Thanks Burnerman - switch replaced, job's a good 'un!
£4 inc. p and p.
£4 inc. p and p.
Ryobi Petrol Hedgecutters - any good?
- Thread starter Brigadier
- Start date
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Still going..........
And no Burnerman - slack #ss here didn't grease the gears!
Keep the intake free of leaves, oil the cutters, replace the switch (£4) if it fails...........and have two-stroke-smelling fun for years
And no Burnerman - slack #ss here didn't grease the gears!
Keep the intake free of leaves, oil the cutters, replace the switch (£4) if it fails...........and have two-stroke-smelling fun for years
Spoke too soon.....
Cut 99% of front hedge last Sunday morning. Switching cutters off every few mins, to move hop-up etc.
Then, pull-cord wouldn't move - fully in, and wedged.
Looks like a trip to the menders, or a bit of diy!
Cut 99% of front hedge last Sunday morning. Switching cutters off every few mins, to move hop-up etc.
Then, pull-cord wouldn't move - fully in, and wedged.
Looks like a trip to the menders, or a bit of diy!
Its a simple job to remove the recoil cover - 3 screws I think. At that point, see if you can spin the flywheel fan to check for engine seizure. If thats ok, the fault is in the recoil somewhere - not too sure where though!
John
John
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Well,
spent a jolly couple of hours yesterday in the garage, dismantling the thing.
Blades off - they're moving freely.
Gearbox apart - was still moving fine, but I've cleaned and greased it anyway.
Freed (don't know what it is called - it has a looped spring in it) by hand - quite stiff to turn. Starter cord then pulled, albeit with very great effort. However, after reassembling, it was wedged fast again. Same result after second try.
So I expect it is the recoil mechanism, although I an jiggered if I can figure out how to get into it.
Thanks for help anyway, but unless I have another greasy couple of hours to spare, it is a trip to the menders!
spent a jolly couple of hours yesterday in the garage, dismantling the thing.
Blades off - they're moving freely.
Gearbox apart - was still moving fine, but I've cleaned and greased it anyway.
Freed (don't know what it is called - it has a looped spring in it) by hand - quite stiff to turn. Starter cord then pulled, albeit with very great effort. However, after reassembling, it was wedged fast again. Same result after second try.
So I expect it is the recoil mechanism, although I an jiggered if I can figure out how to get into it.
Thanks for help anyway, but unless I have another greasy couple of hours to spare, it is a trip to the menders!
To get to the recoil mechanism, the entire cutter gearbox has to be removed from the bottom of the engine.
This reveals the drive gear from the engine that turns the cutters, and behind that is the centrifugal clutch.
Bloomin' complex for such a small machine, but the problem will probably be getting someone to repair it....certainly the horticultural outlets up here won't touch them because its not cost effective time wise.
John
This reveals the drive gear from the engine that turns the cutters, and behind that is the centrifugal clutch.
Bloomin' complex for such a small machine, but the problem will probably be getting someone to repair it....certainly the horticultural outlets up here won't touch them because its not cost effective time wise.
John
Right,
Had a go yesterday, as I was off...
Having fetched (almost) everything apart before, I had determined that the blades were not jammed, and neither was the gearbox. However, I could not get to the bowels of the recoil mechanism.
Yesterday, I took a couple of plastic bits off, and got to the crankcase cover, which I duly removed. Et voila!
Bits of metal scattered inside - it appears that the bearings at the pivot of the piston arm (non-barrel end, the bit attached to the counterweight) had given up the ghost, causing the arm to spin off-centre, and gouge itself on the side of the housing. Causing the jam.
I freed it easily enough, but even rotating the counterweight by hand caused the pivot end to "ride" up the shaft, jamming again after a revolution or two.
As I cannot get the remains of the bearing housing to budge, nor the counterweight from the crankshaft (despite removing the circlip), it is definitely a mender's job.
Given what you said before John, about the economics of repair, I will present the thing to the mender in bits, to save them having to disassemble it themselves
Thanks for the advice so far
Had a go yesterday, as I was off...
Having fetched (almost) everything apart before, I had determined that the blades were not jammed, and neither was the gearbox. However, I could not get to the bowels of the recoil mechanism.
Yesterday, I took a couple of plastic bits off, and got to the crankcase cover, which I duly removed. Et voila!
Bits of metal scattered inside - it appears that the bearings at the pivot of the piston arm (non-barrel end, the bit attached to the counterweight) had given up the ghost, causing the arm to spin off-centre, and gouge itself on the side of the housing. Causing the jam.
I freed it easily enough, but even rotating the counterweight by hand caused the pivot end to "ride" up the shaft, jamming again after a revolution or two.
As I cannot get the remains of the bearing housing to budge, nor the counterweight from the crankshaft (despite removing the circlip), it is definitely a mender's job.
Given what you said before John, about the economics of repair, I will present the thing to the mender in bits, to save them having to disassemble it themselves
Thanks for the advice so far
From what you describe Mr.B it would seem that the big end bearing has given up and what you see are bits of the needle rollers that form the thing.
