Replacing part of plastic soil pipe

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Hi All,
I'm currently in the process of ripping the kitchen out of a house I have not long moved in to.
Whilst doing so I have found a leak from a Boss glued to the side of the plastic soil pipe. Water is leaking out of the part where it is glued on. I will not need this Boss when I install the new kitchen as it went to a washing machine, washing machine will be connected via a connector under the sink.
The problem I have is how do I go about fixing the leak? After the kitchen is installed I will not have access to the lower part of the soil stack so I want a good permanent repair.
The pipe that the boss is attached to goes in to a join before going in to the ground at one end and the other end connects to a long boss pipe before continuing up to the bathroom above, so I was thinking of changing this part of pipe. But presumably you would need to lift the whole soil stack up to do this, which sounds like a nightmare.
Therefore has anyone got any suggestions as to the best way to fix this?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Whitespirit66]

If you can cut a section out of the stack, you may be able to fit a socket on the bottom piece of pipe, slide a slip socket up the upper piece of pipe, and put a new piece of soil pipe in the gap. Then slide the slip joint down to join the bottom of the original pipe to the top of the new bit. You won't then need to remove the stack.

Hope this makes sense.

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http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...cket&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&isSearch=true

 

[Richard C]

You will indeed have to lift the stack to replace the section of pipe but a slip coupling may help when putting it back together. I have done one using a car trolley jack before but the joints can be difficult to separate & you may damage the O ring in the boss pipe so be sure to have a new one to hand. Watch out for the roof flashing if it’s externally vented, the one I did was internally vented so there was no problem with damaging it.

You may get away with applying more solvent around the boss & blanking off or even removing the boss completely, making a patch from a section of pipe & sticking that over the hole with solvent weld & a strap. Difficult to gauge without seeing it but if it works it will save you some hassle.

 

[TicklyT]

If you use two slip couplings there's no need to lift the stack. Just cut the stack at two convenient points, where there's room to remove a section sideways.

The cut section need not include the piece you want to replace. Once you have removed a section you should have enough 'elbow room' to pull the leaking piece out of it's socket, replace it with a new length of pipe (and fit a new seal in the socket if necessary).
Fit the slip couplings to the section that you cut out, and replace it.

When using slip couplings, clearly mark half the length of the coupling on the end of each pipe so you can set them in the correct positions over your cuts.

 

[Richard C]

If you use two slip couplings there's no need to lift the stack. Just cut the stack at two convenient points, where there's room to remove a section sideways.

Yes that will work if you have enough room but may involve cutting the upper pipe above the existing boss.

 

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Thanks for everyones suggestions. Although I am struggling to see how it would work. Apologies, maybe I am missing something. Never had to do these before.

To give more information the pipe goes in to a socket about 40mm above ground level. Presumably in to the rest bend under ground. The other end of pipe has a socket on it and this connects to a Boss. The length of pipe is about 450mm and its on this length that a boss is glued on.

I presume when the pipes are all connected together they should all hit their "stops" to make a good join.
I understand that cutting the pipe would allow enough room to remove the leaking part, but struggling to see how you can get it all back together without lifting the soil stack.

Does the slip coupling not have a stop inside so you can slide this over the pipe completely?

Sorry for not understanding.

 

[Burnerman]

Slip couplings don't have any stops inside them - they just 'slip' up or down the pipe as you wish.
They are available as brass compression types for water, too.
A bloomin' godsend if you ask me!
John

 

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Many thanks for clearing that up. It was me being stupid!

I think that is probably the best way to fix my problem.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

 

[Richard C]

I presume when the pipes are all connected together they should all hit their "stops" to make a good join.

Not so, not hitting the stop will not affect the joint; in fact you mark the pipe 4/5mm short of the stop & only push it in as far as the mark to allow for expansion.

Does the slip coupling not have a stop inside so you can slide this over the pipe completely?

You’ve got it in one, that’s exactly how it works. After cutting out the length of pipe you need to replace, cut a length of pipe 8mm shorter then the gap. Mark a distance equal to ½ the slip coupling length on the top end of the new pipe & from the top of the old pipe which goes into the floor. Fit one slip coupling to the pipe coming down from the ceiling & fit the other coupling over the lower end of the new bit of pipe. Insert the new pipe in position & slide the couplings down over the top of the new pipe & the original pipe in the floor until you reach your marks; fit the coupling this way as it’s easier to knock them down into position rather than trying to force them upwards; job done.

 

[Richard C]

Pipped at the post

 

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Thanks Richard C for the explanation, that helps a lot.

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions, Makes me feel a bit better as this house (my first) has been a bit of a nightmare, I have found loads of things "bodged". I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and a bit of a perfectionist which doesn't help. Things are getting there though.

Thanks to everyone.
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[Richard C]

I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and a bit of a perfectionist which doesn't help. Things are getting there though.

Not many of those around these days. Me also in a previous life but not for the last 9 years; that’s another story . It does tend to make you a bit of a perfectionist but I don’t see that as a bad thing, it will carry you in good stead.

 

[Nige F]

Proper engineer then you`ll have to taper the ends of the soil pipe to get the fittings to slip on - but not tapered like you do on a lathe - more like rubbed with a rasp then lubed

 

[Nige F]

I presume when the pipes are all connected together they should all hit their "stops" to make a good join.
Sorry for not understanding.

not quite - an expansion gap should be left - but nearly always isn`t

 

[Richard C]

Proper engineer then

Yup & well qualified to boot.

you`ll have to taper the ends of the soil pipe to get the fittings to slip on - but not tapered like you do on a lathe - more like rubbed with a rasp then lubed

Yes, sorry I forgot that bit.

not quite - an expansion gap should be left - but nearly always isn`t

Not so, not hitting the stop will not affect the joint; in fact you mark the pipe 4/5mm short of the stop & only push it in as far as the mark to allow for expansion.