he gets a leak he's still not broke any laws only yours.

 

[spacethegas]

just to play devils advocate.

the prv is a boiler safety device. not involving the gas train, flue etc.but a safety device none the less.

i've seen prvs plugged off & gunked up with silicone to stop them leaking (i realise no one is advocating this).

if the ev was to loose its charge or its supply tube became blocked. the boiler still has the potential to blow off the wall.

if the hse were to investigate such an occurrence im sure they would advocate that all such work should be carried out by qualified person.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

has anyone mentioned checking the expansion vessel pressure? (probably the underlying fault)