A picture would be great, but if its what you say its really the end of the line for this machine, economically.
I can't think why the bearing has failed - if its a lubrication issue the piston and barrel are always first to suffer.
John
A picture would be great, but if its what you say its really the end of the line for this machine, economically.
I can't think why the bearing has failed - if its a lubrication issue the piston and barrel are always first to suffer.
John
Thanks for taking the time John Will post a pic when I am next not at work.
Needle bearings describe it nicely. Had a quick trawl on the tinterweb - even including for replacing the piston (at £15), the various bearings, circlips, and crankcase gasket would come in at less than £30 in total. Apart from paying a mender to fit the bits, that has surely got to work out cheaper than £170 replace with new (last price seen at Screwfix)?
Will post a pic when I am next not at work.Needle bearings describe it nicely. Had a quick trawl on the tinterweb - even including for replacing the piston (at £15), the various bearings, circlips, and crankcase gasket would come in at less than £30 in total. Apart from paying a mender to fit the bits, that has surely got to work out cheaper than £170 replace with new (last price seen at Screwfix)?
Well, that price seems incredibly low so if you can get the bits for that, then so be it!
I get my bits from Augmented Agents Ltd, which I may have mentioned before.
Do lets know how you get on!
John
I get my bits from Augmented Agents Ltd, which I may have mentioned before.
Do lets know how you get on!
John
OK, gasket, bearings, retaining ring, and piston ordered - £30 inc vat and p&p.
I just can't get the big end
to slide far enough upwards to free it from the counterweight - therefore, I can't replace the bearings, or piston, as it currently stands.Counterweight is well-wedged onto the crankshaft - even after having removed the circlip, it won't budge.
A thought I don't want to countenance is (if I could free the counterweight from the crankshaft) would be to drop the crankshaft out from below (no doubt involving more disassembly!), then sliding the counterweight out, and dropping it off the big end that way. But that is even more taking apart, and I can't budge the counterweight.
Any ideas John? The stymie of a couple of well-stuck parts appears to be all that separates me from a sense of smugness!
Errr strewth
I'm afraid the crankshaft assembly must come out of the other side (flywheel side) complete with its main bearing......this should allow the piston / connecting rod assembly to slide off the crank pin and allow the piston to withdraw from the barrel.
Thats all I can think of....I don't think its likely that the crankshaft assembly would be pressed into place in situ - it would be very hard to balance it if it was.
I know the counterweight is separate from the crankshaft itself and the two pieces are coupled together with a 'retaining ring'.
Truthfully, I havent had one of these particular engines so far down before, so you are ahead of me with this one!
John
I'm afraid the crankshaft assembly must come out of the other side (flywheel side) complete with its main bearing......this should allow the piston / connecting rod assembly to slide off the crank pin and allow the piston to withdraw from the barrel.
Thats all I can think of....I don't think its likely that the crankshaft assembly would be pressed into place in situ - it would be very hard to balance it if it was.
I know the counterweight is separate from the crankshaft itself and the two pieces are coupled together with a 'retaining ring'.
Truthfully, I havent had one of these particular engines so far down before, so you are ahead of me with this one!
John
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I keep getting suckered into buying Ryobi stuff. Mainly as a consequence of the OAP deals at B and Q. (not that i qualify but my dear old mother does) So far the hedge trimmer is the only thing still running. And without tempting fate after 3 years and an acre of garden surrounded by hedges; running well. The petrol chain saw seized up in less than a year and the petrol strimmer is more trouble than its worth. One out of three aint bad!!!
Usually its all down to lubrication on a two stroke.....a fully synthetic oil can be diluted to 50:1 but a safer bet is to go towards 25:1......the machine will smoke a bit but thats all.
Ryobi can be a pain because of the huge plastic mouldings that they use, so the simplest work often involves a complete strip down.
The other huge pain is that a special tool is needed to set the carburettors. Its called a 'pac man' tool because of its round profile with a tiny notch in it. Try buying one of these in UK!
John
Ryobi can be a pain because of the huge plastic mouldings that they use, so the simplest work often involves a complete strip down.
The other huge pain is that a special tool is needed to set the carburettors. Its called a 'pac man' tool because of its round profile with a tiny notch in it. Try buying one of these in UK!
John
Well,
getting the big end off the crankshaft has defeated all who have looked at it (including two mechanic friends, one of whom was stripping down 2-stroke engines before he could walk).
So, I bought an identical manufacturer-refurbed one (couldn't get a Stihl at a reasonable price). That way, I've got a sh#t-load of spares
Out of interest, I might just saw the con-rod through, and see where that gets me.....
getting the big end off the crankshaft has defeated all who have looked at it (including two mechanic friends, one of whom was stripping down 2-stroke engines before he could walk).
So, I bought an identical manufacturer-refurbed one (couldn't get a Stihl at a reasonable price). That way, I've got a sh#t-load of spares
Out of interest, I might just saw the con-rod through, and see where that gets me.....
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