I have just replaced a BGMVSP-23 actuator with a Drayton MA1 following advise on this forum. I wired up the new unit exactly the same and all appeared well. However when the system comes on now, the 'A' switches straight to CH even if I have the CH off on control panel! The only way I can get hot water is to take off the'A' and turn ther valve by hand. This suggests to me a faulty actuator, but I am a novice and would appreciate advise from anyone in the know.
Replaced Actuator not working properly
- Thread starter dmilbank
- Start date
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It suggests that you have mixed up the wiring,are you sure it is driving fully to CH?
with the heating and hotwater turned off at the programmer ,does the valve motor to mid position?
if so you have probably mixed up white and grey
Matt
with the heating and hotwater turned off at the programmer ,does the valve motor to mid position?
if so you have probably mixed up white and grey
Matt
How a mid-position valve works has fault finding instructions.
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Very interesting but a bit too technical for me!
I do not have much electrical knowledge and failed to understand the checking procedures from this article.
I have checked wiring and it is identical to the way previous unit was wired.
CH is switched on regardless of whether controller is set on water or Heating. Is there a simple way to check. My gut feeling is the Actuator is faulty.
I do not have much electrical knowledge and failed to understand the checking procedures from this article.
I have checked wiring and it is identical to the way previous unit was wired.
CH is switched on regardless of whether controller is set on water or Heating. Is there a simple way to check. My gut feeling is the Actuator is faulty.
Not very common for a new actuator to be faulty out of the box.
You need to get a multimeter and check voltages.
You need to get a multimeter and check voltages.
Sorry about that, let's try another way.
1. Turn the power off to the system (Setting CH and HW to OFF at the programmer is NOT sufficient).
2. This resets the motorized valve; manual lever should be at left end of slot.
3. Remove the actuator. (Don't disconnect the wiring)
4. Move the lever to the right end of the slot and push the lever in.
5. Replace actuator and pull the lever out.
6. Check that the lever returns to the left end of the slot and there is resistance when you move it to the right end.
7. Turn CH and HW stats to minimum.
8. Turn power ON.
9. Turn HW ON at the programmer and Turn HW stat to Max.
10. Boiler should light and only the pipe from valve to cylinder get hot.
11. Turn CH ON at programmer and CH stat to Max
12. Boiler should run and valve move to mid-position (the lever will be loose in its slot); both pipes from valve should get hot.
13. Turn HW OFF at programmer (do not touch HW stat)
14. Boiler should run and pipe from valve to CH should stay hot; pipe to cylinder should cool down.
15. Turn HW ON and Turn HW stat to Min
16. Boiler should run and pipe from valve to CH should stay hot; pipe to cylinder should cool down.
Let us know what you find.
Good Morning D_ Hailsham
I have followed your instuctions through to point 10 & the boiler is not responding.
If this suggests a wiring problem, I was very careful to copy from previous actuator wire up, trusting it would be the same.
If it helps, I have done a diagram of the wiring as follows
I appreciate your help so far,
Regards David
I have followed your instuctions through to point 10 & the boiler is not responding.
If this suggests a wiring problem, I was very careful to copy from previous actuator wire up, trusting it would be the same.
If it helps, I have done a diagram of the wiring as follows
I appreciate your help so far,
Regards David
Which do you mean by point 10?
Do you mean that the boiler responds prior to point 10, but not at point 10?
Your diagram show only one wire connected to the valve grey; I would expect to see two. Where does the one (cream?) wire go to?
Going through your list of instructions, your 10th. point is ' Boiler should light......' Boiler does nothing prior to this because power is off before your point 8, 'Turn the power on' & point 9 Turn HW on at the programmer'.
I can't tell where the cream/white wire goes to. The only double connection is the red & orange to the system, connected to the 'A' by orange.
I can't tell where the cream/white wire goes to. The only double connection is the red & orange to the system, connected to the 'A' by orange.
Thanks; I wasn't sure if you had counted those in italics. I have numbered each step to prevent confusion.
When HW is called by itself the valve is not doing anything. The boiler is lit by the HW thermostat.
Repeat step 1
Disconnect the valve Orange wire
Repeat step 7
Repeat step 8
Repeat step 9
Check Boiler lights
If it does, the HW stat is OK
Then there is a wiring error somewhere.
Repeated steps with orange wire disconected, boiler lights fine, water heating up. Does this tell us anything else than HW stat is ok?
Where do I go from here? If there is a wiring error, is there a way I can check it with just a neon tester?
Where do I go from here? If there is a wiring error, is there a way I can check it with just a neon tester?
That's a step in the right direction!
Leave the Orange valve wire disconnected and do steps 7 to 12. If step 12 is OK, it means the white wire is connected properly.
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