Replacing a run of fencing

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I'm about to replace a run of fencing as most of the post are at a 45deg angle!

I will be using 6'x6' panels between 3"x3" posts. Makes it easier as the old holes are already there. Seems like they were just rammed in the ground as there is no evidence of concrete or spikes!

I will be cementing them in but just wondered on the depth. I've read that with a 1.8m fence panel you need a 2.4m post sunk 600mm in the ground. That leave 1.8m above ground so leaves no room for a gap at the bottom or a space at the top for a post cap.

I'm guessing I can make it 550mm in the ground to give me a bit of a gap as I don't really want the expense of getting 2.7m posts.

Any advice on this?

Many Thanks

Mike
 
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IMHO 600mm is a pretty over-the-top depth for a 3" post and the difference between 550 and 600mm isn't worth thinking about anyway. 450mm is plenty whether its concrete or spikes as long as the ground is good. By the way it isn't a great idea to put the new posts where the old ones were because you will have softened the ground quite a lot. If it was me I'd try to start with a half panel and get new ground for the posts.
 
we always aim for 1/3 of the fence height under the ground for fence posts. May sound ott but fences take a high wind loading and they will survive wind damage a lot better than a post put in a more shallow hole.

The difference between a 2.40 and a 2.70m post is pence, but you can go slightly less if needs be
 
Panels aren't usually as good as arris rail and board fences, but at least they are cheaper, quicker and easier to replace. Pick up some treated batten when you buy them, as they invariably need reinforcing. Also consider using the u shaped fence clips to hold them in place, as nailing through the side of the fence will weaken the frame. Use 3 either side.

Also, consider 4" posts, they will last a few years more than 3".

You talk about the expense of 2700 posts, I'd consider shopping around. Don't get all this from the big DIY sheds.
 
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Panels aren't usually as good as arris rail and board fences, but at least they are cheaper, quicker and easier to replace.

but you will replace them a lot more often than closebaord fences
 
Also, consider 4" posts, they will last a few years more than 3".

Use 4" (100mm) posts, they last considerably longer than 3" posts. I agree with Thermo on this rule of thumb for a post is that 1/3 of the length of the post should be buried.

Also agree about close boarded fences. However, if possible I still reckon hedges are better, these avoid the downblast you get from fences, which can cause plants near the fence to be damaged.
 
Also, consider 4" posts, they will last a few years more than 3".

And concrete posts will last a lot longer.

Once you have dug out a few rotten or broken wooden posts, you may start to prefer concrete ones. If you like, you can paint them with dark brown masonry paint to make them blend in with the fence.
 
yuk!

and you can paint your patio with red brick paint and the walls with green paint too!
 
I see no red or green paint

POL_0108.jpg
 
Also, consider 4" posts, they will last a few years more than 3".

And concrete posts will last a lot longer.

Once you have dug out a few rotten or broken wooden posts, you may start to prefer concrete ones. If you like, you can paint them with dark brown masonry paint to make them blend in with the fence.

Concrete posts can crack and spall, and you get lumps breaking off around the rebar, and it all falls down and looks shyte, and the police come round and give you a good kicking, and then neighbours start to laugh and point at you, then you have to start wearing fake beards down the pub so as to avoid the constant stream of abuse from the locals, with their timber fences and mains gas putting you to shame!

Ever tried digging out a concrete post? ;)
 
Ever tried digging out a concrete post? ;)

No, I've never needed to. But i have needed to take out a number of wooden ones, obviously.

My old mum had three concrete spurs taken out not long ago as they were leaning over. They had been installed over 50 years ago.
 
there are no timber posts that will out-live or out-perform a concrete post of similar size.

a slotted post with a gravel board is both practical and strong.

we fill the post hole with concrete right up to the underside of the gravel board, this way the g.b. will always stay level.

we also dig the gravel board in a little as it adds to the stability of the fence.

panels can be changed (usually the weaker wayney type) a number of times if needs be, with the posts and g.b.'s remaining intact. this usually isn't necessary when using well maintained, close boarded panels.

timber posts look better and thats about it.
 
they will down on the coast. Ive seen oak ones far outlive concrete ones that are spalling and falling apart
 

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