Replacing heatlink with heatmiser rf switch v2

[Chuci24]

In my property we have a Worcester bosch 8000 life system boiler and kingspan Albion 300l unvented cylinder.

We have a two zone ufh heating downstairs. 2 neostats v2 wired to a ufh4 and a neohub gen 3 so I can control via the app.

We also have a nest heatlink and wireless plug in Gem 3 thermostat. The nest controls my central heating and my hot water heating for the unvented cylinder.

Both systems work independently. Eg I can turn on only my ufh heating from via the neo app. Or I can turn on just the hot water from Google home or the ch. Or both. Or turn all 3 on via the two apps

This all works fine but I want to switch to a single heatmiser solution. I've been told I need to replace the heatlink with an rf switch v2 and the thermostat with a neo air v3. Is this the best solution or is there a better one?

If it is the best solution should it be completely straightforward process for any heating engineer to take the wires out the heatlink and put them in the corresponding terminals of the rf switch v2 or does some extra things need doing?

 

[ericmark]

The problem is, although we all know most central heating boilers require analogue control, for years we have used digital i.e. on/off.

Both will work, but analogue tends to be better suited to gain the latent heat from the boilers flue. I have not seen an analogue method to heat DHW with a boiler, my immersion heater is analogue, but boilers tend to be on or off as far as DHW goes.

In real terms so called analogue, is often digital, but it switches so little at a time, the boiler sees it as analogue, so with 10 motorised valves, each valve changes so little it behaves like analogue.

But the engineer has spend time in university to get his degree to be called an engineer, and he uses his skill to work out if what you have will work in an economical way, any Tom, Dick or Plumber can make it work, you are paying some one to make it work efficiently, which will likely mean some changes, but to work out those changes on a forum, is near impossible.

Ask the engineer what to do, that's his job, don't tell him what to do, you must have a problem that's why you want to make changes, tell him what the problem is, not what you think will fix it.

 

[CountryFan]

It seems the best solution, as I think what you have is Heatmiser for ufh, and I only see 3 zone valves, so can't see one for the ufh - or is that from one zone and the other controls the house?

 

[Chuci24]

It seems the best solution, as I think what you have is Heatmiser for ufh, and I only see 3 zone valves, so can't see one for the ufh - or is that from one zone and the other controls the house?

There are three Honeywell motorised valves.
I have two independent UFH zones, but both are supplied through the same UFH manifold, which has its own circulation pump, mixing valve and individual thermal actuators controlled by a Heatmiser UH4.

My understanding is that the three Honeywell valves serve the radiators, hot-water cylinder and UFH respectively, with the two UFH zones controlled separately at the manifold.
All three main circuits can independently call for heat from the boiler, so the system appears to be an S-plan-plus arrangement.