Replacing solenoid coil on Honeywell V4700E gas cntrl valve

[alan2525]

Coldest day of the year so far and problems with lukewarm radiators and hot water. Boiler fires up and runs for around 7 minutes prior to dropping back to a pilot light. Have tested the over heat thermostat and main thermostat, problem appears to be the solenoid on the gas control valve.

Gas Control valve is a green button Honeywell V4700E

The solenoid is 240 volt SOLENIOD COIL V4700E GAS VALVE 45900406-003

Just not sure how to remove the old solenoid from the gas control valve, anyone replaced one of these parts before?

 

[Boilerman2]

if you look between the coil and the wrap around metal bracket, you will see a thin metal spring plate, prise this out with a small screw driver & long noze pliers, once out the coil will lift off the solenoid stem complete with the metal bracket. slide the old coil out, stick the new one in, and refit in reverse order

 

[FrankE]

Assume the O/P managed with a good torch and a bit of jiggery pokery.

Having similar problem but the solenoid valve is only straining because of poor mating of the thermocouple.
What a mission trying to get a thermocouple to electrically and mechanically mate with a V4700E 1007
The first a universal, gas valve end fits well mechanically but doesnt mate electrically.
Back to wholesaler got another T/C holds the valve end in, it mates well electrically, wrong thread on slotted bush but capillary is too fat to take the proper sized slotted bush. D'Oh!
Back to wholesaler again this time Q309As are in stock (though 2788), this time actual Honeywells. It mates electrically, (hold it in no solenoid noise, burners fires straight away.) holding bush isn;t slotted, wrong thread and bush I/D too wee to fit over flattened section of capillary to let me fit the proper sized slotted bush..
Aaargh. Will be needing a new solenoid at this rate.
?

 

[Agile]

Frank, whilst I appreciate that you are not a registered gas engineer, you are not supposed to give advice on gas matters on an open forum.

The OP does not say if he measured the voltage on the solenoid to see if it remained when the gas valve went off. he never made any further postings so we will never know what happened. As they may go open circuit most solenoids either operate or they dont.

Tony

 

[tamz]

Assume the O/P managed with a good torch and a bit of jiggery pokery.

Having similar problem but the solenoid valve is only straining because of poor mating of the thermocouple.
What a mission trying to get a thermocouple to electrically and mechanically mate with a V4700E 1007
The first a universal, gas valve end fits well mechanically but doesnt mate electrically.
Back to wholesaler got another T/C holds the valve end in, it mates well electrically, wrong thread on slotted bush but capillary is too fat to take the proper sized slotted bush. D'Oh!
Back to wholesaler again this time Q309As are in stock (though 2788), this time actual Honeywells. It mates electrically, (hold it in no solenoid noise, burners fires straight away.) holding bush isn;t slotted, wrong thread and bush I/D too wee to fit over flattened section of capillary to let me fit the proper sized slotted bush..
Aaargh. Will be needing a new solenoid at this rate.
?

You shoulda just paid someone to change it (sorted first time because he knows what he is doing) and service the boiler while he was there. Would have cost you less than the petrol, time spent and inconvenience of getting it wrong.

PS Don't (generally) take advice from the guys at trade counters. They just sell the stuff and haven't a clue.