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replacing Fascias and soffits - some advice

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I'm about to embark on the replacement of the fascias and soffits on the back of mine and our elderly neighbours semi detached houses (if the scaffolder turns up lol).

I've done a lot of research but want to clarify a few things before i get going on it - i'd like it to be done properly this time!

To give some background - the house is a 1968 brick house with concrete interlocking tiles, cold roof. about 20 years ago, the neighbour arranged for the old wooden fascias and soffits to be replaced with UPVC fascia and hollow soffits. these are pretty horrednously done; they've only used 10mm fascia capping but still removed all the old wood underneath; and nailed with a single nail per rafter - the fascia has twisted outwards at the bottom in a number of places, which in turn has made the gutters rise and fall a lot and causing blockages. it appears they tried to hide this by adding what looks like several tubes of silicone between the fascia and the hollow soffit sections - which just appear to rest loosely on the leg of the fascia, and have added a few screws every couple of metres into the wall fixed original batten. things came to a head earlier this year in the wind and rain, when a crash was heard and the soffits had come loose and were flapping in the wind - they are currently held in place by a strateigically place wrap of fishing line which is tensioned up to the rafters in the attic!

I am replacing with 18mm square leg fascia board, and 300mm hollow soffit. I have got some J-trim, with the intention of securing this to the wall fixed batten and secureing the soffit into that and screwing to the rafters or hangers from them. I originally planned to install the hollow soffit parallel to the fascias/walls, but am now veering towards how it's currently done - in perpendicular lengths slotted together; i guess this may add some more strength as well as adding the option to add further fixing screws along the 12m run. I have also purchased Manthorpe 3-in-1 10mm fascia board vents/felt tray/bird guards to fix to the top of the fascia board as currently the only ventilation in there appears to be the poorly fitted soffits flapping around!

My uncertainty comes with how best to secure the fascia boards and soffits to the existing rafters. from sticking a camera into the soffits, it's looks like the rafters are cut relatively small at the end (tbc when i pull the facia off!) - they have only used a single nail in the current stuff; and it looks like there isn't enough space to add a further fixing - also as i'm adding fascia mounting top vents, i need to drop the fascia board a little further than currently, so will likely need some additional mounting for the soffit. i'm also hoping that additional hangers will ensure an easier ride evening out the fascia board fixings.

From all the info online I've seen, there appears to be different methods of doing this - swish and a few roofing stores guides indicate using offcuts of fascia board screwed to the rafters to even out the ends and provide soffit support - they appear to nail directly into the UPVC hangers to secure the fascia, and screw/nail the soffits into it underneath. other guides say never to do this because it's not structural and will never hold fascia boards (but ok to soffits). in these cases they indicate either using treated timber flat planks secured to rafters, or batten lengths to form a secure fixing for the back only. My initial plan was to use the existing fascia im removing as the hangers - but now i know it's only 10mm board, i don't thing it would be strong enough - and frankly 18mm fascia board of large sizes it apallingly expensive nowadays - current fascia is 150mm, so with upstand and a 300mm soffit width, i'd probably need a 5m run of 300mm board to cut up! However UPVC = no rotting and would probably be easier to use as hangers. what is the correct/preferred way to handling this?

the second question I have is about the need for "Sprockets/Fillet/Kicker Plates" on top of the rafters to level up to the fascia board. i've watched endless guide on installing this stuff and some show rafters with fillets on top, others don't - but only 2 or 3 actually say you need to add them. in one article, it mentioned having to install them under felt support trays to stop them sagging and allowing water in - although all the 16-18mm fascia board i've seen, the specs say it doesn't need fillets and can support the weight of tiles on it's own. if they are needed, i guess that then brings me back to the first point - i guess fascia board would be easier to install and provide some extra support instead of a wooden fillet.

Finally - i've done this before - but last time was replacing wooden fascias around a flat roof garage; this is the first time doing an apex roof. Any advice, tips etc would really be appreciated!
 
Anyone offer any advice? If using 18mm Fascia board will do the job, then i'll go and buy a run...gotta start it in the morning ;)
 
Anyone offer any advice? If using 18mm Fascia board will do the job, then i'll go and buy a run...gotta start it in the morning ;)
Once you remove the old fascia boards and soffit, you can fix any old cradling you like to the rafter ends. We like to trap the (9mm plywood backer) soffit down onto the brickwork using short blocks of timber fixed into the rafter ends....







 
Ive just capped my house and learnt there is no real art to this if retrofitting!

As long as you've secured it you'll be fine. You can buy variant sizes of polypins let alone worrying it'll fall off you try getting one out of wood when it's bent knocking it in and you need it out to replace it.
 
