Reposted from Building Regulations and Planning Permission

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This is my first post, the existing wiring to my kitchen is a disaster and possibly dangerous, as i am fitting a new kitchen soon anyway I intend to upgrade/replace the wiring.

I am hoping that you would have a look at my wiring plan and come up with suggestions/ideas about it, so I don't look a complete idiot in front of the BCO!

Any help is appreciated.

I have called building control and intend to start work proper in may.

 
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What size cable are you using for the oven ?
Don't forget your RCD with regards to socket outlets and buried cables.
Is your CU suitable for a 40A circuit ?
Is your bonding up to scratch ?
 
I was going to use 6mm cable for the oven, both circuits will be on rcbs. all the switches will go above the counter top and are away from the taps.

what is the rulling for washing machines though I need to run power and water there, do you have any guidance?
 
and actually thats a good point about the bonding, there isn't any that i can see currently.
 
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If the BCO is doing his job correctly then he should insist on your bonding being up to scratch. With regard to the socket for washing m/c - just position it sensibly, not under or behind a hose tap. Maybe even consider in the cupboard next to it on the sturdy part of the unit.
 
...the BCO
Have you checked what your council's attitude is to DIY electrical work?

If they are one of the delinquent ones you may be forced to choose between not notifying and just getting an electrician to do the work anyway.. :(
 
I spoke to one today who seemed okay with it, he said that I needed to get them in once during the installation, and again for them to test it and sign it off, does this sound right?
 
Yes, but make sure they don't try and charge you extra for testing it. They are supposed to incorporate this within their one off fee !
 
Well, at face value it sounds right but we've seen a few tales of people notifying their BCO and subsequently being told they need a sparks to sign it off (which of course the sparks wont do since they didnt install it).

Not much you can do except ask the specific question - will they arrange for someone (at their expense) to test and sign off the work?
 
Right, just been down building control, and they are saying that in essence I need a certified competant person to do the work, Either that or I get an electrician to sign it off, is that right or have I misunderstood.

big fat sad face here, mind you for £150 they'll let me move the door I want to.. bargain.
 
they cannot make you employ a registered sparky if you don't want to, and they cannot make you pay for your own I&T if you are paying the full price for notification.. it's included in the price..
I suggest that you go back to them with a copy of the note ( someone will post a link or it may be in the wiki already ) with you that says that they are responsible for testing and inspection at no extra cost to you..
unless they are offering you a discounted price on the notification ( as they do for some sparkies and they accept the sparkies own test certs then.. )

heres the ODPM circular that says they cannot charge extra for I&T or make you get your own done at your own expense..
 
The are pulling your plonker :cry:

You will find lots of stories on here of councils trying this on, but they are wrong.

As the law states, you as a householder can either

*Get a spark in who is a member of a competent persons scheme to do all the work and take care of part-p his/herself through their scheme

OR

*Pay the council the notification fee, do the work yourself and then the COUNCIL inspect/test it OR THEY PAY for a spark to do so for them.

Taking your money then insisting that YOU pay for a spark (and they probably insist that the spark is a member of a competent persons' scheme!) to I&T is not on. What's the point in that?

You are completely correct to do the work yourself after having notified - then insist the council I&T at their expense. Good luck. ban-all-sheds and others on here know more about this and will advise on the tricks BC depts try to use...

PS. On a more technical note - 40A is pushing it for a 6mm cable (depending on installation method - best to change down to a B32.
A ring is not a good design for a kitchen (or indeed at all) owing to their being large fixed loads.
Consider running a nonRCD circuit for your boiler and freezer
 
Thank you, you all, I will persivere, I've revised the plan as per your suggestions, but on the boiler/freezer radial, would I be better off using a rcbo?

I am going to call the lincolns building control this again afternoon.



 
Well thats interesting, used the phrase 'my understanding of the regs is..' and they said that it was indeed possible. althought personnally he would strongly recommend an electrician, which is fair comment I suppose.

my written notification is going in this afternoon. Hurray for you guys.
 
PS. On a more technical note - 40A is pushing it for a 6mm cable (depending on installation method - best to change down to a B32.
A ring is not a good design for a kitchen (or indeed at all) owing to their being large fixed loads.
Consider running a nonRCD circuit for your boiler and freezer

Or increase the size of your cable, depending on the load
 

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