Salus iT500rx Receiver

[Jwz12]

I’m looking at the S & Y plan wiring diagrams for the iT500, and the way that mine is currently wired doesn’t match either one exactly - it seems to be a mix of both, but mostly like the Y plan.

However, on mine I have a brown wire from the motorised valve to CH NO, a grey wire from the motorised valve to AUX COM and another grey wire in AUX NC, which is different to diagram below.

 

[CountryFan]

Might be best writing down what goes where, along with the photo, shouldn't be too difficult

 

[stem]

The main difference is the way that the three terminals that require a live connection have been linked together [CH COM / L / AUX COM] which is different from the diagram you posted. Hive has these links made internally so would not be required anyway. As @CountryFan always take a clear photograph or make a diagram of what wires go where before changing anything.

To replace the Salus with a Hive Dual Channel:

Remove the grey link between CH COM & L (Check this is correct it's difficult to be 100% sure from looking at a photo)
Remove the brown link between CH COM & AUX COM (Check this is correct it's difficult to be 100% sure from looking at a photo)

Once these wires are removed, then the remaining wires that are left, simply move from the Salus terminals to the Hive terminals that have exactly the same function.

Salus CH NC - Not used
Salus CH COM - Empty once links removed
Salus CH NO = Hive CH ON (4)

Salus L = Hive (L)
Salus N = Hive (N)

Salus AUX NC - Hive HW OFF (1)
Salus AUX COM - Remaining grey wire after the brown link has been removed goes to Hive (L)
Salus AUX NO = Hive HW ON (3)

 

[Jwz12]

That’s extremely helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.

Do you know if I can get rid of the terminal block in my photo? It connects the orange wire from the Drayton valve to a black wire that goes to the wiring centre and from here to the boiler. Another black wire is connected to the same point in the wiring centre, and that goes to HW NO.

Could I just connect the orange wire straight into HW NO in the hive, as they are connected in the wiring centre anyway, or is there a reason they’ve done it this way?

Thank you.

 

[stem]

I think you may not have traced the connections correctly. The orange wire from the motorised valve is made 'live' when the motorised valve moves to the 'Central Heating only' position. Other than the boiler, Its other connection should be the Hot Water Cylinder Thermostats 'Call for Heat'. [not HW NO]

For DIY, unless you know exactly where every wire goes and what it does, it's best to not change anything unnecessarily. If it goes wrong trouble shooting over an online forum can be challenging.

 

[Jwz12]

That’s strange. I’ve double-checked with my DMM on continuity and the orange wire is connected to the black wire I took out of HW NO. However, like you said, I don’t want to change anything unnecessarily, I only wanted to get rid of terminal block if it wasn’t required.

 

[stem]

That's strange. I’ve double-checked with my DMM on continuity and the orange wire is connected to the black wire I took out of HW NO.

Not really strange. If the hot water cylinder thermostat is 'calling for heat' (i.e. on) then the cylinder thermostat will provide a live to start the boiler, meaning that electrically speaking the orange wire and HW NO will be electrically connected via the switch inside the cylinder thermostat but only in this specific situation.

However, when the cylinder thermostat moves to 'satisfied' (i.e. off) the switch will open the connection and the two will no longer be electrically connected. Which is a completely different from the orange wire being permanently connected to HW NO.

So, I think now, you will see why I said.

Unless you know exactly where every wire goes and what it does, it's best to not change anything unnecessarily.

 

[Jwz12]

Yes, I kept everything the same, followed your wiring advice and fitted the Hive on Friday afternoon.

I’m happy to report that everything is working well and the Salus is no more. It was fitted to this property when we moved in, so it must be around 10 years old, but I never did like the controls on the touchscreen unit. For me, the Hive is much easier to use and was straight-forward to setup as well.

I’m new to this site, but would like to thank the members who helped in this thread, especially Stem. My Dad was my go-to person for everything DIY, but unfortunately he passed away recently and I didn’t inherit his skills, so have been a bit lost with jobs around the house etc. So your help with this particular issue is a big weight off my mind and I’m extremely grateful for you taking the time to help me and others.

Best regards,
J

 

[CountryFan]

I’m new to this site, but would like to thank the members who helped in this thread, especially Stem.

Yeah he’s excellent, understands electrics and wiring heating systems better than me as he’s more experienced. I have only really dealt with combi’s.

My Dad was my go-to person for everything DIY, but unfortunately he passed away recently and I didn’t inherit his skills, so have been a bit lost with jobs around the house etc. So your help with this particular issue is a big weight off my mind and I’m extremely grateful for you taking the time to help me and others.

Sorry to hear of this and sorry for your loss.