• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Replacing my programmer

Joined
4 Feb 2004
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi everyone - my first post, so please be kind... :D

My central heating programmer seems to have crapped out. When I checked, it had a low battery warning light, so presumably it wasn't receiving power and had been running off the battery for a few days. A day later and it's now completely dead. I've checked all the fuses and they're all ok, so I'm presuming it's a problem with the unit itself.

My question is this - do central heating programmers have standard wall-plates with standard wiring configurations? If so, then I can presumably buy a new programmer and fit it to the existing wall-plate, without having to make any new connections. I've recently moved house and don't have any instructions for the programmer so can't easily identify the wiring scheme.

Any help greatly appreciated...
 
Most modern ones do use a common back plate and wiring connections, but without seeing it or knowing what you have it is impossible to confirm for certain.
 
Thanks Dave

At work at the moment, so don't have the details, but will find out when I get home. The boiler was installed 3 years ago according to the documentation that I got from the previous owners, but I'm not sure if the programmer was changed at the same time.

Do you think it's likely that the fault lies with the unit? The boiler has power and like I say, I've checked the fuses and they all seem OK. Only other thing I can think is that there's a problem with the actual wiring (dodgy connection somewhere maybe).
 
Could be a loose wire or if the programmer has been knocked it just may of detached from the back plate slightly.

Try removing, checking wiring and refitting to back plate. The battery symbol will go off it is fixed.
 
Checked the wiring in the backplate and the junction box and couldn't find anything wrong. The wiring configuration was on the back of the programmer (doh!), and I bought another one on the off-chance and was lucky enough that it had the same configuration. Fitted that but had the same problem, so it looks like it's not the programmer that's at fault.

It looks like it's picking up the live via the boiler supply, and I know that's working as the boiler is on. So, I'm starting to think it's a problem with the connection at the boiler end - maybe an internal fuse or poor connection? Don't want to start opening the boiler up so might be time to call an engineer...
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top