Thanks for all the replies and advice - much appreciated!

After being let down by the previous Scaffolder, I finally got some installed last night and had a first look at the job today - it's pretty bad....

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it seems the last company to do it decided to patch the rotted felt end by fitting a short run ON TOP of the felt instead of under, helping to cause more damage on the way. the cause of the warped guttering/fascia is as i thought - the capping board has twisted under the weight of the concrete tiles and twisted out - not helped by the fact the rafter ends are about 50mm and most of the nails they put in are not even in the rafters but over the top!

I'm fitting manthorpe 3 in 1 vents/bird block/felt support trays all along, so i know i need to drop the fascia height by 20mm to accomodate it, but i noticed about half a dozen of the last row of tiles had nails in them, i was wondering if i would be better fitting an extra batten right behind the new fascia board to hold the felt down, increase the support for the fascia and reduce the runoff on the last row of tiles? if so, should i resort back to nails in the last row of tiles or get clips to hold them down onto the new batten?

My second question is about the felt that has fallen completely away between the gable end and the last rafter - what is the best way to resecure this, baring in mind the dry verg has been installed by cowboys who just used the original battens and installed 100mm screws to hold the dry verge sections in place (now rotted)

All advice and help gratefully accepted!
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OP,
Given the delapidated state of things you would do best to surround the semi's with scaffolding, and then work around the roof - not just the rear elevation?
Whatever, dont attempt to work on the verges without scaff. And always work with another adult present.
I wouldn't go buying materials until you have a much clearer idea of what you need.

The eaves tile course shown will have to be pushed higher before sliding in a fresh roll of felt.
The last batten shown will have to be lifted.
Two vertical (maybe even three) lines of verge tiles will have to be stripped back from eaves to ridge.

You need to remove as much defective & incorrectly installed work as possible - & then post pics of what you've exposed.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have taken the second course of tiles out and exposed the felt overlap. Its not the best job… not helped by the joists for the ceiling of the attic conversions in both houses protruding through through the felt having been pushed out too far.

The immediate concerns are the ends of the battens have rotted through, instead of extending the battens when installing the dry verge they just used 150mm screws which probably split the wood. On the other end, they just stuck screws into the old mortar so the dry verge was not even held!
The other concern is the felt has dropped off the gable end leaving a gap a fair way up which birds have made worse as the dry verge wasn’t capped off properly - not helped by no fixings in the last section.

It appears they didn’t feel it necessary to remove the old fascia nails and just hammered them flat into the rafter ends, a few of which are now rotting.

The plan now is replace the first run of felt with membrane, and replace the battens so they correctly overhang for the dry verge to be fixed. I’m not sure whether to fix a vertical batten on the gable end to secure the new membrane or just rely on the horizontal battens instead. I’ve also got some c16 2x4 treated timber to sister some new rafter tails on the worst ones, then screw some full fascia offcuts on the tails where needed to even up the fascia run and provide some more support for pins to secure it (only 1 nail had been used in the 75mm rafter ends before - half of which where not even in the rafters as they were too high)

The front felt and battens where replaced earlier this year as it was rotten so that’s ok thankfully.
 
I'm sorry to see this level of issue @bigi I've seen some horror stories with dry verge jobs.

I've just caped my fascia and really think I should had done eaves protection but after 25 years without it the existing fascia was only aged due to UV/weather exposure, the felt was "ok"
 
Thanks - i expected it to be as bit rough, but this is next level. the hollow soffit was only held in place with silicons sealant at the wall side ; it just fella away with very little effort, just a proper mess! I don't like doing half a job, so was always planning to fit support trays with integrated vents etc, and guessed a run of felt would need doing - just the securing of the felt to the gable ends is concerning me now tbh! I'm just glad there are no nesting birds in there now - think there's half a bucket of old nests pulled out so far - and i was wrong about wasps being in there!

a few highlights so far..... :)
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Thanks - i expected it to be as bit rough, but this is next level. the hollow soffit was only held in place with silicons sealant at the wall side ; it just fella away with very little effort, just a proper mess! I don't like doing half a job, so was always planning to fit support trays with integrated vents etc, and guessed a run of felt would need doing - just the securing of the felt to the gable ends is concerning me now tbh! I'm just glad there are no nesting birds in there now - think there's half a bucket of old nests pulled out so far - and i was wrong about wasps being in there!

a few highlights so far..... :)
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All is fixable once you have removed about four courses of tiles and the rotten felt. You can sister the lower part of the rafter ends with healthy timber as well as rebuild the soffit and cradling. The verge caps would need a fair bit of graft and tile removal too.
Roof line cowboys are only short term fixers and chancers. They care not once the bill is paid.





 

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